Why Big Red Diary?
46 notes
2007 Pavillon, Beaune Les EpenottesFeb. 2012
Medium, medium-plus colour. This has a nose that starts with quite a bit of vanilla – it’s also reflected in the early flavours – not my favourite but it just about avoids excess; behind is a raspberry coulee, and very nice that is! In the mouth this has the weight of a 1er cru Epenottes and a good ripe aspect to the fruit which lingers on an understated but fine line of acidity. If told this was a 1er cru from Beaune I don’t expect you’d quibble – though you might reject the barrel vanilla. Over 2-3 hours the unneccessary vanilla make-up fades significantly from both the aromas and flavours but underneath is a wine of excellent value.
2009 Pavillon, Volnay SantenotsOct. 2011
Medium-plus colour. Deep, dark fruit with floral top notes and a hint of mineral – limited width but great top to bottom dimension. Full, rounded and quite sensuous; not too sweet and there is good buffering acidity. Dark fruit tones and a velvet tannin that you have to search for. Long lasting on a mineral note. More challenging than the Bouchard ‘baby Jesus’ today and a better wine for it – the future can look after itself. Super wine and something of a bargain.
2005 Pavillon, Pommard Les RugiensMar. 2011
Aromas offer some authority while remaining rather understated. Fine, ripe tannin. The fresh-face of youth may have gone, but this is flavour-packed and not a bit tight. Super balance and a similar style diminuendo of finish to the 2006, but longer…
2003 Pavillon, Pommard Les RugiensMar. 2011
More evolved aromas that even hint at maturity with a few forest leaves, though for now they are clearly subordinate to the fruit. This is very full, full of tannin too but quite finely grained. There remains a little dryness, but like sand it’s not astringent.
2002 Pavillon, Pommard Les RugiensMar. 2011
Delicate hints of perfume light up the nose, eventually adds herbs too – rather complex. The flavour likewise delivers that same perfumed note together with dried dark fruits well matched to plenty of structure. Super.
2008 Pavillon, Pommard Clos des UrsulinesMar. 2011
More spice and herbs on the nose. Higher-toned flavours, dark fruit brings lots of interest – a lovely burst of flavour in the mid-palate that follows the acidity into the finish.
2009 Pavillon, Pommard Les RugiensMar. 2011
A wide and fine, almost soft nose. Sweet ripe fruit with ripe, slightly grained tannin which seems partly buried. Understated length with a faint astringency.
2008 Pavillon, Pommard Les RugiensMar. 2011
Higher toned and more perfumed than the 09. Plenty of acidity, good tannin has a little astringent ‘grab’. Lingering, impressively precise flavours. The 09 is more sumptuous, this has more detail.
2007 Pavillon, Pommard Les RugiensMar. 2011
Actually harvested on the same date as the 03.There’s a little more aromatic density if not a more obvious ripeness than the 08, eventually some precise dark berries. This is concentrated and fresh, not obviously of the vintage. A real success.
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