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9 notes
2008 Niellon Michel, Chassagne-Montrachet Clos de la MaltroyeMar. 2012
Medium golden. Plenty of sweet toasted bread, brioche indeed – (very) nice as it is, it does rather smother any obvious Chassagne-ness. There is a decent whack of concentration though the personality is reasonably direct rather than round. Just about perfect acidity accentuated a little agrumes fruit and a finishing sweet note from the barrel that reminds you of the brioche nose, pus a little toffee. Initially, despite how delicious it is, I find the oak influence is obscuring the vineyard; given about 1 hour your mouth starts to water with plenty of mineral flavour that actually does hint to Chassagne. Despite the caveats, simply delicious.
2008 Niellon Michel, Chassagne-Montrachet Les ChenevottesFeb. 2012
A faint creme brûlée floats over green and yellow citrus notes – you have to wait some time before the classic Chassagne green herbs finally appear – it’s a tight and ripe at the core. The entry is silky but quite understated, indeed indifferent, but the mid-palate just launches you into the next dimension with minerals, agrumes fruit, mouth-watering acidity and really super intensity. You’re left with a long line of finishing flavour. This is really super.
2006 Niellon Michel, Chassagne-MontrachetJul. 2008
Medium-pale yellow. The nose is a full dose of medium-toast oak and additional quite savoury notes – if you give it a couple of hours there’s a little baked apple fruit. The taste is concentrated and likewise savoury and initially wood-dominated. Decent acidity pushes the length a little further – and it is long. I’d like my glass to show a little more fruit, but this has the potential to be a good Chassagne, just leave it a couple of years.
2005 Niellon Michel, Chassagne-Montrachet Clos de la MaltroyeApr. 2007
Medium-pale yellow. The nose starts deep with plenty of fresh bread and sweet pear, slowly tightens and becomes higher toned. The palate is fat and full – almost grand cru ‘oily’ – with super acidity, and penetrating intensity that bursts with lime/citrus fruit. Considerable yet understated length that shows just a hint of cream. In one word; excellent.
2002 Niellon Michel, Chassagne-MontrachetJul. 2006
Pale-medium yellow, some crystallised solids in the bottom of the bottle. A reticent nose with very faint smoky caramel – needs swirling to release citrus-infected fruit. The palate has width, depth and a burst of interest that follows the acidity. Seems a little more austere than about one year ago, but it’s infused with plenty of material
2001 Niellon Michel, Chassagne-MontrachetJul. 2006
Medium yellow. The nose majors on depth – slightly oak influenced – and little else despite time in the glass. The wine is concentrated, with a citrussy intensity on the mid-palate, but always remains absolutely linear. The acidity has an edge of harshness but contributes well to the good length. Like the 2002, this was drinking much better last year – that lift of sweetness is now gone – I would let these rest in the cellar for a couple of years now.
2002 Niellon Michel, Chassagne-MontrachetNov. 2005
Medium-pale yellow. Nicely forward nose of well integrated oak and pineapple. Quite dense, but there’s good balance to this wine, the ripeness of the fruit giving quite a sweet complexion – really enjoyed.
2001 Niellon Michel, Chassagne-MontrachetNov. 2005
Medium golden colour. In contrast to the 2002 this is much more reticent on the nose but offers a much more complex mix. The density is almost to the same level as the 2002, though this time it’s delivered in a much more understated way, perhaps a more silky delivery too. Again nicely balanced and very tasty.
1996 Niellon Michel, Chassagne-Montrachet La MaltroieJul. 2005
Medium yellow colour. A ripe nose which grows and grows in stature – super. Wider palate than many, with a sweet core of fruit, hints of honey too. Super acidity. This is a lovely bottle.
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