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1996 Leroy (Maison), BourgogneMar. 2011
Medium colour. The nose starts a little disappointingly with something that reminds me of brett – this is backed-up with a metallic taste – my first bottle like this. Time in the glass and the aroma is less overt, eventually showing a baked tart red fruit. In the mouth the metallic taste is transient, leaving a smooth, nicely acidic wine with decent intensity of warm round fruit and a mouth-watering finish. My last bottle was much finer but if brett is the culprit, all or none of my remaining bottles could have it. Still as the character faded this was very drinkable indeed.
1962 Leroy (Maison), MeursaultJul. 2010
Some oxidation for sure but plenty of white-chocolate, truffles and lanolin in the mid-palate and finish – caught just in time – okay not just in time, still alive, just about some warmth in the body but lots of redeeming features!
1995 Leroy (Maison), BourgogneDec. 2009
Medium ruby-red with and edge of salmon pink. Sweet raisin, slightly resinous aromas, eventually a beacon of pure, red berry fruit. In the mouth there’s a warm red fruit base and very good acidity – the texture is plusher than you’d expect for the label. There’s still some grain to the tannin and even a hint of astringency. The finish is medium at best, but overall this is a compelling wine that I’m convinced if served to you blind, you’d be guessing higher appellations. This wine starts with both aromas and flavours of maturity bvut they fade to more primary elements so I’ll try and leave my remaining bottle at least another 5 years.
1996 Leroy (Maison), Bourgogne RougeApr. 2009
Limpid, medium, medium pale ruby red – looks lovely in the glass. The nose is restrained yet finely transparent with clean strawberry, raspberry and cherry impressions. In the mouth it’s a delightful combination of lightness yet intensity, transparency and freshness. Frankly this wine excels, drinking very well now despite still being far from mature. Filigree burgundy that’s more about impression than weight.
1998 Leroy (Maison), Volnay Clos des ChênesDec. 2008
Deep ruby-red colour. The nose is herbal and meaty with background sweetness and quite some sense of maturity. In the mouth there is the rasp of ‘98 tannins, but they are rather a background element. More to the fore is the sweet but freshly packaged fruit – quite some secondary flavour development again with some of that herbal element and lots of sweet and wide mid-palate flavour. Complex and very well balanced with plenty of time on it’s side it’s a world away from 2005/2006’s but that’s no negative. This is actually not bad value for a Leroy and I may indeed buy a couple more for 5-10 years down the line.
1996 Leroy (Maison), Bourgogne RougeApr. 2007
I bought a case of this in ‘98 and that first bottle majored on mouth-puckering acidity; time has worked a little magic. Medium ruby red. The nose is a mix sweet red cherry and not too heavy plum. Nicely textured, this is elegant, again nicely plummy red fruit with very good but certainly not overstated acidity. The finish is understated and interesting. The table finished this bottle in double-quick time! There’s lots of life left in these bottles.
1966 Leroy (Maison), CortonOct. 2006
Medium colour, only a little amber at the rim – belies its 40 years – there’s a healthy dose of ’solids’ in the bottom of my glass so not totally bright. The nose starts wide and quickly gets deeper and deeper, very interesting and not a little ‘glossy’ in aspect. The nose goes much deeper than the Vosne if considerably less spicy and smokey. The first impression is sweetness, just a little bite to the tannin and freshness – squeaky clean in fact. This wine is long, seriously long. I must say it’s hard to pick specifics (it’s always the same with old reds), this is an incredibly impressive wine that went perfectly with the ravioli dish. A timeless wine that given age, quality and provenance, shows good value, though surprisingly I didn’t get the ‘wow’ factor.
1966 Leroy (Maison), Chapelle-ChambertinOct. 2006
Medium colour, like the 66 Corton only a little amber at the rim and also like the Corton, not totally bright. The nose is really wide and interesting, lots of high-toned aspects – perhaps a little lifted – over a base of Gevrey earth. Really perfect, wonderful satin texture. The balance is exceptional, you have to search out the components as they meld together so brilliantly well – nothing sticks out – apart (of-course) for the explosion on the mid palate – this is a dynamite wine – and the super length. This provided the ‘wow’ factor, and did so after following the Latricières! Value is personal, but I see it in spades here.
1997 Leroy (Maison), Bourgogne BlancOct. 2006
Pale golden. The nose shows hints of grapefruit and a faint oxidative note – though certainly not oxidised – together with high-toned alcoholic notes. Some sweetness in the mouth, racy and lithe, quite linear. Good persistence and surprisingly little obvious ‘97 character. Despite showing very little overt fruit character this is a young wine. Interesting and no rush to drink.
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