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6 notes
1998 Laurent Dominique, Gevrey-Chambertin Clos St.JacquesOct. 2010
Medium colour – a hint of salmon pink at the rim. There is a little tilled earth and a wealth of warm and eventually sharp red berries. Initially I though a suggestion of cigarette ash too, but it was transient and replaced with violets, more time brings a little dried leaf. The palate is silky-smooth, softly balanced and still betrays a suggestion of the vintage tannin – but only a suggestion. The flavours build in the mid-palate rather in the manner of a decent Lambrays vintage -subtle yet still impressive – behind remains a depth of dark, oak derived flavour but at this stage of maturity I can deal with it, even if I find it slightly distracting. Overall this is a really great Clos St.Jacques – really great! The next bottle in 3-5 years.
1997 Laurent Dominique, Fixin Les HerveletsNov. 2007
Medium colour. The nose starts a little unusual, green boiled vegetables – asparagus – slowly takes on a more classic pale red nose at the core, actually it was better than it sounds! Quite fresh, though the acidity is a little spiky and penetrating but there’s a mineral edge too. Mouthwatering with a mineral length. Interesting but I wouldn’t buy any…
1999 Laurent Dominique, Pommard La RefèneDec. 2006
Deep ruby-red, this looks like a 2003. Unusual high-toned, estery aromatics. In the mouth this is much fresher than the Ambroise with a really strong floral dimension to the fruit – hard to believe that this is the same appellation as the other wines. I find it as impressive as I found it off-putting; To be honest I couldn’t drink this as the ‘gag-mechanism’ started working because I found it ‘too chemical’ – to be fair some people really liked this – not rated.
2002 Laurent Dominique, Nuits St.Georges Cuvée TraditionJul. 2005
Medium, medium-plus cherry red – no purple highlights. Monsieur Laurent seems to have taken his foot off the accelerator a little when it comes to the oaking of this wine, yes, it’s still a little toasty – medium toast – but the oak mingles well with the fine and creamy red fruit notes, particularly about 1 hour after opening – nice. Very well balanced, excellent acidity and whilst I’d like a hint more density there’s a nice creamy length. I don’t think it told me much about Nuits, but this is almost good and was certainly enjoyed.
1997 Laurent Dominique, Vosne-RomanéeJul. 2003
No mention on the label, but the cork has V.V. embossed on the side – so we’ll assume vieille vignes. Medium-plus ruby colour with just a sign of maturity at the lighter rim. The nose has a residue of sweet toasty oak and a slightly funky note. Given some aeration the funk recedes revealing deep plummy fruit. Bursts across the palate with concentrated fruit, but harsh and prickly acidity. Medium-plus length and nice tannins. Another curate’s egg.
1999 Laurent Dominique, Bourgogne Rouge No.1Mar. 2003
Deep ruby with a cherry edge – this wine has the depth of colour you would expect from a much higher appelation. The nose starts with toasted oak and an almost ‘corky’ note. Given 20 minutes aeration, fortunately the corky note disappears along with much of the oak. What remains is a burnt wood note, a little spice, perhaps cinnamon and resin. Eventually there is also a cooked red fruit note. The palate is certainly quite concentrated with reasonable acidity and very good, fine tannins. At the moment it’s certainly quite hard to get at the fruit due to the wood induced structure. A wine that has been made in a very serious and expensive way, possibly a match for many village wines. I’d say this needs at least 4-5 years to reduce the impact of the wood – should be very interesting to see what the result is.
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