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2002 Lafarge Michel, Volnay Clos du Château des DucsDec. 2010
Darker colour. The nose shows a real depth of darker fruits – very impressive if slightly less pretty than the 09s. There is still some tannin but again lots of depth to the flavours – a profound depth actually. Long, primary fruit flavours in the finish – I’m very impressed.
2007 Lafarge Michel, Volnay SelectionéesDec. 2010
The aromas leap from the glass – perhaps without the fineness and class of the 2009s. They flavours are fuller, fatter and less well defined, yet with and engaging freshness and sweetness. There is good acidity and quite some intensity of flavour – this is rather good.
2002 Lafarge Michel, Volnay Clos du Château des DucsDec. 2010
Darker colour. The nose shows a real depth of darker fruits – very impressive if slightly less pretty than the 09s. There is still some tannin but again lots of depth to the flavours – a profound depth actually. Long, primary fruit flavours in the finish – I’m very impressed.
2009 Lafarge Michel, Bourgogne AligoteDec. 2010
Cuvée Raisin de la Grappe d’Or. From 75 year-old vines.The nose has a lovely width – more fruit than savoury. Round in the mouth, the flavour and concentration slowly creep up on you becoming quite wide in the mid-palate.
2007 Lafarge Michel, Volnay SelectionéesNov. 2010
The aromas leap from the glass – perhaps without the fineness and class of the 2009s. They flavours are fuller, fatter and less well defined, yet with and engaging freshness and sweetness. There is good acidity and quite some intensity of flavour – this is rather good.
1997 Lafarge Michel, Volnay 1er CruFeb. 2010
Day 1. Medium rusty-red colour. Despite a certain 1997 ripeness to the fruit aromas, there is something of a cool edge and plenty of herbal notes – overall it’s ruff and gruff – not a lacy picture of Volnay. The leading edge is the acidity, though behind it the tannin is quite fine. The first flavours have a slight oxidised impression, but the best part of the wine is its extra dimension of very nice mid-palate flavour. Overall this wine lacks a lot of charm, and some aspects give me concern for further cellaring – still, this was my last. Day 2. Same room, same time of day – looks less rust coloured (!?) The aromatics have really cleaned up, it’s still slightly austere but a little less herbal. More balance, and that slight oxidised flavour is gone, the fruit has an altogether younger and darker impression – I would even go as far as to say appeal! Whilst still not charming, I would say this is an altogether more ‘correct’ performance – one that indicates the vigour of youth rather than the previous day’s pallor of age… Day 3. Like day 2, but more diffuse. Today the austerity coupled to the loose performance would give it the thumbs down. Interesting that the day 1 problem seemed to be something volatile in the wine – once it was gone, things really came together.
1995 Lafarge Michel, VolnayApr. 2009
Medium ruby-red colour. The nose is deep, meaty and leafy – one to keep sniffing. In the mouth there’s plenty of acidity and it’s followed by plenty of action too. Good persistence of flavour and whilst rather unruly, it’s definitely a wine with personality.
1997 Lafarge Michel, Beaune Les GrèvesAug. 2007
An understated, tight nose. Sweet red strawberry fruit on the palate couples to understated tannins and reserves as yet untested. Understatedly impressive.
1997 Lafarge Michel, Volnay Clos des ChênesAug. 2007
Roasted red fruits on the nose. The palate is much fresher and tannic; mouth-gripping and dry. The nicest part is the lovely red-fruited length. For sure this is a very young wine but overall hard to like – perhaps it will have it’s day, but I will already have drunk the Lafon by then!
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