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10 notes
2009 Hospices de Beaune, Meursault CharmesMay. 2012
Cuvée Albert Grivault (Maison Drouhin) Pale golden. A nose of depth, plenty of patisserie too. Slides across the tongue in a silky fashion with very understated acidity, but far from MIA. There is some extract in the mid-palate but it is a ‘slow grower’ rather than a wine of fireworks – seemingly the apogee of flavour is in the finish as the wine continues to widen. As noted, no fireworks, rather a wine for contemplation – and I did contemplate all of it!
1996 Hospices de Beaune, Corton Charlotte DumayDec. 2009
Still medium-plus colour, but it’s all a garnet-red now. The nose has a little marmite, brown sugar and just a little dried brown leaves. There wine is clearly based on it’s acidity, but a sweetness runs through its core, and boy, does that sweetness last – impressive length. The flavour is a little ‘beefier’ than I’d prefer, perhaps with a faint oxidation too, but the faintly grained tannin is 100% ripe and fading. Enjoyed, but I’m not sure about that oxidative flavour, without would have been an easy ‘rebuy’…
1998 Hospices de Beaune, Corton-CharlemagneApr. 2008
Cuvée François de Salins, Maison Paul Reitz. The colour is already a little concerning – a deep, burnished golden – fortunately the aromas have only the barest suggestion of anything oxidative, mainly showcasing a deep core of mature fruit edged with a trace of toffee. The palate is balanced, showing a waxy-smooth texture and a very nice length, redolent of the toffee on the nose. I think this is ready right now and will only decline from here. Very enjoyable – tinged with buyer’s regret as I only bought one!
1996 Hospices de Beaune, Beaune Cuvée Nicolas RolinAug. 2007
A Chanson Père bottling. Medium-plus colour. The nose is deep and forward but throughout most of our time together it was always a little uncouth – there was finally a pretty red fruit note to save it. The palate is much better; density, very good acidity, background tannin and rather long – though like many from 96 the flavour profile is just a little metallic. Quite tasty but I wouldn’t go out of my way to buy more.
1996 Hospices de Beaune, Corton Charlotte DumayApr. 2007
Classic 1996 Corton. The nose is of blood and iron, eventually red berry fruit from the partially drained glass. The palate is linear and intense – almost metallic acidity pushes you into a quite long finish. The only thing that this wine gives away is the free polish of your teeth. I wouldn’t go as far as to say it’s enjoyable right now – but I was (just about) up to the challenge!
2000 Hospices de Beaune, Beaune Gigione de SalinsJul. 2005
Reserve of the Hospices. Medium, young colour. The nose jumps out of the glass with very bright and red-fruity notes, then after a time closes a little. The palate shows sweet, ripe fruit. There’s a nice character to this wine, a little ‘tender’, not high acidity for sure, but still mouthwatering. The tannins are in the background with just a little grain. Medium-plus length – a tasty and well mannered wine, particularly for 2000 Côte de Beaune.
2000 Hospices de Beaune, Meursault Genevrières Philippe le BonJul. 2005
Hospices reserve. Medium golden colour. A deep, waxy and quite exotic nose. The palate shows a super waxy-smooth texture, depth and interest coupled with a real mid-palate punch. This wine is very long too. I had to take a second glass – super.
1997 Hospices de Beaune, Beaune Cuvée Dames HospitalièresNov. 2003
(Bouchard Père) Deep ruby colour with no obvious aging. Lovely rich nose of high toned black cherry underpinned by a trace of oak, develops a little blood-orange and coffee with time. Lovely mouthfeel with silky drying tannins and excellent acidity. There’s good concentration of black cherry which lingers in a very satisfying way. This is a wine that you can drink much faster than you should. Perfectly balanced to age but very satisfying today – very impressive.
1997 Hospices de Beaune, Pommard Cuvée Dames de Charité, Bouchard PèreNov. 2003
Medium-plus ruby, no fading. The nose is primary red and black cherry, mainly black. Excellent fat black fruity palate with prominent grainy tannins and good acidity. Medium plus length, finishing slightly creamy – an excellent example, I like this a lot – now where can I get some more!
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