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1998 Gros Frère & Soeur, Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de NuitsDec. 2009
Medium-plus ruby-red. The nose starts a complete jumble of dark wood, similarly dark fruit and some spice – fortunately it knits together rather well in only about 20 minutes; creamy spiced deep red plums and macerating cherry – not quite how I expect a bourgogne to smell, but it’s very, very nice, and frankly it gets better and better. Fresh and still quite astringent in its ‘attack’, yet the dark fruit mirrors the nose with some creamy packaging. Quite intense and, all-in-all, quite impressive in a burly Nuits sort of way. I was ready to dismiss it early-on, but clearly that would have been at my own loss! Definitely needs another 3 or-so years to mellow the astringent tannin – though it’s far from in the ascendant when taken with food – but it’s velvet tannin so ought to be worth waiting for.
2007 Gros Frère & Soeur, EchézeauxApr. 2009
A sweet and nicely focused nose. In the mouth it’s full and intense and coupled to slightly grainy tannins – what a difference a few more vine years makes! Good length with plenty of barrel flavour. Good wine.
2007 Gros Frère & Soeur, Grands-EchézeauxApr. 2009
The nose his nice depth, but less width than the Echézeaux. Intense with some slightly savoury flavours – also the acidity seems a little tart. Good length, but versus many other wines here – probably not worth the tariff.
2007 Gros Frère & Soeur, RichebourgApr. 2009
A very pretty floral aspect to the nose, floating above lovely fruit. Width and complexity and intensity. Then a reprise of the flavours after the mid-plate as you go into a super finish. A wine that’s so good, it plays tricks on you!
2007 Gros Frère & Soeur, Vosne-RomanéeApr. 2009
High toned with pretty red fruits. Ripe and sweet in the mouth with some grainy tannin. Decent mid-palate complexity. Not too much wood – this is very nice.
2007 Gros Frère & Soeur, Vosne-Romanée 1er CruApr. 2009
Declassified Echézeaux from vines that are about 10 years old. Slightly more diffuse aromatics. In the mouth there’s just a little more width and more tannin too – but fine tannin. It’s okay, slightly less charming than the basic villages, but there are better ‘values’ in this vintage.
2006 Gros Frère & Soeur, Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de NuitsDec. 2008
Medium colour. Forward, slightly savoury fruit aromas and a tough estery. Medium concentration with some obvious barrel notes. Reasonable length. Okay, but the oak treatment leaves this slightly ’soupy’.
2006 Gros Frère & Soeur, Vosne-RomanéeDec. 2008
A forward nose of some depth – coffee notes and red fruit with a savoury edge. Good texture and concentration. Smooth with good length. A good villages Vosne.
2006 Gros Frère & Soeur, Clos de Vougeot MusigniDec. 2008
Medium, medium-plus colour. Less forward aromatics, but more complex, mixing earth, coffee and red fruits. Mouth-filling structure though the tannin doesn’t overwhelm. There is a sneaky extra dimension of power and fruit in the mid-palate. Some barrel influence on the finish. This is actually very good!
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