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1986 Fougeray de Beauclair, Bonnes-MaresJul. 2010
The nose doesn’t offer the instant ‘to die for’ gratification of the Cotetidot 86 Clos de Vougeot, but it also far from disappointing; there’s a savoury, slightly saline impression that I assume has its roots in oak – although it’s a little tight, it’s also quite inviting. Given time the nose develops a more earthy depth. Silky, with grand-cru fat, this shows a little of that saline element in the flavour too, coupled to slightly oaky bitterness. The mid-palate just bursts forward with minerality and a selection of dried fruits; sweet currant and fig flavours stain your palate, eventually gaining a faint creaminess. The first of these 86s where I’m not delaying the next pour!
2000 Fougeray de Beauclair, Fixin Clos MarionDec. 2009
Medium ruby-red, just a hint of amber at the rim. For the first hour or so there was very interesting, truffley red fruit with an undercurrent of mushrooms, after an hour, no mushrooms and rather a minty red fruit with a little herb crust – from 4 bottles opened over 10 days, this was the only one with the mushrooms. Over the tongue it has a comforting texture and just enough acidity to balance the warm fruit. The tannin can still be found if you chew. Quite smooth in a non-traditional Fixin way. A good, sweet finish – as mature as is possible whilst still retaining real fruit flavours. I think I could drink a few of these heartwarming bottles during the closing summer weeks.
1998 Fougeray de Beauclair, Bonnes-MaresDec. 2008
Medium, medium-pale ruby red. A nice, rather aged but still fruity nose edged with a little funk. In the mouth the fruit is okay, but the remnants of the tannin still show an astringent edge – this must have been close to undrinkable in its youth! It’s quite long and it’s a tasty length, but the fruit is way ahead of the tannin in termes of the age curve. I wouldn’t touch another for 5 years and I still think it will be a long way from silky.
2006 Fougeray de Beauclair, Fixin Clos Marion BlancDec. 2008
The first vintage for this. Faint pineapple and even fainter honey on the nose. Fresh with slightly forward acidity but this acidity really helps open-out the flavours on the palate. Lingers quite well giving a savoury impression. Quite nice.
2006 Fougeray de Beauclair, Fixin Clos MarionDec. 2008
Medium, medium-pale colour. On the nose it shows soft, powdery red fruit and a deeper, sweeter core. Mouth-filling without overt concentration. Some tannin and good acidity underpinned by a creamy background. This is very nice.
2005 Fougeray de Beauclair, Fixin Clos MarionDec. 2008
The nose is much tighter with dried red fruits. This is also rather mouth-filling but just a little softer. The acidity is a little more forward though the tannin is finer. I feel a little more intensity but this is less friendly today than the 2006. Good length.
2006 Fougeray de Beauclair, Marsannay St.Jacques BlancDec. 2008
100% Pinot Blanc (locally Pinot Beurot). Deep aromatics that are sweet and show a hint of gunflint. Generous and soft, slightly prickly acidity that pushes into and lengthens the finish – lingers well.
2006 Fougeray de Beauclair, Marsannay St.JacquesDec. 2008
The nose shows herbs and faint cedar. Fresh with medium body but ebulient acidity that pushes the finish quite long. Those who by Mercurey should try some of this.
1996 Fougeray de Beauclair, Fixin Clos MarionFeb. 2003
Lovely red berry nose, though slightly ‘spikey’. The palate is relatively sweet with a nice depth of fruit. Good, though slightly tart acidity. A little rustic but still worth leaving for a while. Good
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