Why Big Red Diary?
3 notes
2004 Fontaine-Gagnard, Chassagne-Montrachet La RomanéeDec. 2006
Medium-yellow. Initially, wide but not deep aromatics that hint towards melon rather than the citrus paradigm of 2004; with time, higher tones start to predominate, perhaps with a hint of smoke and citrus! If the nose doesn’t leave you thinking of 2004 the taste does; classical acid-driven citrus notes that run perfectly into a finish that’s just a little more savoury. Versus the best 1er Cru’s of 04 this doesn’t have that painful, moreish intensity, yet it’s very tasty and enjoyable; I’d still be happy to drink this anytime.
1998 Fontaine-Gagnard, Bâtard-MontrachetOct. 2006
Golden. The nose is savoury with hints of oak, still a little one-dimensional. The palate is wide and well textured though I was expecting a little more fat – one of the winemakers present opines that the yields might have been ‘comfortable’ on this wine. There are very faint oxidative hints that would be entirely appropriate on a 10+ year-old wine, but here we have only 8 years. It’s a nice wine, but given the appellation I had higher expectations. The finish is a little short (vs the Corton-Charlemagne it is paired with) but that is probably the limitation of the vintage.
1996 Fontaine-Gagnard, Chassagne-Montrachet Les CailleretsFeb. 2003
Lovely nose, nicely integrated. Plenty of acidity but slightly harsh. The palate has good intensity but comes across a little bland. Almost good only.
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