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1995 Dujac, Morey St.DenisSep. 2011
Medium rusty-red. The nose is a blend of stemmy perfume – and at this age it really is perfume – and a higher-toned fresh plum fruit that flirts with a floral dimension; it’s quite lovely and keeps drawing me back for another sniff as the fruit changes to cherry and even redcurrant with time. In the mouth it doesn’t quite have that melt-in-the-mouth texture that you get with a perfectly matured wine, but there’s freshness and a structure that remains bright, indeed almost stern. The acidity is just about perfect, being the baseline for a beautifully understated but fine finish. Such a shame that I have only three or four more of these.
1995 Dujac, Morey St.DenisDec. 2009
Medium ruby-red colour with a faint browning at the rim. The nose is sweet and rather stemmy, there’s a faint beefy note that has me flirting with the notion of brett, and some mixed herbs. In the mouth the wine starts narrow, slowly opening over tongue. The acidity is a little sharp and metallic in flavour, it makes you forget to look for tannin, which whilst understated, is still a little blocky. Reasonable length and some sweetness, but today, no love.
2007 Dujac, Morey St.Denis BlancJul. 2009
From the lower part of the slopes. Pale yellow. High tones mix with a faint oak note. The oak begins to fade as the aromas take on more depth – just a hint of sulfur on the nose. Across the tongue it is wide, with a lovely freshness. The flavours of ripe fruit slowly penetrate the tongue. This is lovely.
2007 Dujac, Morey St.Denis Monts Luisants BlancJul. 2009
Pale yellow. The nose is more understated than the villages but offers up a finer selection of agrume style aromas. Flowing acidity, minerality and a wonderful intensity – even nervosity. I am smitten by this. A beautiful, beautiful wine.
2007 Dujac, Morey St.DenisJul. 2009
Aromatically high-toned with a very pretty red-black fruit melange. In the mouth there’s a pleasing width of creamy red fruit and nice minerality. Good underlying acidity and hidden tannin. Lovely.
2007 Dujac, Gevrey-Chambertin Les CombottesJul. 2009
These vines were mainly planted in two tranches in 1987 and 1991. Medium colour – just a little deeper than the villages. This beautiful nose that just hints towards stems is just so fine and soft but offers beautiful depth. Silky texture with a super dimension of creamy fruit. The finish lingers with a little oak bitterness – this will fade. I think this wine is gorgeous.
2007 Dujac, Clos St.DenisJul. 2009
Wide aromatics – the depth initially seems a little ‘clipped’ but slowly it opens up and widens out with shades of stems and becomes ever-more perfumed. After the Combottes, there is more minerality and as good as that wine was, there is yet extra dimension of mid-palate fruits. Superbly long – beautiful.
2007 Dujac, Clos de la RocheJul. 2009
The nose offers flashes of perfect fruit and faint smoke. Mineral, wide and with good acidity – there’s almost a salty ‘tang’ to the very long finish finish. More power and minerality than the Clos St.Denis, but less comfortingly fruity.
2007 Dujac, Vosne-Romanée Les Beaux MontsJul. 2009
This was previously a small cuvée for the domaine – 0.024 hectares, replanted in 1987. The addition of the 0.5 ha Moillard plot changes that. The vines were neighbouring and much older so the character of the domaine’s wine is now changing. They have moved them from cane to spur pruning and in this transition phase for the vines they are experiencing low yields. On the nose there’s a taught beadth of red fruit that overlays a faint muskiness. Very silky in the mouth, understated creamy intensity (maybe it’s only understated because it follows the Clos de la Roche!) in the mid-palate. Again, a long, mineral and satisfying finish.
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