Why Big Red Diary?
11 notes


2005 Dugat-Py Bernard, Charmes-ChambertinApr. 2008
Deeply coloured. The nose plums quite some depth, but the fruit is the only one so far that really has some roast effects – just slightly over-ripe. Quite a simple entry but the wine does a great job of expanding over the palate. There’s plenty of well-coated tannin but I would have preferred just a twist more acidity – seems lower than the other wines. Good primary length and not overtly oaky. High-quality wine but no obvious complexity.
2005 Dugat-Py Bernard, Mazis-ChambertinApr. 2008
Dark, indeed saturated colour – the first such wine. Super-concentrated aromatics with just a hint of over-ripe, roast fruit (the second wine with this). The acidity is covered by the fruit extract and shows a deft touch to keep such concentration in balance. From colour and concentration I’d assumed that this might be a little overblown – but not so, it’s a very nice wine that will certainly require extended cellaring, only the aromatics provided a hint of disappointment.
2002 Dugat-Py Bernard, Gevrey-Chambertin Coeur de RoyNov. 2007
Medium-plus cherry-red colour. On opening, the nose was actually rather engaging – like the Fourrier only denser. After about 40 minutes it’s deeper-still, rather savoury and ungainly – which is a shame – fortunately after 90 minutes it freshens up a little to give a relatively diffuse black-shade fruit which is not great but is certainly better – the last drops in the glass give cause for optimism though. The palate has a smooth, understated entry, in fact it’s silky smooth, linear and with darker-shaded fruit. The finish is understated, and the length is the equal of the 99 Fourrier that follows.
2004 Dugat-Py Bernard, Pommard Le LevrièreDec. 2006
Deep cherry-red. The nose starts quite reduced with sulfur and hints of mushroom – hard to get at the fruit – slowly it warms to give a bright, high-toned beacon of pure red fruit. The palate has a perfectly (oak) upholstered texture, really impressive concentration, good acidity and surprisingly only a mild grain to the tannin. This is quite mineral and shows a long finish, akin to having (I’m assuming!) a piece of coal in your mouth. From the mid-palate onwards this is much more impressive than the Coche. Very impressive.
2003 Dugat-Py Bernard, Pommard Le LevrièreDec. 2006
Deep cherry-red. High tones over a dense fruit core; initially a little diffuse this tightens and gives a chocolate edge. Very, very impressive concentration with just about enough acidity to carry it and its sandy textured tannins into the finish – those tannins are well-covered by the extract. Medium-plus length, this is very-well crafted – it is immaculately dressed though today it’s hard to communicate with. A very impressive if one-dimensional wine today.
2004 Dugat-Py Bernard, BourgogneOct. 2006
Medium, medium-plus colour. The nose is rather excellent – concentrated red fruit that is edged with a green note – but this green is more about malo than than a lack of ripeness. The palate is racy and interesting with good but not great concentration – perhaps not even at a villages level (with price comes a level of expectation) – the acidity is just a little sharp in the finish. A wonderful nose and an okay wine; I think you can buy better at the price, hence the criticism, but as a ‘simple’ bourgogne this is wonderful!
2004 Dugat-Py Bernard, Bourgogne Cuvée HalinardOct. 2006
Medium, medium-plus colour. The nose shows lots of oaky funk – this needs at least 2 hours to fade; afterwards there is a strong resemblance to the basic bourgogne – lovely red, slightly dried fruit set against a greenish malo background. The palate is more serious and concentrated vs the basic with a considerable increase to the length. Now we have a wine that definitely competes with decent village wines, but factoring in the price I’m a little unsure of the ‘value’, but anyway, this (in isolation) is a very good wine.
2004 Dugat-Py Bernard, Vosne-Romanée Vieilles VignesOct. 2006
Despite 75% whole bunch fermentation this is a deep cherry-red colour. The nose shouts aggressively of funk, reduction, sulfur and oak – nothing else – two hours are insufficient to make an iota of difference. If you leave the bottle (sans cork) upright in a ‘eurocave’ for 36 hours you will end up with something that actually smells of wine; dense but pure red fruit – I get the impression that you might need a week to see any oxidation! But why leave in a eurocave for 36 hours? Easy, what the funk might hide on the nose is there for all to see on the palate – cork taint. Now that’s a big shame (at least it wasn’t his Chambertin!) because there is concentration and a really exectutive texture – the tannins are so fine despite what I assume to be significant extraction. Ignoring the taint, this is mightily impressive wine though if you want to drink now I suggest early preparation – 8 hours in a decanter with lots of air would be my starting point or, better still, opening the night before and leaving the open bottle to overnight in the fridge.
2003 Dugat-Py Bernard, BourgogneNov. 2005
Medium-plus cherry-red. The nose reminds of walking into a barrel cellar, very young red fruit, tinged with black and mixed with a strong vanilla component. Concentrated to a level way above regional wine, good texture and good enough acidity. Roughly medium-length creamy fruit – if it was any longer you might guess 1er cru. Bravo!
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