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67 notes
2001 Drouhin Joseph, EchézeauxApr. 2012
Medium colour. The nose offers occasional floral flashes, there is little on show here, perhaps just a little warm brown sugar. Sweetness of fruit and just a faint sour edge to good acidity. There’s a nice core of flavour, still with a faint rasp of tannin and quite some complexity – like a creamy cinnamon flavour but it’s all in the mid-palate and finish. This, grand cru or not, is a wine of subtle complexity rather than intensity and/or concentration. There should be no rush to drink this, but this is hardly even a middle-weight of a wine – that said, it was lovely!
1974 Drouhin Joseph, Chambolle-Musigny Les AmoureusesOct. 2011
Clean, bright medium coloured, clear at the rim. The nose has depth, initially with a hint of must – I’ll come back to it. In the mouth this is clean, indeed has cleansing acidity but without being tart. It seems linear and a little dilute – only in the mid-palate does it begin to unfold and deliver waves of decently intense flavour. By now the nose has tidied up and there’s a hint of pyrazine, but it’s more coal than coal-tar and adds an interesting dimension, another hour on and it smells fabulous with perfect red berries over a faintly musky base. So, this is silky and subtle, but with clean and long-lasting flavours and just the right amount of ‘sweet’. It is a very elegant lady who has retained quite some of her good looks – I really enjoyed spending the evening with her!
1985 Drouhin Joseph, Gevrey-ChambertinJan. 2011
Medium-plus colour, tending more to mahogany than red. The nose has limited width, but quite some brown-sugared and warm-fruited depth. There is less silk to the texture but a more open and sweet flavour, like-able as it is, I still have the occasional faint impression of something oxidative (the cork slid out very easily) and a last vestige of tannic astringency. Slowly fading on a similar bitter-chocolate note to the previous wine, though perhaps not with the length of the Pontbriand.
2008 Drouhin Joseph, Beaune Les GrèvesJul. 2010
A nice, bright medium colour. Understated but very fine and precise fruit aromas. Fresh, wide, intense and complex. Very faint hints of vanilla. Wow – lovely wine – super.
2002 Drouhin Joseph, Grands-EchézeauxApr. 2010
Dark, mineral and earthy notes. Good width with plenty of tannin. Quite open and interesting, but very young.
1990 Drouhin Joseph, Grands-EchézeauxMar. 2010
Still deeply coloured. The nose starts with forceful aromas of freshly turned leaves, after 30 minutes it’s on a lower lever but my glass actually needed almost an hour to finally develop sweet and detailed dried red fruits, meat and herbs – the aromas were probably peaking as I was sleeping in my bed – but burgundians don’t decant do they ;-) In the mouth this is sweet and quite powerful. The mid-palate structure is actually a little rustic, but who cares when there are so many dimensions of flavour. Energy and character here, and it’s a long way from it’s peak – bravo!
2005 Drouhin Joseph, Beaune Clos des MouchesDec. 2009
Medium, medium-pale yellow colour. The nose is quite forward and displays both width and aromatic depth. Faint butter edges yellow fruit, and there’s a hint of torrefaction at the borders that adds a butterscotch note to the ripe lemon fruit. Very good texture, balance, and with an intensity that keeps growing in the mouth. There’s none of that warm fat that is typical of a Beaune blanc, and there’s a good burst of interest in the mid-palate. The flavours of the finish have a more mineral aspect and is very, very good. Overall, it’s a great package – every sip was savoured.
1999 Drouhin Joseph, Côte de Nuits VillagesMay. 2009
Medium colour. A deep nose of spice and cedar plus faint, sweet and maturing background fruit. Quite silky, a slightly unripe impression to the fruit, good acidity and largely diminished tannin. A pretty length until some finishing bitterness. Interesting parts and great value, but missing charm today.
1999 Drouhin Joseph, Vosne-RomanéeMay. 2009
Some meaty depth on the nose, covered by a slightly alcoholic note. Lots of acidity, tannin that only shows itself in the mid-palate and certainly some dimension. This, today, needs either a little more density or ripeness to offset acidity that has a tart edge to it. Just a trace of bitterness in the finish.
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