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2008 Drouhin Joseph (Domaine de Vaudon), Chablis Reserve de VaudonDec. 2009
Medium-pale lemon-yellow. The nose starts in a forward way, the aromas are somewhere on the border between oak toast and earthy minerality – it’s a great balancing act – slowly it is more towards the toasty bread part of the spectrum. In the mouth, the concentration gives a decent slightly oily, padded texture, but it’s a transient impression as the zinging grapefruit-style acidity takes hold. There is a sweetness that is the perfect foil to that grapefruit. Refreshing, not bad length, this is superb for the price and already a candidate for house wine 2010! A small amount left for day 2 had no trace of toast whatsoever, but was also missing that perfect sweet/acid balance of day 1 – so don’t save any!
2005 Drouhin Joseph (Domaine de Vaudon), ChablisNov. 2007
Pale lemon-yellow. The nose has some intensity; high tones over ripe, linear fruit – there’s no seashore but it’s nice enough. Versus the ripe, slightly sweet Drouhin bottling, that is amply balanced by lovely acidity, this is just a little more austere; again super acidity but this time a little more to the fore but the mid-palate intensity – to which the acidity contributes – is super. Reasonable length too. Painfully young, but like an itch you can’t stop scratching – and this type of itch is usually more expensive to scratch – this is already my third bottle and I can feel another order coming on…
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