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2007 Croix (des), Beaune Les GrèvesJan. 2012
The nose shows depth, width and complexity – of fruit – a totally different animal to the previous wine, eventually also delivering a floral aroma too. Silken entry, this is round and concentrated, and like the Le Moine also delivers a bitter-chocolate tannin in the finish – the first obvious oak artefact. Very lovely wine – you would be hard pressed to guess the vintage.
2005 Croix (des), Bourgogne Pinot NoirFeb. 2011
Popped and poured. Still a relatively deep, purple-highlighted colour. The very faint background reduction mixes with a little oak and higher-toned alcoholic notes – that could be a little CO2 – let’s see. Slowly that slightly volatile element calms with, first, high-toned redcurrant then raspberry as the aromatic profile becomes more settled. Fine, soft tannin, slightly plush with a very silky texture. Really good pinot flavour and again an oaky impression plus a little creamy depth in the mid-palate. Really fills the mouth but with dimension rather and acid-driven expansion. Super. Wait a couple of hours and the oak/reduction is on a lower level and the nose is both deeper and darker. And the flavour, well it rather recedes – it’s still there and still interesting but you have to chew harder on the tannin to find it – still without the dimension of its early phase. Just very good young wine with a quality level bearing no resemblance to its label. Day 2?: The nose is now about blackberry/blackcurrant. The palate is a little unusual as it starts wide but narrows very quickly – the cream undertow is back and the fruit is darker than the first day, but it is almost cordial-like – far too easy to drink!
2008 Croix (des), Beaune Cent VignesJul. 2010
Medium colour. Here’s a nose with something to say; faint spearmint above very, very pretty red fruit that’s eventually augmented by the perfume of violets – far from over the top, but captivating – the mint eventually becoming just a suggestion of herbs. In the mouth there’s a sorbet-edge to the acidity and understated red fruit – delicate and complex. It seems to fade relatively quickly but holds on well to a final mineral note. The tannin is only there if you search it out, very faintly astringent. This is an achingly pretty wine that blind, who’s to say it’s not from Volnay…
2008 Croix (des), Beaune PertuisotsJul. 2010
Medium, medium-plus colour. There’s a hint of herb, but essentially the nose starts deeper and darker than the Cent Vignes, perhaps it’s that faint note of reduction, but this certainly has the classical 2008 darker fruit! As the wine opens it more clearly shows the family (cuverie) relationship to the Cent Vignes as the aromas become redder and an more floral – very nice indeed. This is much more about up-front intensity, a hint of oak and much more than a hint of acidity – this will need a little unwinding. I’d say about an hour of aeration is needed for a more balanced interpretation – it’s the Cent Vignes with more ‘bang’ – not necessarily better, just different. I have a slight preference for the CV but wouldn’t turn either of these down…
2008 Croix (des), BeauneJul. 2010
Medium, medium-plus colour. The nose is a lovely thing; it’s not overly effusive or very deep, but it’s a thing of detail and clarity – initially some whiffs of wood but an hour afterwards quite beguiling dark red fruit. In the mouth, like many 08s, it’s freshness personified and may not be to the taste of everyone, but like the nose there are middle-weight fruit flavours that are a clarion of clarity. The finish is, no surprise, driven by the acidity. For my taste there’s ‘just’ enough balance today, it’s precise and enjoyable, but it’s not for lovers of sweetly plush wines, it could be a tougher proposition in its ‘middle years’ though.
2008 Croix (des), Beaune Les GrèvesJul. 2010
Medium, medium-plus colour. The nose shows a faint savoury edge but little else for at least an hour, swirl madly a there’s dark but tight core of fruit with faint oak seasoning. Given plenty of time (2+hours) the nose shows a little inky depth before sticking with a glossy dark red/black fruit personality, only the last drops have a pure redcurrant essence. The palate starts just a little tart, but within 30 minutes it’s opened a little addng both texture and sweetness of fruit – from the start it is intense but it’s a linear intensity. For the life of the bottle it never quite fulfils it’s potential – the acidity remains just-about in balance (sorbet-like), and despite its intensity the wine offers only a very linear experience – even on day two. Everything seems in place, but I don’t know how long we might have to wait to see a ‘wow’.
2008 Croix (des), Corton-CharlemagneJul. 2010
Medium yellow. The nose starts with a width of Charlemagne herbs, slowly but surely taking on a warmer, slightly heady orchard blossom aroma. Start drinking when it’s too cold and this is certainly not a Charlemagne of instant impact, rather it builds both concentration and intensity in the mouth. In the mid-palate there is GC extract and intensity that fades on beautiful acidity. Silky understatement but considerable length, no extraneous inputs, just pure wine. Yum!
2007 Croix (des), Beaune PertuisotsJul. 2010
Medium colour. Warm, ripe red fruit aromas. Soft yet mouth-filling, quite a wide impression from the ripe fruit. The face is friendly and delivers a sneaky extra dimension of flavour in the mid-palate. Very nice.
2006 Croix (des), Corton-CharlemagneJul. 2008
Medium yellow. The nose is wide and shows a complex mix of fruits; pineapple, melon, lemon and a white blossom. Rich concentration with real intensity in the mid-palate and nicely-judged acidity. The flavours in the finish start slightly savoury and fade in a creamier way. Very young but certainly much more concentration that the two pulignys which were drank either side of it…
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