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4 notes

 

1997 de Montille (Hubert), Puligny-Montrachet Le CailleretsNov. 2003
A medium gold colour. The nose gathers depth with time, with well integrated oak, faint petrolly notes and agrumes. Good acidity and a mildly oaky palate that is concentrated but very tight and initially a little flat in the mid-palate – certainly would benefit from another 2 or 3 years wait, the mid-palate really fills out with aeration. Super length that sneaks up on you. For drinking today there’s more fun to be found from J-M Boillots village Puligny, but for the long term, this is the wine I’d really like to have in my cellar.
1997 de Montille (Hubert), BourgogneJul. 2003
A wine that never ceases to surprise me. Medium cherry red still – it could easily be from 2000. The nose speaks of Volnay, it’s soft and welcoming with smooth and primary red cherry and raspberry. Despite only 12% alcohol the palate is nicely fat with strong cherry fruit and very good acidity. Whilst the tannins are still a little astringent, they’ve lost the harsh note they had two years ago. Medium length, but frankly if this was re-labelled as 1er Cru Volnay under a négociant name (that you never heard of) you probably wouldn’t be disappointed! Forget the Bourgogne label, this is better than many village Volnays from 1999 – can you buy better Bourgogne?
1992 de Montille (Hubert), Volnay TaillepiedsJan. 2003
Still has a quite deep colour, but just a little brick at the rim. Nose is a really beautiful aged burgundy which defies description. On the palate there is still good acidity and virtually zero tannin. The mainly red fruit is still there, but only just. Nice, though the finish is verging on the acidic . Unfortunately the palate doesn’t live up to the nose. Not a wine to search for.
1997 de Montille (Hubert), Bourgogne RougeDec. 2002
Mid brick colour. Nose starts with the merest whiff of toasty oak, but disappears after only 5 minutes (good !), leaving a beautiful Volnay nose – wow and from a bourgogne rouge too! Good acidity, not yet softened tannins and a lovely follow-through. Really excellent and almost ready. Whilst expensive for what it is (£11) I’ve had many Volnays less good than this one.
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