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11 notes

 

1992 Comtes Lafon, Monthelie Les DuressesApr. 2012
Beautiful medium-red colour, no obvious browning or bricking. The nose is highly engaging (this time!); a macerating, baked redcurrant note with just the merest hint of a creamy coating – interestingly there’s a little 2004-style pyrazine here too – of ~2/10 green meanie intensity – a level that adds interest, rather than turn the stomach. It starts with a narrow flavour profile, but it’s balanced, indeed fresh – a little time in the glass allows the shape of wine to fill out some. The fruit has just enough ripeness and a very faint astringency (still). I might be tempted to say that I’m drinking this a little young, but I’m finding much of interest here. At a good price I certainly might buy again.
2006 Comtes Lafon, VolnayApr. 2008
The only 2006 that’s currently in bottle. Medium colour. The nose is subtle and floral. Round in the mouth with well-covered tannin and shows a nice burst on the mid-palate
2005 Comtes Lafon, VolnayApr. 2008
A deeper medium, medium-plus colour. The nose is also deeper, showing more oak and a hint of reduction. Lovely coverage of the tannins and plenty of oak on the palate too, but the finish is pure and fruit-driven. Good wine.
2005 Comtes Lafon, Volnay ChampansApr. 2008
Medium-plus colour. Dark fruits, a little oak and floral tones – violets on the nose. Meatier tannins and good dry extract too though the tannins aren’t quite covered. The length is very impressive, dark and interesting.
2005 Comtes Lafon, Volnay Santenots-du MilieuApr. 2008
Medium-plus colour. Dark aromatics that are a little wilder-fruited than the Champans and again with a higher-toned floral background. Mineral concentration – and plenty of it! Lots of grainy tannin and a river of length. Very impressive wine.
1997 Comtes Lafon, Volnay Santenots-du MilieuAug. 2007
(Magnum) The nose is mainly about understated black cherry – but few ’97’s have such quality of fruit. The first impression on the palate is the tannin – there’s plenty – but not too astringent and forecasting a long life. The ample concentration lingers on a fine finish. More than enough balance here, this is one of the most successful 97’s and firmly recommended.
1997 Comtes Lafon, Meursault Les GenevrièresAug. 2007
Width, freshness and a brioche depth on the nose. Ripe and concentrated with a very good texture. Long too. This hangs together very well, it’s very good wine – vintage independant.
1997 Comtes Lafon, Meursault CharmesAug. 2007
Pale yellow. The nose is less obviously forward than his Genevrières, but finer with extra sophistication. The palate is wide, complex, ripe and long. What more can I say? Less showy but no less quality than the Genevrières.
1990 Comtes Lafon, Volnay Santenots-du MilieuDec. 2006
(From magnum) Very deep colour – close to black. No obvious oak on the nose, but it’s so dense and unforgiving – perhaps this is a harsh adjective, but this wine is so fresh, linear and dense that it could be 2002 in presentation. The only clue to its age, is that the tannins have started to melt, but super concentration remains – it’s a tour-de-force – but wait for 2015. If there is one criticism, the wine doesn’t seem so long and is unlikely to gain length with extra age – but I’m still very, very impressed. Versus the Clerget Chambolle this has twice the depth & concentration, but the Clerget is significantly more refined – the choice is yours.
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