Why Big Red Diary?
10 notes



2009 Clark David, Bourgogne Au PelsonSep. 2011
Does my nose deceive me? This smells of stems – not entirely smoky, more the slightly herbaceous version – it’s better if you keep it below 18°C. Very good freshness, intensity and length too but the flavour although there is some sweetness also has a borderline ripeness about it. The finish is very good. Although I don’t find stems ‘criminal’, this wine is far from it’s drinking peak today – based on my experience of other stemmy cuvées (I’m assuming that there really are stems within) this will have a great perfume, but only from 2014…
2009 Clark David, Bourgogne PassetoutgrainsAug. 2011
Medium colour. The nose has warm but not overtly ripe fruit, is slightly floral and seems far from a poster-child for gamay. Understated flavours slowly grow rather than deliver impact and interestingly this is completely smooth and supple – again hard to find the gamay! Good texture and pleasingly elegant.
2009 Clark David, Côte de Nuits VillagesJul. 2011
Only a hint more than medium colour. I’ve come to expect a bit of stubborn background reduction in David Clark’s wines but there’s not even a hint of it here; a little toasted bread (more like a white). In the mouth this is forward, fresh and quite intense. The flavours have a bit of the floral about them, the red fruit being far from the 09 vernacular of overtly ripe and sweet. Just a hint of oak flavour in the finish too. This is a wine that drinks quite well now but I suspect it will be on another level in 6-12 months. Very accomplished.
2007 Clark David, Morey St.Denis Les PorrouxOct. 2010
Medium, medium-plus colour. The nose is a lovely mix of dark berries and cherries, a suggestion of reduction but nothing like his bourgognes. Width, softly textured and super balance. There is a lovely sweetness to the dark fruit and it lingers very well in the finish. There’s even a suggestion of tannin in the mid-palate too – a surprise considering the ‘light-but-nice’ poise of the domaine’s 2006. This is a very, very above average 2007. Super – really!
2008 Clark David, Côte de Nuits VillagesSep. 2010
Medium-plus cherry-red colour. Like many of David’s wines the aromas have a dark undertow that has a hint of reduction at its core but there a musky padding to it that makes it quite compelling. Cool, this has just enough padding to cover the acidity – as it warms in the glass the balance is more generous. Very good width to not especially deep fruit, but there’s a hint of creaminess to add to the crunchy dark fruit and a lovely length. I like this very much, and whilst I might prefer to drink it before the fruit fades and the acidity becomes pronounced, it might still be interesting to save a bottle or two. Very nice indeed.
2006 Clark David, Bourgogne Au PelsonApr. 2010
Medium-plus cherry-red colour. The nose has dark flashes of oak, suggestions but never any hard evidence of reduction and a very nice brambly dark fruit. Intense, very good fruit and a good villages-level of depth and complexity. Mouth-watering modestly in the finish. David delivers another superb bourgogne.
2006 Clark David, Bourgogne Grand Ordinaire En BolleryApr. 2010
Medium, medium-plus cherry-red colour. The nose has some reduction that takes an age to fade – in fact doesn’t completely – and a wide red cherry fruit, it’s rather fine. Some sweetness to the ripe fruit, a background of slightly astringent tannin, and good intensity too. The quality of this wine absolutely belies its lowly appellation, if not the actual position of the vines. It’s one of those wines that gets consumed all too quickly – excellent!
2006 Clark David, Bourgogne PassetoutgrainsFeb. 2010
Deep colour – plenty of purple too. The nose shows lots of reduction – about 90 minutes is needed for it to fade though it is never completely gone – deep brambly fruit and a herbal top-note. Linear entry and rather fine tannin – good balancing acidity that amplifies and widens the flavours across the mid-palate – it finishes really impressively. This is a relatively big wine – much more so than the domaine’s 2006 Morey St.Denis for instance. Well-done!
2006 Clark David, Morey St.Denis Les PorrouxFeb. 2010
This was a wine of elegance and balance – very, very charming – certainly not the masculinity often seen from Morey.
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