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22 notes

 

1998 Clair Bruno, Marsannay Les LongeroisFeb. 2011
Medium colour. The aromas plumb a great depth of clean dark fruit and a little forest floor – occasional halves of these are showing VA, but not this full bottle. A narrow entry slowly widens; the tannin is almost all resolved but still delivers a little bitter chocolate in the finish. The acidity is just a hint prominent, but there’s nothing currently to worry about. The fruit has plenty of sweet maturity about it, particularly I like the strong note it holds in the mid-palate. No shame in drinking these now, and to my taste the last bottle about three years ago was better, but like most burgundy there’s no rush!
1998 Clair Bruno, Marsannay Les Grasses TêtesApr. 2010
Half bottle, plenty of dark sediment adheres to the inside of the bottle. The colour is taking on a slightly browner caste at the rim, relatively young and red it remains at the core. Hmm, the nose let’s us down, slight beefy aromas that hint to brett and a hint of VA too – just this bottle? Wait long enough and a sweet red cherry aroma starts to poke through, but it remains slightly veiled. In the mouth there is the expected pure, candied and detailed red berry fruit, the finish is pure strawberry – beautiful primary flavours still – and it’s 12 year-old Marsannay! The tannin is understated and shows no astringency – beautiful acidity. Lovely, lovely apart from the nose – my worst bottle…
2006 Clair Bruno, Marsannay Les VaudenellesDec. 2008
Medium colour. High-toned, pretty aromatics. Manages to fill your mouth with good concentration and slow to arrive, slightly astringent tannin. Super length, a very pretty wine.
2006 Clair Bruno, Morey St.Denis En la Rue de VergyDec. 2008
Medium colour. Wide aromatics that are fine and backed with a little caramel and good depth. Fresh, fine and beautifully put together. Lovely length and the tannin shows itself here too with a little grab. Super but clearly young.
2006 Clair Bruno, Vosne-Romanée Les Champs PerdrixDec. 2008
From 70 year-old vines in the south of Vosne. A bright medium, medium-plus colour. High-toned though aromatically rather tight. Good concentration of beautiful fruit – this is lovely. Slowly fading length – super.
2006 Clair Bruno, Gevrey-Chambertin Clos St.JacquesDec. 2008
Medium, medium-plus colour. Also rather tight but there’s a more caramel depth surrounding the tight core of glossy fruit. The structure initially seems completely separate to the fruit – then both come together perfectly. This super wine is clearly vin de garde material, so keep it in the cellar for a few years.
2006 Clair Bruno, Chambertin Clos-de-BèzeDec. 2008
Medium, medium-plus colour. Tight again – hard to get at the aromas. In the mouth I think it lacks a little focus, but the dimension and complexity are easy to see. Less obviously forward and ‘brusque’ as the Clos St.Jacques, but the finish goes on and on…
2005 Clair Bruno, Chambertin Clos-de-BèzeApr. 2008
Medium, medium-plus colour. A wide, coffee inflected and soft nose – eventually some lovely red fruit on the nose. The acidity is brighter and makes for a nice burst of interest in the mid-palate and into the finish. There is plenty of tannin but the fruit is a good match.
2005 Clair Bruno, Savigny-lès-Beaune Les DominodeNov. 2007
A deep and dark nose. Plenty of grainy tannin here coupled with mouthwatering acidity too. Fortunately the fruit is also very interesting and seems up to the job. Good as it is, it’s twice the price of Pavelot’s and not as good.
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