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               Why Big Red Diary?
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43 notes
2000 Chézeaux, Gevrey-Chambertin Lavaux St.JacquesMar. 2012
Medium colour. The nose is a symphony; there’s still a pure red fruit note towards the top of the range, but there’s a musky undergrowth that cushions it, lovely depth too – you could just sit and sniff this – which is just fine! Actually the palate’s not that bad either, but the nose gives you the impression that there should be more. It’s still pretty good with a (more) linear (than you expect) but still slightly cushioned impression, decent acidity and still just a hint of astringency on the back of your tongue. The fruit has a little sweetness to it, but not in the rather warm, typical 2000 vernacular. Understated, slighly mineral flavours linger in the finish. Not the concentration of yesterday’s 99 villages Chambolle, but complex and interesting.
2002 Chézeaux, Gevrey-Chambertin Clos des ChezeauxApr. 2010
Medium, medium-plus colour. The nose has a little depth and intensity, faint herbs and, as the glass drains, lovely piercing red berries – mmmm… It starts a little strident, but 30 minutes from opening there’s a real extra fatness and super acidity that dovetails to a decent villages intensity. Subtly long. A wine that ‘gives’ a lot – yum!
2007 Chézeaux, Clos St.Denis Vieilles VignesJul. 2009
These are now over 100 year-old vines, the label says ‘vieilles vignes’, but the cork, (like the label on the Ponsot botting) says très vieilles vignes’. Medium, medium-plus colour. For quite a while after opening, the aromatics are rather diffuse offering almost a little blood-orange fruit, slowly it takes on a little focus with a dark, if not black cherry-fruit, still a little ‘lifted’ though intense and eventually very pretty violet floral notes – the longer it is open the more intense it gets, perhaps a little raisined fruit hiding in the depths. Right from the start, this is intense and fresh – reminds me of a great white wine where the intensity and acidity make it hard for you to keep it in your mouth. If you’re prepared to fight with that intensity you will find very little overt tannin yet a certain silkiness, and there’s an understated but considerable length. At a similar stage (September last year) the 2006 was also rather difficult to judge, maybe that’s why Laurent Ponsot waits longer to release his wines, likewise this impresses in so many areas without quite delivering a ‘whole’. I’m confident enough that the balance and intensity will bestow a long life to this wine, eventually to blossom.
2007 Chézeaux, Griotte-ChambertinJul. 2009
Medium cherry-red. The nose starts with a burst of enthusiasm, tightens for a couple of minutes, then relaxes; although it’s not so wide there is a wonderful depth of dark, close to raised, fruit – eventually the aromas fill-out, proffering baked raspberry edged with violets! In your mouth, it cocks it’s hat to the domaine’s Clos St.Denis with an intensity that is acid-encrusted – fresh redcurrant style – with this wine there’s a little more tannin, but the most surprising aspect is the finish – it’s not so much the length, rather the very mineral, slatey flavour – it seems more like grand cru Chablis than comely Griotte, and that’s the wine all-over. No comfy, plush, slightly facile experience that you may expect from the label, rather a wine that challenges you with every sniff and sip, but in return offers you a different aroma and flavour as reward. I can’t call it gorgeous, but I found it sooo rewarding…
2004 Chézeaux, Gevrey-Chambertin Lavaux St.JacquesJul. 2009
Medium-pale colour. After the first whiff I chose to double decant – it may have helped a little, but there was still plenty of vintage ‘character’. Behind the mineral, cedary, slightly minty curtain is a pretty red fruit note that becomes ever brighter as the glass drains. In the mouth the ‘character’ is enough that it also intrudes on the flavour – on the other hand it’s sweet, nicely textured and would seem nicely transparent, even a little chocolaty. Drinkable, but hard for me to love this one.
2000 Chézeaux, Gevrey-Chambertin Lavaux St.JacquesJul. 2009
Medium-pale colour. Warm, ripe fruit aromas slowly give way to delicate and very pretty, precise red berry notes with hints of raisin fruit. Detailed, pretty and balanced – red fruit dominated. Quite delicate, but silky and complex – not powerful but great finesse. Very much enjoyed. in fact the longer I sayed with it, the more it reminded me of the ‘85 Jadot…
2007 Chézeaux, Chambolle-Musigny Les CharmesMay. 2009
Medium colour. The nose is intense red fruit, slightly dried and creamy cranberry in aspect. Lovely freshness, depth without overt concentration and impressive dimension(s) of fruit in the mid-palate. Even without real intensity I’m rather smitten – the complexity is enough! Nice length, the last few drops in the glass provide a gorgeous redcurrant aroma – really super!
2006 Chézeaux, Chambolle-Musigny Les CharmesDec. 2008
A relatively pale young wine – medium cherry-red colour. The nose is quite tight – some depth but little width, only slowly does a little definition and a pure red note start to build, eventually there’s also a floral aspect. Super texture, the tannin slowly builds in the mouth to give a little ripple of grain, astringency and also a little bitterness. Acidity is finely balanced and there is very good intensity to the fruit, fruit that seems to become sweeter with time. Not completely full of ‘charm’ at this stage, but everything is in place – wait at least 5 years before returning.
2006 Chézeaux, Griotte-ChambertinDec. 2008
The colour is just a little darker. Aromatically I started with some concerns; the cork had a bad, rancid, almost volatile smell to it, some of that showed up as ‘inner mouth perfume’ as Burghound would say – far from perfume though – but fortunately it was only very faint on the nose. Mouth-filling, plenty of very fine tannin and a width of fine red fruit that’s both sweet and lingering. It’s quite a long way from the stunning depth of the 05, but then there is enough of that strange taint that I won’t rate it and would certainly send it back in a restaurant. I didn’t open a second one right away to see if it was better…!
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