Why Big Red Diary?
4 notes
2002 Chevigny Pascal, Vosne-RomanéeDec. 2009
This has medium, medium-plus colour. Tight, but a deep, brooding core of fruit topped by spiced red fruit, perhaps a trace of coffee too. The palate is also a little tight, but the texture is not bad, the tannin is relatively fine-grained with just a hint of astringency. Good balance of acidity but the fruit is now clenched around the core structure. Slowly mouth-watering. Relatively closed, but seemingly with everything in place – two bottles remain in the cellar – next one at 10 years of age I’d say.
2003 Chevigny Pascal, Vosne-Romanée Vieilles VignesNov. 2005
Deep colour with a purple rim. The nose settles to bright red cherry with an edge of red berry fruit over a deeper, bubbling base. The fruit on the palate easily cuts through a swathe of tannin. There’s good concentration and it’s very enjoyable. It still comes over as cool and burgundian rather than hot and bothered. Frankly I expect it’s a wine for the short to medium term as the tannin could dominate if the fruit recedes. It’s been a bit of a crowd pleaser for guests at home this summer – particularly those shiraz lovers…
2003 Chevigny Pascal, Vosne-Romanée Vieilles VignesJul. 2005
No VV label on the 2002 – what a difference a year makes. Deep crimson (blue-shade red actually). The nose at room temperature is quite diffuse but faint spice and deep, sweet black fruit lay in wait. Cool the wine to 15°C and it’s altogether tighter and in some ways (if you wait long enough) reminds me of 1993. Dense, indeed intense, mouth-watering acidity (Burghound notes no acidification in 03) and tannins that are very well covered by the extract. Very 2003 but it’s big fun too. As well-made as any in 2003 and very good value (~17€), I’ll have to try and visit this year.
2002 Chevigny Pascal, Vosne-RomanéeMar. 2005
Medium-plus cherry-red colour. The nose is a little yeasty at first and fresh-baked bread, then slowly starts to give up fresh black cherry and even a blue tinge to the fruit, just a little licorice and bacon too. The palate is mouthfilling with good acidity, medium-plus furry tannins and a spicy black fruit aspect. This wine manages to show both authority and drinkability in one very young package. No really overt oak character and at €17 from the Giant-Casino supermarket this is a bargain – I bought a few more.
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