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2008 Bouchard Père et Fils, Beaune du ChâteauDec. 2011
Gradually there are some higher, floral tones and eventually a few flashes of tobacco too, but mainly this has a deeper register of dark fruit buttressed by equally dark oak. Round, plenty of sweet depth, just a little cushioning, balanced by close to perfect acidity. There’s plenty of flavour here, but I really can’t find the ‘Beaune’, and that’s because such a large part of the flavour profile is the sweetness of dark oak. Despite that oak, this has quite a measure of elegance – this is a lovely wine – but it needs to shed a lot of non-grape derived flavour before it becomes a lovely Beaune.
2009 Bouchard Père et Fils, Beaune Grèves Vigne de l'Enfant JésusOct. 2011
Medium, medium-plus colour. Some high, tones, even hints of mint over a red and blueberry fruit with vanilla/coconut accents. Sweet, growing in the mid-palate with creamy, ripe fruit and very good underlying acidity. This is large-scaled and very long finishing, but it’s mainly in the vanilla-coconut register, which I find a shame today. Very easy to drink but in a, perhaps, non-Burgundian way. I’m sure that time will cure all my concerns.
1978 Bouchard Père et Fils, Puligny-Montrachet Les PucellesOct. 2011
Golden. No hint of oxidation on the nose; there is some impact but it’s a little foursquare, hints of lanolin escaping from the glass. In the mouth – now we’re talking – good acidity and a lithe impression of restrained power. Decent length too. Belying its 33 years – this is lovely old white burgundy.
2008 Bouchard Père et Fils, Beaune du ChâteauJul. 2011
Sealed with the Diam 10. On first opening there is nothing on the nose save oak-spice, the palate has some density and suggestions of fruit but little else. As the wine aerates and warms there is a short period where the oak and fruit come close to aromatic balance, but afterwards the impression is rather diffuse. Likewise the flavours never offer the focus and intensity that I would hope for and indeed expect. It seems disappointing, yet I’m loathed to discount it – I didn’t like either the 2001 or 2006 at this stage/age yet they improved immeasurably with another 3+ years in bottle – but I don’t think oak was the issue with those wines. Still, to drink today I wouldn’t/couldn’t recommend it. Day 2 and the oak is, if anything, more dominant. I have a couple more to see if I’m (yet again) wrong about this wine.
2007 Bouchard Père et Fils, Beaune Les TeuronsJul. 2010
A domaine wine. Medium cherry-red colour. Wide, slightly diffuse but certainly perfumed red fruit aromas. In the mouth it’s a nice, not too ripe fruit that’s delivered with good texture that has a velvet feel. It’s a long (oak) tannin-led finish. A very good, slightly too young 2007.
2002 Bouchard Père et Fils, Chambertin Clos-de-BèzeApr. 2010
Lovely aromas; red fruit and faint herbs with a minty edge then a depth of darker fruit – bravo. Whilst there are great reserves of flavour, like the last wine today it is the structure that commands attention – lots of mildly grained ripe tannin. Classy all the same.
2008 Bouchard Père et Fils, Chevalier-MontrachetApr. 2010
The aromas are wide, pretty and very interesting, perhaps not with too much depth but the panorama is fine. Wow! It’s a super-supple, silky texture. Real intensity of mineral flavour. Really super. Now I know that the Charlemagnes really were soft, not me!
1988 Bouchard Père et Fils, Le CortonMar. 2010
Hmm I had this two years ago – but at Bouchard. This also starts with quite leafy aromas of undergrowth. Much narrower, this ripples its muscles right from the outset, never really softening up – I only had it in my glass for 30 minutes. The core is of sweet, dark red fruit. Overall mineral and long, but probably drunk 20 years too soon
2002 Bouchard Père et Fils, Meursault PerrièresMar. 2010
Medium level of oxidation – almost, but not quite drinkable…
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