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6 notes
2002 Boillot Jean, Puligny-MontrachetNov. 2006
Drunk directly following the 04 Bouzereau Puligny 1er Champs Gains. Paler lemon yellow colour. Wide, slightly creamy, high-toned nose of citrus-infused fruit. Similar depth if not the ultimate density to the 1er cru wine, but beautifully balanced with an extra dimension of ever widening fruit on the mid-palate. Similar length, but a more interesting and mouthwatering length. Not the cheapest village bottling, but real value, and still drinking very well.
2004 Boillot Jean, Puligny-Montrachet Clos de la MouchèreJul. 2006
Medium lemon-yellow. A nose of baked bread and higher, more diffuse tones. The palate has lovely smooth acidity and a depth of soft but concentrated high-toned fruit. There’s just a quick flash of something that shouts ‘Puligny’ in the mid palate, followed by a long savoury, slightly spicy – perhaps ginger – finish. As usual this is an excellent wine and it’s certainly a ‘buy’, but to drink today I’d put Amoit’s ‘Vergers’ a little ahead based on its fresh citrussy purity and joie-de-vivre.
2001 Boillot Jean, Puligny-MontrachetNov. 2005
Medium golden colour. Lots of oak on the nose, toasted bread, very savoury. The palate hints at an ever-improving waxy, soft texture, good acidity and a very good, savoury length. The intensity is above average for the appellation, giving a nice round feeling in the mouth. Today it’s a little too oak driven for my own taste, but this half-bottle was still sunk quite quickly after a hot game of ping-pong! I’d leave it another 2-3 years before revisiting, as all the material is present for a very above average village wine.
2002 Boillot Jean, Puligny-Montrachet Clos de la MouchèreJul. 2005
As a comparison, I opened this directly after the 02 Jean Boillot villages Puligny. The same medium lemon-yellow. The nose is tighter and less expressive, still deep, but without doubt finer. The palate likewise is a little tighter, with a little more citrus. Where this wine transcends the villages is the haunting finish, it really does go on and on. There we have it, less boisterous than the villages, but with much more finesse and length.
2002 Boillot Jean, Puligny-MontrachetJul. 2005
Medium lemon-yellow. A forward and interesting nose of white blossom and a really inviting, slightly woody depth. Crisp and clean with wonderful acidity and real steely concentration – this is really my type of wine. The finish is medium-plus in length, still with a nod more towards the barrel-maker’s art than Puligny, but this is without doubt a repeat-purchase wine. Excellent villages.
1997 Boillot Jean, Volnay FremietsJul. 2005
Impressively deep colour – quite ruby, no amber at the edge yet. The nose is equally deep, red fruit with a black edge, also hiding in the background is a little toasty oak, but it’s all-but gone. The palate has sweet, fat, ripe fruit, it’s dense, and certainly quite intense. The black aspect on the nose is a little stronger on the palate – good complexity and tannins that hint more to 98 than 97. If there’s a bug-bear it might be the acidity, it seems a little too much to the fore. It’s reasonably fresh, and I’ll leave the last couple for another 3 or 4 years before revisiting.
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