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34 notes
1985 Bertagna, Vougeot Clos de la PerrièreJan. 2011
This showed a little more density and concentration than Bertagna’s 1985 ‘Le Cras’ but was seemingly a little less fine. After 20 minutes in the glass there was a very occasional whiff of something like cork taint. I’m not the most sensitive to TCA, often tasting it before smelling it. This Perrières remained tasty, quite drinkable and nicely in it’s maturity pahase/plateau – but always with a nagging doubt…
1985 Bertagna, Vougeot Les CrasJan. 2011
Medium colour. The nose is edged with a little mushroom but swirl and you fall headlong into a depth of sweet, blood-red fruit – lovely! In the mouth this doesn’t have quite the same fat as either Gevrey, but it has for my taste a nicer balance; the acidity is a little more to the fore, there is a slightly more mineral stance and the mid-palate has a lovely growth of still lacy fruit flavour. More complex and finer if less impact than either Gevrey – but impact isn’t everything – I might look at food to tone-down the Gevreys but I’m savouring this on its own – delicious!
1985 Bertagna, Vougeot Les CrasJan. 2011
Medium colour. The nose is edged with a little mushroom but swirl and you fall headlong into a depth of sweet, blood-red fruit – lovely! In the mouth this doesn’t have quite the same fat as either Gevrey, but it has for my taste a nicer balance; the acidity is a little more to the fore, there is a slightly more mineral stance and the mid-palate has a lovely growth of still lacy fruit flavour. More complex and finer if less impact than either Gevrey – but impact isn’t everything – I might look at food to tone-down the Gevreys, I’m savouring this on its own.
2005 Bertagna, Clos St.DenisApr. 2009
Medium, medium-plus colour. A nose of macerating cherries, slightly alcoholic but focused. Full in the mouth with concentrated fruit and equally concentrated, reasonably fine and ripe tannin. Very nice fruit that hints at an extra creamy dimension and lovely acidity. This wine has plenty of muscle and I wouldn’t hesitate to leave it another 10 years, yet was a tasty wee dram. Very good.
2005 Bertagna, Vougeot Clos de la PerrièreDec. 2008
Deep cherry-red colour. The nose opens with fine, high-toned, red and black berry notes over a deeper, brooding core of fruit – eventually there’s a lovely pure redcurrant note in the emptying glass. In the mouth the acidity starts just a shade bright on the tongue though it contributes to a good, slowly lingering finish. Perhaps it was me, but 30 minutes in the acidity seemed okay. Tight, linear fruit with buried soft tannin and an understated, almost ethereal extra dimension of fruit on the mid-palate that follows also into the finish. Very excellent but other bottles should be left for at least 10 years.
2005 Bertagna, Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Nuits Les Dames HuguettesJul. 2008
Medium, medium-plus cherry red. Frankly I don’t like the nose – it’s quite forward, but it’s mainly the bubble-gum notes of a less than satisfying Beaujolais. In the mouth the acidity is quite bright and the flavours are metallic. As it stands, it’s a big NO! I have to give it a chance, so most waits for day 2: Another day and the bubble-gum is on a slightly lower order, but aromatically the wine is far from interesting. Perhaps not so metallic tasting, but the acidity remains very tart – I don’t mind high acidity, but this is tart high acidity. If represenative (and why shouldn’t it be?) a startling failure for the vintage.
2001 Bertagna, Chambolle-Musigny Les PlantesApr. 2007
Medium ruby-red colour. The nose is quite creamy with toffee-edged understated red fruit and wider higher tones. The palate is rather fine but rather slender; it’s very well textured with faintly grained tannin and really good length. I think it needs a little extra density for stardom, but this is a lovely subtle and complex wine.
2004 Bertagna, Chambolle-Musigny Les PlantesMar. 2006
This also a little tight but shows some sweet red fruit. Fatter with good texture, lovely balance and good length. A very good wine.
2002 Bertagna, Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Nuits Les Dames HuguettesMar. 2006
Medium cherry-red. The nose is very forward; high-toned cherry and quite some depth too. A completely different wine to the 2003 version in that it hasn’t the same level of concentration, but is much more classic and fresh. Very nicely balanced, good acidity and sweet fruit of a concentration that belies the appellation. Understated tannins and a good finish – a hearty recommendation for this wine.
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