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1789 notes
2009 Chandon de Briailles, Pernand Vergelesses Les VergelessesMay. 2012
Medium-plus colour. The nose just bursts with sweet raspberry concentrate – hard to see much more. In the mouth the ripe fruit is tamed a little by good acidity and an understated velvet undertow of ripe tannin – lovely fruit conserve flavour in the mid-palate with a darker, almost licorice, twist as it runs into the textured finish – I would say that this is a rather concentrated wine. Day two and there’s a little of the stems on the nose, aromatically it’s a little less interesting but the palate seems rather stable and easily holds my interest – perhaps with a slight elevation of the tannins too.
2010 Marchand Pascal, Volnay 1er CruMay. 2012
A blend of Angles and Champans which is already bottled. I love the high-toned fruit aromas, but there are also some quite obvious barrel notes padding out the ‘whole’ – they need to fade a bit. There is more tannin than any of the previous wines, but the flavour is also much longer. Currently it’s a shade less elegant than the previous wines, but it has more of everything and has only just been assembled in tank so that might be playing a role.
2010 Marchand Pascal, Chassagne-Montrachet Les Grandes RuchottesMay. 2012
Very different aromas – more depth and with a ripe fruit note at the core. The flavours are far more mineral than the Meursault, texturally this is more about silk than padding. Slowly growing mid-palate flavour eventually shows some creamy inflections in the finish. Yum.
2009 Hospices de Beaune, Meursault CharmesMay. 2012
Cuvée Albert Grivault (Maison Drouhin) Pale golden. A nose of depth, plenty of patisserie too. Slides across the tongue in a silky fashion with very understated acidity, but far from MIA. There is some extract in the mid-palate but it is a ‘slow grower’ rather than a wine of fireworks – seemingly the apogee of flavour is in the finish as the wine continues to widen. As noted, no fireworks, rather a wine for contemplation – and I did contemplate all of it!
1981 Clavelier SA, Nuits St.Georges Les Corvées PagetsMay. 2012
Hospices de Nuits Cuvée Saint Laurent The wine is clear and bright – a good start. The nose is also rather good, there’s a little (not too much) mature leaf and a fainter undertow of ripe fruit – the last drops in the glass are that lovely acid red-cherry. Fine balancing acidity and still some tannin – the flavour is a little subdued before a nice and rather tasty lift in the mid-palate. Decent finishing. I wonder if that rather anonymous opening flavour is down to filtration? Whatever, it is clean and very, very drinkable – a good result
2000 Boillot Jean-Marc, Pommard JarollièresApr. 2012
Medium, medium-plus colour. The nose is as good as it has ever been; close to ripe fruit has a coating of musky/creamy-ness – it’s actually quite interesting. The acidity and associated tannin is tart and a little astringent, but if you swallow quickly, it seems quite okay. I probably needn’t add more…
1992 Comtes Lafon, Monthelie Les DuressesApr. 2012
Beautiful medium-red colour, no obvious browning or bricking. The nose is highly engaging (this time!); a macerating, baked redcurrant note with just the merest hint of a creamy coating – interestingly there’s a little 2004-style pyrazine here too – of ~2/10 green meanie intensity – a level that adds interest, rather than turn the stomach. It starts with a narrow flavour profile, but it’s balanced, indeed fresh – a little time in the glass allows the shape of wine to fill out some. The fruit has just enough ripeness and a very faint astringency (still). I might be tempted to say that I’m drinking this a little young, but I’m finding much of interest here. At a good price I certainly might buy again.
2010 Bouton Gilles, St.Aubin Les ChamplotsApr. 2012
Medium cherry red. Some clean, high-toned and glossy red cherry fruit but overall a bit tight. Fresh, with acid-borne intensity. This wine has both energy and a lovely crunchy fruit. Lovely as it is, and as well priced as it is, I’d be getting my enjoyment this year before whatever padding the fruit may currently be providing fades…
2010 Bouton Gilles, St.Aubin En RemillyApr. 2012
Pale colour. Wide, slightly waxy impression, some faint herbs and with a little yellow fruit too. Fresh, nicely intense with just a hint of mouth-puckering acidity – but not overly so. The flavour of greeen-skinned fruits comes through in mouth-watering fashion. Racy and fun – lovely stuff.
2007 Dublère, Savigny-lès-Beaune Les Peuillets BlancApr. 2012
Medium lemon-yellow. Wide, inviting, clean citrus fruit and flower notes. After the M&M 06 Puligny, this is much more mineral and lithe – as much the vintage as the vines. Lovely acidity is smoothly rendered and underpinning the intensity and leaving a mouth-watering finish. Excellent
2010 Bouton Gilles, St.Aubin la ChatenièreApr. 2012
Pale colour. A hint of oak toast and clean high-toned aromas, slowly it has more of a brioche impression before disappearing completely. Leaner than the Dents du Chien, with a linear minerality – quite some intensity too – a burst of flavour in the mid-palate with a new, faintly sweet herbal note. Understated, lingering finish that’s couched with a subtle sweetness. Great value wine without a doubt.
2010 Bouton Gilles, Blagny Sous Le PuitsApr. 2012
Rather paler colour than previous vintages. The aroma is rather faint but with a warm, slightly dark sweetness. Some silkiness and a decent balance of acidity. The flavour is rather understated, and far from unpleasant – what’s missing is a little concentration and engagement. Quite pretty but missing much of what I expect from this producer’s version. Lifted only by a pretty red cherry fruit in the decently long finish.