Why Big Red Diary?
971 notes
2008 Bouchard Père et Fils, Chevalier-MontrachetNov. 2018
Hmm, a hint of truffle perhaps caramel too, such a good and fresh width of aroma. Quite direct and fresh but intense and with lovely, melting, flavour over the palate. Long, mineral – ooh a great finish!
1998 Bouchard Père et Fils, Chevalier-MontrachetNov. 2018
Just a little more colour than the 2008. More vibration of sous bois and spicy white chocolate. Ooh – extra volume, mineral, very energetic but a more composed energy. So wide, slightly saline – ooh – in a great place right now…
1988 Bouchard Père et Fils, Le CortonNov. 2018
Hmm wide a hint of sous bois bit more flowers. Lovely depth. Hmm a direct wine, a sleek wine, fine textured, long, layered finishing – hyper elegant corton, delicious too, and not lacking any depth. A super 88 vs those of my memory…
1958 Bouchard Père et Fils, MontrachetNov. 2018
Darker almost Sauternes colur. A nose that grows and grows, eventually becoming smoky, almost marmalade, apricot, some nuts and dried fruit – that’s so special. A line of lavour, starting tight, sowly melting tiny complexities over the palate. Vibrant, complex, superb finishing. Maybe the 1998 is the most impressive finishing of all these Bouchards, but all the same, this is simply great wine. In the context of such a poor vintage, can there be a greater wine?
1998 Maume, Mazis-ChambertinOct. 2018
Ooh – here’s a forward nose – lots of volume – with plenty of herb in a large expanse of complexity. Cushioned depth to the palate, considerable concentration, still a grain of tannin. Layered, intense, with waves of flavour, faintly bitter and saline. Never a sweet wine, never a comforting wine – but frankly who cares, this is really super, indeed invigorating stuff. ​
2000 Raphet Jean, Chambertin Clos-de-BèzeMay. 2012
Medium, medium-plus colour. The nose is a real babe – nothing masculine here – cushioned, soft with a super-elegant, yet fresh, perfume of red fruits with just a hint of something musky (dusky?) in the depth that envelopes you – forget the vintage, aromatically this is simply fabulous. Elegance might be a reasonable descriptor for the flavours too; softly textured but with depth and complexity. Fair to say that the palate cannot quite scale the same heights as the aromas but this wine simply left me purring.
1990 Faiveley Joseph, Corton Clos des Cortons FaiveleyMay. 2012
Medium-plus colour – not exactly a spring chicken but doesn’t look its 20 years old either. Some forest floor notes, impressive depth too, some of the notes hinting at old wood. There’s still an undercurrent of chewy tannin, and very good acidity – all the wine’s texture coming from the tannin. You have the impression the flavour will be only medium length, before a powerful reprise of old vanilla and other barrel notes erupts from the depth – becomes exceptionally long, even showing a little dark red fruit. Impressive, indeed compelling stuff, though arguably not that friendly, I might even say young – a wine for the next 30 years…
2010 Marchand Pascal, EchézeauxMay. 2012
After the Corton, here the nose is more obviously complex – a clear Vosne vernacular – but for all that it’s less precise and focused than the Corton – but with width and depth, a wine of scale. In the moth it’s rounder, more visible tannin than the Corton but like all these wines the structure shows restraint even though there’s a faint hint of ‘grab’. Super.
2010 Marchand Pascal, Clos de VougeotMay. 2012
The nose here gives the impression of a bit more muscle and in shape shows more width than depth. Clearly another level of structure on the palate, but those tannins are polished and the flavour is more overtly mineral than fruity. Impressive stuff – the last drops in the glass now show a super-classy red berry note. Despite the polish, proper CV!
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