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The Market

Inexplicable Chablis…

Don’t expect me to explain the market for Chablis to you – it generally leaves me confused! There is a certain lack of wine here in Chablis, and a lot of it sells rather quickly; yet a significant amount of this volume departs the producers’ cellars for less than €7 per bottle for Chablis, and less than €10 for premier crus – for larger orders of-course. The average domaine size in terms of hectares is much larger than in the Côte d’Or, though because of the pricing of the wine, the turnover per domaine is rarely more – only four employees for 80 hectares wouldn’t be uncommon in Chablis. Because of this larger number of hectares per domaine there is often a blurring of lines [….]

The Louis Vuittonification of Burgundy

Burgundy, its market, and the big wall coming: I have to say, extreme lover of Burgundy’s wine and people as I am, I have the fear that harder times lie ahead. I hate to write notes such as this, but whilst my reports of the actual wines of 2014 are laced with joy, my view of their market is becoming ever-darker. Since 2005 there has been a step-change in global pricing. Unlike the decade of the 1990s where there was typically a small price increase each year to cover inflation (plus 5% on the price of the old bottles in the cellar), the prices of some domaines’ wines in the market have tripled – and more – often re-sellers earning much more money per bottle [….]

The Times They Are a-Changin – (repeat)

The Times They Are a-Changin – (repeat)

http://www.bloomberg.com/news/articles/2015-12-02/don-stott-burgundy-collection It’s a sign of the times. Today there’s an apparent lauding of ‘flash wealth’ and narey a critical word over such things. Certainly the linked article seems a celebration of what Stott has, and is, doing. There are, of-course, multiple perspectives to this: Now if Don Stott had been publicly selling these (link above) bottles for charitable ends (maybe he anyway IS!), i.e. doing a Bill and Melinda, or (this week) a Mark and Priscilla, I would have simply applauded. But that’s not the case. It seems to me that this is just the next installment of the mad rush to elevate the pricing of what, for some – and I assume I’m not alone – was a daily staple, to something approaching a [….]

a loose moose – but not for long: faiveley, dufouleur and some musigny…

a loose moose – but not for long: faiveley, dufouleur and some musigny…

Due to the multiple news headlines of the weekend, you would be forgiven for having missed it, but this month, for the first time in many years, a chunk of Musigny changed hands. News of this transaction was broken by the Winespectator, just before the Hospices auction. Anyway, The Dufouleur family were parting with a small piece of the Musigny jigsaw, and Erwan Faiveley (today, right) was waiting with open wallet. The two producers have long had links, indeed not just are their cuveries almost next-door to each other in Nuits St.Georges, François-Xavier Dufouleur and Erwan Faiveley were also at school together. Domaine Dufouleur Frères: This domaine have, for a long time, been exploiting the Musigny vines of Jean Dufouleur, who died this year, over [….]

an hospices sunday…

A view from below of above...

Of-course, there wasn’t just the half-marathon in Beaune this weekend! The auction, despite sombre reflections dedicated to those who lost their lives in Paris, started with full-blast bidding – over-exuberance? – perhaps. Security was certainly in evidence; without the right pass, or the right name to come to the door to your aid, you were not going to get your foot across entrance – and that’s just the way it has to be. There is a certain type of person that will always cause my blood to boil, and whilst waiting to get through the press door, here was one of them; somebody without any credentials was really pissed that he was being ‘held-up’ at the door – he didn’t seem to give a shit [….]

want to buy 2015 hospices?

want to buy 2015 hospices?

Time is running out if you do (of-course!) I have this in my inbox today, and it is, I suppose, an easy (read cheap!) entry into the world of Hospices de Beaune wine – though you won’t get to see your name on the label 😉 Albert Bichot have, for the best part of 15 years (to my personal knowledge) been making great wine, arguably as good as any négoce in Beaune. If you really must have your own name on the label, but hanker for an Australian to look after the elevage for you, drop me a line, as I may have a useful name for you 😉 just click on my name at the bottom of any page, send me a note, and [….]

‘corkscrewed’

Half a billion dollars of fake wine are ‘out there somewhere.’ And that’s only Rudy Kurniawan’s contribution to the pot! Really an important topic for us all…

the latest tastevinage wines…

the latest tastevinage wines…

The list for all those with an interest: Tastevines-2015

Is there a future for this, or other forum(s)?

WARNING – for me, at least, a long-ish post. And because many people will not follow this discussion if it stays on the Burgundy Report forum, I’m also posting it in my Diary 😉 I guess, as background, some of my experience may be mirrored by others, but… I stopped with the forum of erobertparker when the junta closed it down – it was mainly closed due to critique, and much of it both unrepeatable and unnecessary, despite the general undertow of brown-nosing – but it was the best ‘meeting place’ I’ve ever known on the web. I paid a small subscription to go back and delete as many of my previous posts as I could (my freely given content) but much had already been [….]

laurent ponsot’s new ‘shop’ in beaune…

laurent ponsot’s new ‘shop’ in beaune…

I thought this might be of interest to anyone in Beaune/Burgundy/France – it’s (to my knowledge) Laurent Ponsot’s’ first official ‘outlet.’ Attached to the Hotel de Beaune and the Bistro de l’Hôtel is a wine-shop – largely unremarkable in its first 18 months or-so – save for its artwork! They have now upped their game. A range of 1er and GC wines are now available from Laurent Ponsot – and he sets the prices, not the shop. They are not cheap, but in the context of older wines, ex-cellars, there’s no obvious gouging here, and you can even buy his Clos St.Denis TVV on its own – there are cases of different vintages! I saw 1ers from 1997 and 1998 that were about €70. Grand [….]

interesting: mugnier and musigny…

interesting: mugnier and musigny…

Now isn’t this interesting.   Pic stolen from a Facebook post… I have to say that I never really thought of Freddy Mugnier and Château Latour as bed-fellows, though I do understand the ‘stance’ and knowing FM, I’m sure it has nothing to do with the money. But my question is, ‘what does several years mean?’ Even through a ‘cell phone’ baby Musigny is indisputably more fabulous than 99.9% of all other similar age burgundies. Clearly it is a very different experience to drinking a wine at 20-25(+) years-old, but relevant and something that it would be a shame to miss – all in my opinion of-course. I actually believe that most of the ‘wasted’ bottles are those drunk between 3 and 10 years-old, depending on [….]

one (special) day in the climats…

one (special) day in the climats…

Yesterday was a celebration of the successful entry of ‘Burgundy’ into the list of UNESCO world heritage sites. If you have seen some/most of the coverage since this was announced on Saturday, you will have mainly noted that Champagne, also a new ‘inscription’ has taken the headlines, and that only the last paragraph mentions Burgundy. Truth be told, it’s really a sub-set of Burgundy, one that we Anglo-Saxon’s refer to as the Côte d’Or, but the locals will quietly correct you and say that the inscription is actually for the Côte de Beaune and Côte de Nuits – and in this instance, the definition used was Chenove to Maranges – inclusive. And the ‘grounds’ for inscription? To bear a unique or at least exceptional testimony [….]

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