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The Market

bejot – to fraud or not to fraud?

http://www.harpers.co.uk/news/anti-fraud-squad-raids-burgundy-producer-bejot-vins-et-terroirs/534156.article Really there’s not much to be said, or rather that can be said, about the above – yet. I saw the first reports – illegible text and photos from Burgundian newspapers at the end of last week. Here is the first English note of the ‘fraud investigation.’ I’ve met the people from Bejot, and Vincent Sauvestre (right – a very nice man, clearly successful, who has bought many old brands) comes across in this report as a little evasive – I really don’t believe that he doesn’t have a working knowledge of what’s in his tanks – that said he wasn’t present in any of my tastings or technical discussions. It seems to be business as usual for now, but ‘no smoke without fire?’ [….]

joseph voillot now x2 + hospices de beaune echézeax (vv)

joseph voillot now x2 + hospices de beaune echézeax (vv)

It was great to catch up with the (almost) newly expanded team at Joseph Voillot today. Etienne Chaix, the nephew of Jean-Pierre Charlot is due to start full-time at the domaine in April – but today he was roped in, early, for a tasting in Beaune. I know that Jean-Pierre was super-happy to have settled the ‘succession’ of the domaine in this way – and now that he can concentrate on his vines, he is, as you can see, a very happy man – I’m not so sure about Etienne though 😉 ——————————————————————— Then the news I heard yesterday was of a new cuvée for the Hospices de Beaune – an Echézeaux no-less. A tasting this week at Mongeard-Mugneret of Vosne-Romanée, raised the question of [….]

changes at château de pommard…

changes at château de pommard…

Today’s press release from the Château de Pommard. Under their new ownership, they are very much moving forward with a business-centric approach: Château de Pommard builds its international sales network Hires Ann Feely as Chief Commercial Officer Pommard, France 14th March 2016 Château de Pommard is expanding its sales and marketing organization and create an international sales network. Previously, all wines were sold directly from the Château by a dedicated sales team in Pommard. To create the global go-to-market strategy, establish partnerships with agents and importers in key markets and to manage the global sales and marketing team, the Château has hired Ann Feely as Chief Commercial Officer. ”Ann, our Cellar Master Emmanuel Sala and I want to share our unique terroir with the world [….]

a relief for etienne and co…

Of that I’m completely sure… “In 2006, Kurniawan took 250 shares in a partnership created to buy several prestigious vineyards on Burgundy’s Côte d’Or, including some parcels of Beaune premiers crus and the Vosne-Romanée cru Malconsorts. Kurniawan’s shares constituted 22.73 percent of the six-person entity, named Etienne & Partners. The shares entitled each holder to dividends in wine from the vineyards, managed by Etienne de Montille, 53, scion of the Volnay-based de Montille family.” The Wine Spectator

the champions of chablis – this year…

the champions of chablis – this year…

I had breakfast with the redoubtable Allen Meadows on Friday; he’d arrived in Chablis to head the jury for the 30th ‘Concours des vins de Chablis’. He didn’t actually taste the 300+ wines, rather he and fellow jurors were selecting from the best of previously tasted samples. A great, and actually very interesting, list of 2014 Petit Chablis, Chablis and Chablis 1er crus, plus grand crus from 2013 – thanks to the BIVB Chablis for sharing this… 30th Chablis wine Competition results (PDF, 44KB)

Inexplicable Chablis…

Don’t expect me to explain the market for Chablis to you – it generally leaves me confused! There is a certain lack of wine here in Chablis, and a lot of it sells rather quickly; yet a significant amount of this volume departs the producers’ cellars for less than €7 per bottle for Chablis, and less than €10 for premier crus – for larger orders of-course. The average domaine size in terms of hectares is much larger than in the Côte d’Or, though because of the pricing of the wine, the turnover per domaine is rarely more – only four employees for 80 hectares wouldn’t be uncommon in Chablis. Because of this larger number of hectares per domaine there is often a blurring of lines [….]

The Louis Vuittonification of Burgundy

Burgundy, its market, and the big wall coming: I have to say, extreme lover of Burgundy’s wine and people as I am, I have the fear that harder times lie ahead. I hate to write notes such as this, but whilst my reports of the actual wines of 2014 are laced with joy, my view of their market is becoming ever-darker. Since 2005 there has been a step-change in global pricing. Unlike the decade of the 1990s where there was typically a small price increase each year to cover inflation (plus 5% on the price of the old bottles in the cellar), the prices of some domaines’ wines in the market have tripled – and more – often re-sellers earning much more money per bottle [….]

The Times They Are a-Changin – (repeat)

The Times They Are a-Changin – (repeat)

http://www.bloomberg.com/news/articles/2015-12-02/don-stott-burgundy-collection It’s a sign of the times. Today there’s an apparent lauding of ‘flash wealth’ and narey a critical word over such things. Certainly the linked article seems a celebration of what Stott has, and is, doing. There are, of-course, multiple perspectives to this: Now if Don Stott had been publicly selling these (link above) bottles for charitable ends (maybe he anyway IS!), i.e. doing a Bill and Melinda, or (this week) a Mark and Priscilla, I would have simply applauded. But that’s not the case. It seems to me that this is just the next installment of the mad rush to elevate the pricing of what, for some – and I assume I’m not alone – was a daily staple, to something approaching a [….]

a loose moose – but not for long: faiveley, dufouleur and some musigny…

a loose moose – but not for long: faiveley, dufouleur and some musigny…

Due to the multiple news headlines of the weekend, you would be forgiven for having missed it, but this month, for the first time in many years, a chunk of Musigny changed hands. News of this transaction was broken by the Winespectator, just before the Hospices auction. Anyway, The Dufouleur family were parting with a small piece of the Musigny jigsaw, and Erwan Faiveley (today, right) was waiting with open wallet. The two producers have long had links, indeed not just are their cuveries almost next-door to each other in Nuits St.Georges, François-Xavier Dufouleur and Erwan Faiveley were also at school together. Domaine Dufouleur Frères: This domaine have, for a long time, been exploiting the Musigny vines of Jean Dufouleur, who died this year, over [….]

an hospices sunday…

A view from below of above...

Of-course, there wasn’t just the half-marathon in Beaune this weekend! The auction, despite sombre reflections dedicated to those who lost their lives in Paris, started with full-blast bidding – over-exuberance? – perhaps. Security was certainly in evidence; without the right pass, or the right name to come to the door to your aid, you were not going to get your foot across entrance – and that’s just the way it has to be. There is a certain type of person that will always cause my blood to boil, and whilst waiting to get through the press door, here was one of them; somebody without any credentials was really pissed that he was being ‘held-up’ at the door – he didn’t seem to give a shit [….]

want to buy 2015 hospices?

want to buy 2015 hospices?

Time is running out if you do (of-course!) I have this in my inbox today, and it is, I suppose, an easy (read cheap!) entry into the world of Hospices de Beaune wine – though you won’t get to see your name on the label 😉 Albert Bichot have, for the best part of 15 years (to my personal knowledge) been making great wine, arguably as good as any négoce in Beaune. If you really must have your own name on the label, but hanker for an Australian to look after the elevage for you, drop me a line, as I may have a useful name for you 😉 just click on my name at the bottom of any page, send me a note, and [….]

‘corkscrewed’

Half a billion dollars of fake wine are ‘out there somewhere.’ And that’s only Rudy Kurniawan’s contribution to the pot! Really an important topic for us all…

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