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Rebuy – Yes (2006)

three christmas wines (fevre m-gibourg mugnier)

Christmas lunch was a long, leisurely affair. First we took the 2002 Fevre Chablis Bougros as an aperitif, then with food took two Piesporter Goldtropfchens – a 2004 and a 2003 from St.Urbans-Hof – then a couple of new reds: 2002 William Fevre, Chablis Bougros Pale golden. The nose is a pungent mix of faint […]

domaine des varoilles, 2003 la romanée

domaine des varoilles, 2003 la romanée

There are a number of La Romanées, and all have a good reputation. This one hides it’s light under a bushel as it’s a monopole of a relatively little-known producer – but take it from me, the quality is right up there with that of many better-known producers. The vineyard itself is at the ‘end’ […]

d’angerville 1er taillepieds 2002

d’angerville 1er taillepieds 2002

2002 Marquis d’Angerville, Volnay 1er Taillepieds (From magnum) Medium, medium-plus cherry red. The nose starts in a very mineral way with hints of cedar eventually giving way to red berries and a slow build-up of coffee. The concentrated palate bursts with explosive red fruits and plenty of grainy tannin – but there’s no hint of […]

sylvie esmonin, gevrey and clos st.jacques 04

sylvie esmonin, gevrey and clos st.jacques 04

Two excellent 2004’s… 2004 Sylvie Esmonin, Gevrey-Chambertin Vieilles VignesDeep cherry-red colour. Slight reduction can’t hide earthy, creamy blackberry and blackcurrant aspects on the nose. The palate is ripe and again very black-fruity – brambly – and with helpful acidity moves seamlessly through slightly grainy tannin to a black finish edged with cream – maybe a […]

niellon 2004 chassagne maltroie

niellon 2004 chassagne maltroie

2004 Michel Niellon, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Clos de la Maltroie Medium-pale yellow. The nose starts deep with plenty of fresh bread and sweet pear, slowly tightens and becomes higher toned. The palate is fat and full – almost grand cru ‘oily’ – with super acidity, and penetrating intensity that bursts with lime/citrus fruit. Considerable yet understated […]

2003 liger-belair, vosne-romanée

2003 liger-belair, vosne-romanée

I’ve wanted to open this mixed case for a while… 2003 Liger-Belair, Vosne-Romanée La ColombièreMedium-plus cherry-red colour. Deep red, sweet cherry mixed with sweet vanilla oak – the fruit is nicely delineated – provided you keep the temperature below 20°C. Full flavour, perfectly presented with a strong vanilla infused finish – very high quality villages […]

bouchard p & f, 2002 aloxe

2002 Bouchard Père et Fils, Aloxe-Corton Medium, medium-plus cherry-red colour. The nose starts very red, ripe and forward, slowly becoming more interesting – coffee and cinnamon edged. Fresh and sweet, the wine expands in the mouth – nicely lingering flavours. The tannin is very well covered. A very successful and super value wine – heartily […]

françoise & denis clair, saint aubin 2004

françoise & denis clair, saint aubin 2004

These producers have invested in a very nice new ‘livery’ for their 2004’s – much more elegant than their niaive predecessors. 2004 F & D Clair, St.Aubin 1er Les Murgers des Dents de ChienMedium yellow. The nose fresh, just a little savoury and spicy against that citrussy 2004 feel. Medium-intensity with very good acidity and […]

pommard #18

pommard #18

Just to keep you on your toes, I though I should try and slip through another Pommard. Very good it was too! 2003 Louis Boillot, Pommard 1er Les Croix NoiresMedium-plus cherry-red. The nose is wide, eventually high-toned, complex and interesting – provided you keep it cool, otherwise it (like many 2003’s) becomes quite diffuse. Very […]

the bad and the good – chassagne

the bad and the good – chassagne

Two wines – both from Marc Morey. A 2001 that started very subdued and not so interesting, but ended up rather nice – however, I shall start with a worrying ‘turkey’: 2002 Marc Morey, Chassagne 1er MorgeotMedium-plus golden – certainly a worrying colour for one so young. The nose confirms quite a high level of […]

the bad and the good – 2004

the bad and the good – 2004

[Pommard-free posting!] Here in two bottles you can see the two faces of the 2004 vintage in the Côte de Nuits. It’s a rather extreme difference given that the bottles come from the same cellar, and slightly disappointng given that I still have 5 of each in my cellar, but I’m in no rush and […]

pommard #17

pommard #17

Okay, okay! It’s the last pommard for a few days – though I might try and sneak another past you next week 😉 1995 Pousse d’Or, Pommard 1er Les JarollièresMedium, medium-plus ruby-red colour. Bright, ripe red fruit – baked tarts – depth but limited width, the aromas are very persistent. Interesting, concentrated and ripe – […]

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