Chambolle-Musigny – 2013

29.4.2015billn

DSC06368All tasted in the Clos de Vougeot, 16th March 2015.

Every second year, in the year where there is no Grands Jours de Bourgogne, there is this Trilogie tasting. This year it was held in the Château de Clos de Vougeot on the 16th March, and producers from the following 3 villages were represented: Vosne-Romanée, Chambolle-Musigny and Morey St.Denis – though I did note that this year, Morey seemed more modestly represented. According to the event’s printed notes, 72 domaines/producers were to be present – one or two looked missing to me, but it was still plenty!

I should start by saying that I’ve two main issues with events like this; the first is that there are too many people surrounding the various producers’ outposts to make a concerted attempt to taste everything – they were queuing out of the doors even before the proposed starting time – though it was still a little more comfortable than during the Grands Jours. But anyway, you simply wouldn’t have the time, so it’s best to make a plan beforehand. The second issue is that there are anyway, frankly far too many wines for one person on one day – 72 x 5 or 6 samples simply isn’t do-able – one has to have a plan. There is, of-course a third sub-problem associated with the numbers; rather than seriously appraising a particular wine (anyway, not all were bottled) when surrounded by, and maybe also tasting, literally hundreds, it’s better to make a mental note of particular domaines and styles that you want to revisit.

With the above in mind, I chose to attack all the wines of Chambolle – in my opinion, one of the best performing appellations in 2013 – and stick to those 2013-vintage wines.

The wines…

More than 60 wines, tasted exactly in the order noted. I took a break for a coffee after the first 25 or-so, then lunch after nearly 50 and then came back to finish the job. With the coloured (or not) backgrounds I’ll try to bring some separation to the different producers.

Overall, these were wines that showed weight and flavour intensity – and I think many, many will be excellent. Definitely keep an eye out for the wines of Jadot and Felettig – you have been warned!

Maison Boursot Père et Fils
These wines to be bottled in about a month.
2013 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Les Nazoires
Fresh and pretty with some aromatic weight below. Quite some high-toned intensity, almost volatile. Long, perhaps quite extracted but the finish is quite tasty and perfumed.
2013 Chambolle-Musigny 1er les Fuées
Much prettier aromatics, more complex but still with good weight. Wide, fresh, good intensity and fine complexity. Fine perfumed finish. Very good!
2013 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Les Chatelots
The nose is more discreet, with a slowly evolving floral impression. Wide with lovely insinuating intensity and mouth-watering complexity. Just a little more structured but a nice wine that’s a little more mineral in the finish with a hint of salt. Super, but the Fuées is more fun today.
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Maison Bouchard Père et Fils
2013 Chambolle-Musigny
Deep, truffly and intersting with modest but not unappealing oak. In the mouth it seems altogether more toasty. It’s balanced and fresh but a bit too oaky today for me. Complex though.
2013 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Les Noirots
Fresh and attractive with higher tones. Lithe, lovely width and texture, harmonious, long. Excellent and quite mineral. Lovely.
2013 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Les Charmes
Fresh and pretty though quite a modest nose. A much more direct wine with less padding. The main action is from the mid-palate onwards which is fine, mouthwatering and excellently complex. A bit too discreet to start but with lovely finish.
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Domaine Anne et Sébastien Bidault
2013 Chambolle-Musigny Les Herbues
The nose is a little herby but also a little reduced. Fresh and intense – actually, without the reductive flavour I think this would be very lovely. Fine finishing too – yum!
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Domaine François Gerbet (Berthaut)
2013 Chambolle-Musigny Les Plantes
Fine and deeply perfumed nose. Quite silky and interesting. Big flavour in the mid-palate and long and mineral finishing.
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Domaine des Beaumont

2013 Chambolle-Musigny Les Chardannes
Gorgeous nose – the best yet – deep but with flowers too. Cliché Chambolle quintessence. Weighty, a little salted, but fresh and concentrated. Excellent depth of flavour here with a good finish.

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Domaine Arnoux-Lacheaux
2013 Chambolle-Musigny
Swirling coaxes a lovely top note, the nose getting better and better in the glass – yum. Another wine that’s a little salty tinged and shows good texture and growth of flavour. Lovely.
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Domaine Arlaud
Bottled in Januray.
2013 Chambolle-Musigny
This nose is a hint savoury. A very mineral, salted palate wide. An excellent, if not fruit-driven wine.
2013 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Les Sentiers
Here the nose is silkier and more fruit-based. A little padding and a lot of complexity, slowly mouth-watering – discreet in the finish, but long… Good stuff.
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Domaine Amiot Servelle
Bottling will start tomorrow…
2013 Chambolle-Musigny
From multiple parcels.
Fruit and a little herb – slowly gets wider. Good width and nicely mouth-watering – a very good peak of mid-palate flavour for a villages. Very good!
2013 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Les Plantes
Big aromas from the glass, fine, pure gelée dark-red fruit . Wide and with super intensity of fruit, slowly mouth-watering with a faint wrapping of dryness in the tannin. Great finish – lovely.
2013 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Les Charmes
Less open, less focused but still quite pretty. An attack of fresh cool fruit, minerality too, plus a slowly growing weight of complex flavour. A more mineral and direct wine than the last but still quite fruity – yum!
2013 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Les Amoureuses
Not the loudest of noses but this is quietly complex, fruity-floral and appealing. A much more mineral wine than those that went before, plenty of slightly dry tannin too but it coats the palate and has virtually no grain. Narrow in the finish but very long. Very good, but with less obvious appeal than the previous wines today.
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Domaine Jean Tardy et Fils
2013 Chambolle-Musigny Les Athets
Forward and intense fruit aromatics – almost a volatile raspberry in there. Quite intense flavour – impressively fruity yet fresh – a slowly growing richness too. A little rough around the edges but lingers well. An exciting ride for a villages – good personality.
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Domaine Anne et Hervé Sigaut
2013 Chambolle-Musigny Derrière le Four
Deep, quite a dark fruited nose. Bright dark fruit on the palate; growing mouth-watering presence too. Lovely finish – not currently the finest of tannin but its anyway modest tannin. Great flavour!
2013 Chambolle-Musigny Les Bussières
Also a darker fruit here, less forward. Wide and again with a fine mouth-watering flavour that peaks beautifully in the mid-palate before slowly melting on your tongue. A simply lovely wine…

2013 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Les Groseilles
Ouf! A lovely nose – not the widest but with beautiful top and bottom notes – super. More weight, more complexity and lovely intensity – a beauty – and really long too!

2013 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Les Fuées
Fresher, faintly herby. Direct, narrower but then a very fine fruit that’s lissome and filigree. Modest starting, very strongly finishing.
2013 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Les Noirots
Fresh dark fruit but just a little tight. Quite mineral yet with lovely, lovely complexity – a wine that opens ever-wider. Just lovely flavour in the finish, the structure being largely subsumed. Very yum!
2013 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Les Chatelots
A little swirling brings lovely high tones. Lush, wide, plenty of acid-led flavour – lovely – super weight of mid-palate and finishing flavour. Excellent finishing!
2013 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Les Sentiers
A more modest nose, some herb, concentrated and with growing intensity – the tannin is more of a drag. But a very tasty wine…
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Domaine Roblot-Marchand et Fils
2013 Chambolle-Musigny Pas de Chats
A deep, rather dark nose. Bright but balanced – rather high toned but nicely flavoured. Very good in parts.
2013 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Les Fuées
A mix of herbs and red fruits, almost a suggestion of mint. A nice core of fruit – acidity that’s a little less integrated but the finish is super.
2013 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Les Charmes
Again a mix of herb and redder fruit. Fresh, tasty complex and full of interest. Far from the most concentrated or the most elegant – but full of flavour interest! An excellent finish too!
2013 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Les Noirots
A little warmer, riper red fruit and some herb crust. Weight, freshness and plenty of growing complexity here. Good impact of flavour – probably the best of this selection.
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Domaine René Cacheux et Fils
2013 Chambolle-Musigny
From 2 parcels.
The nose is rather modest but the palate has a good weight of flavour and a very good length with just a hint of herb.
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Domaine Cécile Tremblay
2013 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Feuselottes
Modest but pretty and floral aromas. Sweet but with growing intensity and flavour – quite big in the mid-palate and finish and beautifully floral as it finishes too – a wine that starts modestly but slowly wraps its arms around you. Yum!
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Domaine Armelle et Bernard Rion
All of these wines are now in bottle
2013 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Les Echezeaux
Lovely fruit-forward aromas. Quite big, round but a little mineral too. Long finishing and tasty too…
2013 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Les Gruenchers
Fine focused fruit – not the most boastful but very pretty. Round, nicely textured with a hint of cushioning, it grows beautifully in the mid-palate to the finish. Long and perfumed. Very appealing wine – yum!
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Domaine Méo-Camuzet
2013 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Feuselottes
this will be bottled in a few weeks.
Rather modest aromas. Lithe and direct a wine that’s more mineral than fruity. But i find a nice dynamism in the mid-palate. Quite discreet today…
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Domaine Hubert Lignier
2013 Chambolle-Musigny Vieilles Vignes
From 3 parcels, normally there are other cuvees but due to low yields, all were assembled in 13.
Very pretty nose of feminine red fruit (sorry!) Lithe, mineral and with fine energy – growing flavour intensity here – polished and tasty wine, yum!
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Domaine Frédéric Magnien
2013 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Borniques
Lots of colour. Modest but focused nose of darker fruit. Here is more structure, perhaps minerality – really you need to wait for the mid-palate and finish for mouth-watering fruit flavour to unlock itself. Strict to start, lovely to finish.
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Domaine Michel Magnien
2013 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Les Sentiers
Modest aromas – not yet bottled. Nice flavour with a hint of stems (up to 20@%) floral and very good.
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Domaine Thibaut Liger-Belair
2013 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Les Gruenchers
To be bottled in April.
High tones, some flowers – modest but very appealing. Mineral, plenty of structure, but a growing mouth-watering width and indeed intensity of flavour – this becomes ever-more appealing. Just a little oak tannin in the finish, but this is probably gone in 6 months. Very good!
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Domaine Alain Jeanniard
2013 Chambolle-Musigny
From two parcels, still in barrel.
A delicate and attractive nose that’s rather red fruited. Quite concentrated, velvety textured. Just a little drying in the finish today but that will fade, and behind is a lovely mouth-watering fruit flavour. Very good!
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Maison Louis Jadot
Really the two best wines I tasted – side-by-side…

2013 Domaine Gagey, Chambolle-Musigny Les Drazey
Probaby to be bottled the end of June or in July.
Pretty, and delicate nose, perfectly floral – beautiful. Wide, lithe, complex, super acidity, eventually with a little salty tang. Lovely wine not a bit simple in the finish. Excellent!
2013 Domaine Jadot, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Les Fuées
Also fabulously perfumed – more complex, more forward and here with a little oak – super. More structure in the mouth but again lithe, fresh and in this case a bit more mineral. Fine finishing again – great young wines!

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Domaine Olivier Guyot
2013 Chambolle-Musigny Vieilles Vignes
A rather discreet nose – not much to see. More interesting in the mouth – round, concentrated, and with lots of flavour. Gets better and better in mid-palate and finish – starts as nothing but finishes very well!
2013 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Les Fuées
Herbs and fruit, but also a bit too much oak-spice aroma today. Quite large in the mouth with good weight of flavour and a brightness to the fruit. Finishes well but much more directly and intense vs the villages. Not much complexity here today, but plenty of wine…
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Domaine Faiveley
2013 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Combe d’Orveaux
Bottled at the start of March.
A bit of oaky and creamy, some reduction too. Mouth-filling, a little petillant, big in the middle but a little more from oak than anything else. A wine to return to in a couple of years as there’s both balance and weight.
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Domaine Bruno Clavelier
2013 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Les Noirots
Assembled in tank.
Fine high tones with a little oak – quite pretty wine. Nicely intense with fine mouth-watering acidity. Long and interesting in the finish. Very good wine
2013 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Combe D’Orveaux
Similar nose, more sucrosity here but equally fine acidity, indeed it has a very similar shape to the Noirots – though longer, perhaps. Also super.
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Domaine Philippe Charlopin
2013 Chambolle-Musigny
3 small parcels, not yet bottled.
Strident high-tones – definitely a forceful wine. Big in the mouth, sweet too, but like the nose, I find this high toned to an almost volatile level. Very much not my thing, despite a rather nice finishing flavour…
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Domaine Castagnier
2013 Chambolle-Musigny
From Aux Echanges, bottled 10 days, vines planted by great grandfather in 1934.
Quite a forward and intense nose slowly adding fine fruit notes. Fresh, lovely fruit, good intensity and fine mouth-watering flavour. Yum!
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Domaine Fougeray de Beauclair
2013 Chambolle-Musigny Les Veroilles
Form the villages lieu-dit. Already in bottle.
A mix of mint and raspberry – surprisingly appealing! Plenty of structure but also a nice thread of fruit running through the middle. Herby but sweet flavoured – quite complex and long. Tasty wine.
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Domaine Henri Felettig
2013 Chambolle-Musigny
From about 20 different parcels dotted around the village but accounting for 3 hectares of vines – all destemmed – bottled 1 month.
Pretty lightly oaked aromas. Nicely intense, growing roundness, a little tannin in the centre before a lingering, tasty, sweet fruit. Fine…

2013 Chambolle-Musigny Clos le Villages Monopole
Just a little deeper colour. Nicely deep but also with crisp and clean fruit. Fresh, cool fruit that’s nicely mineral and beautifully complex – not a padded wine but a gorgeous one. Very, very super!

2013 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Combottes
3 days in bottle.
Just a little reduced. Sweet, round but beautifully detailed, fine lingering flavour – super!
2013 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Les Fuées
2 parcels, one touching Cras, the other Bonnes-Mares.
More modest aroma but seemingly a little polished. Big, fruity and sweet but with a fine acidity and energy. Long and super-tasty.
2013 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Les Feuselottes
Pretty high-toned notes. Fine, direct, sweet mouth-watering flavour that slowly widens – lots of energy and freshness here. Super. Just a hint of oak texture in the finish.

2013 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Les Carrières
The only bottler of this 1er.
Pretty high tones and fine focus, faintly floral – picture-perfect Chambolle. Intense, fine focused fruit with beautiful mid-palate intensity and finishing flavour. I love the style here – really super-yum!
2013 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Les Charmes
Fresh, some herbs, some oak but also sweetness of fruit. Fine freshness and lithe fresh fruit of tension and interest – today wrapped in a hint too much oak/tannin texture, but tons of potential here!

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Domaine AF Gros
2013 Chambolle-Musigny
Bottled.
A high toned nose, faintly woody, but nicely sweet. Quite big in the mouth, intense – impressively intense – the flavour going long into the finish. Tasty…
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Domaine Jean Grivot
2013 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Combe d’Orveaux
Pretty high-toned red fruit compote. Fresh, nicely intense, almost petillant with a slowly growing tannin but this tannin is modest in both volume and texture. Darker fruit in the finish – a little more structured than some but has plenty of well-packaged material. Very good.
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Domaine Odoul-Cocquard
2013 Chambolle-Musigny
Will be bottled inn 1 week from 5 parcels.
Lovely high tones – pretty fruit and flowers. Fresh, wide, intense and vibrant. A little finishing tannin but this is super villages Chambolle.
2013 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Les Baudes
Again a fine floral and fruit combo – faintly oaked below, but very inviting. Fresh and wide – quite intense too. There’s more structure here -but I suppose that’s as it should be. Fine finishing flavour – fine wines here. Lovely finish.
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Domaine Perrot-Minot

2013 Chambolle-Musigny
A fine, pretty and complex Chambolle nose. Round, super balanced, complex wine. Very Chambolle and, despite its good concentration, has beautiful balance. Really super, indeed executive villages…

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Domain Jacques Prieur
2013 Musigny
Well, it’s in Chambolle, no…? Not yet racked into tank.
Modest aromatics. Not the biggest wine, but one of aching complexity and with beautiful spice. It’s really just a discreetly pretty nose, delicate yet detailed, but it completely fills the mouth – super! – wide and with an uncommon spice.

Agree? Disagree? Anything you'd like to add?

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