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remoissenet 2007 volnay clos des chênes

remoissenet 2007 volnay clos des chênes

Monthélie or Volnay – clearly a label-drinker would go for the latter, but comparing this 2007 Clos des Chênes with the 2007 Les Duresses of the other day, I’d certainly take the Monthélie for drinking now… 2007 Remoissenet, Volnay 1er Clos des Chênes Just a little more than medium colour. The nose starts rather chunky and lumpen – the flavours are quite a contrast – decent weight, just hint of padding and a nice level of acidity – I like the freshness and overall shape, though the fruit is more roast than primary. Slowly (it takes over 1 hour) the aromas start to straighten up, the perfume is pungent but certainly it’s still perfume. The flavour has good length and sucrosité – it’s tasty wine, [….]

la gibryotte 2006 gevrey-chambertin

la gibryotte 2006 gevrey-chambertin

The 2006 Nuits from the other night was so good, I thought I might try another 06. Claude Dugat has quite a following, and prices to match. ‘The kids’ of Claude have a small négoce operation and this label is part of that. Not for a second would I describe this wine as cheap, but it is half the price of Claude’s villages Gevrey-Chambertin – yet it is really excellent! 2006 La Gibryotte, Gevrey-Chambertin Medium, medium-plus colour. The first sniff is lactic, but it hangs around only long enough for that one impression – afterwards there is fresh blue-black fruit and just a hint of pencil-lead-style minerality – aromatically it’s flexing lean but powerful muscles. Wide, fresh and with a baseline of slightly dry but [….]

fwob…

A small update here…

2012 views

From Mark Haisma and Elden Burgundy.

1991 rully – jacqueson’s grésigny

1991 rully – jacqueson’s grésigny

I already know what you’re going to say: “My, my Bill, that’s rather darkly coloured, isn’t it!(?)” And I suppose that would have been expected of twenty year-old white Rully, even before the current oxidative paradigm – yet, there is no oxidation here – the chromophores (or auxochromes) responsible for this colour have nothing to do with the aromas and tastes of Jerez. 1991 H et P Jacqueson, Rully 1er Grésigny Medium, medium-plus golden-yellow. The nose shows some toasted bread and a faintly caramelised lemon. In the mouth there is an impressive intensity of flavour – starting narrow but forging wider and wider. The acidity is rather understated – like an average 2006 – but it comes more to the fore in the mid-palate, emphasising [….]

hudelot-noellat 2006 nuits st.georges les murgers

hudelot-noellat 2006 nuits st.georges les murgers

It’s been a while since I opened a 2006, and given that I thought Nuits/Vosne to be the very epicentre of 2006 quality – where better to start(?) 2006 Alain Hudelot-Noellat, Nuits St.Georges 1er Les Murgers Medium-plus colour. The nose is deep and dark-shaded with almost black cherry notes to the fore – let the glass drain and there are beguiling red fruit notes too. Despite being at an ‘awkward’ age, there is still some padding to the texture, and the high-toned dark fruit has a real underpinning of tannin and acidity – currently they have a fine balance, despite the tannin’s texture being just-about the wrong side of velvet – but it’s a lovely package, really lovely. Surprisingly open and giving right now; more [….]

louis chenu 2010 savigny 1er aux clous

2010 Louis Chenu Père et Filles, Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Aux Clous Barely medium colour. The nose is lovely: lot’s and lots of red berries, shaded to raspberry, but with an undertow of something faintly earthy and mneral. Surprising intensity here (after the colour – such is Burgundy!) – there is so much flavour here, strawberry/ raspberry fruit (again) underpinned with that earthy mineral note that shows on the nose. Just a first class balance here: faintly padded texture and lots of flavour. At twice the price, this would be something of a bargain! Rebuy – Yes

1983 red meursault – prieur clos de mazeray

1983 red meursault – prieur clos de mazeray

This Meursault had a very smelly cork indeed – had me thinking oxidised, but I won’t say ‘premature’! 1983 Jacques Prieur, Meursault Clos de Mazeray The colour is certainly aged, but mercifully the aroma seems to have little to do with the cork. The aromas start a little murky, then there’s home-made lemonade(!), slowly but surely a decent red berry note comes into focus, underpinned by a leafy note that seemingly adds texture – this just gets better and better. Lithe, slightly lean in stature as the acidity has an element that isn’t completely ripe, but overall – no great problem. There’s decent enough concentration and an (overall) interesting glass of wine – the fruit seems to have just enough sweetness to make me want [….]

comtes lafon 2007 monthélie les duresses

comtes lafon 2007 monthélie les duresses

2007 Comtes Lafon, Monthélie 1er Les Duresses Medium, medium-plus colour. The nose starts a little burly but settles down, softening with time in the glass: fine red fruit and a Volnay-esque perfume – very nice indeed! Lithe, lovely acidity, slowly growing, fresh mid-palate flavours – you will hardly note any tannin – this is really on a much higher level than I had assumed. Lovely wine – for me this is always the ‘value’ (red) cuvée chez Lafon. Rebuy – Yes

in defence of auction houses (?)

The thoughts of Maureen Downey. [Archived]

2010 jc boisset aloxe les valozières

2010 jc boisset aloxe les valozières

After the corked Jadot I had to quickly find a substitute… 2010 JC Boisset, Aloxe-Corton 1er Les Valozières Only medium young colour. The nose surprises you after the modest colour – actually, it doesn’t so much surprise you as punch you in the face! Pungent, rather tarty, over-perfumed cherry fruit, and even the impression of a little alcoholic ‘burn’. In the mouth there’s quite a contrast: it’s rather composed, stylish and finely textured – there’s even a hint of minerality dovetailing with just-about perfect acidity, acidity that provides a lift to the high-toned fruit flavour of the mid-palate. The finish rolls modestly off the tongue but begs another sip. This wine is just a box of surprises! Given enough time, the nose is more composed [….]

louis jadot 1998 beaune les grèves

1999 not so good? Hmm, Bill – why don’t you try the 1998 and let us know what you think? Well that’s a good idea – thanks – I will! 1998 Louis Jadot, Beaune 1er Les Grèves Corked to bits! Bugger! Rebuy – No

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