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cremant de bourgogne – something for christmas…

cremant de bourgogne – something for christmas…

It’s a little while since I last delved (publicly) into crémant. Those nice people of Louis Bouillot have nevertheless thought it worth asking my opinion of two new bottles, though I note that one is the same as before – zero dosage, single vineyard – and it has rounded out rather nicely. I have to say that both are very drinkable and I really should delve into crémant a little more – but I see no opportunity before the summer… Funnily enough, the more modest bottle was the one that had (non-wino) friends more impressed, the second, grander bottle they described as ‘too winey’ – interesting! Personally for chatting and drinking with nuts and canapés I suppose I agree with all my friends – the [….]

jean-marc pillot 2010 chassagne-montrachet clos st.jean

jean-marc pillot 2010 chassagne-montrachet clos st.jean

2010 Jean-Marc Pillot, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Clos St.Jean Medium-plus colour. High-toned dark fruit with herbs – seems quite Chassagne. If the nose hints at Chassagne, the flavours shout it – sweet dark fruit with a spicy depth and eventually a little barrel flavour as you hit the end of the mid-palate into the finish. Very good length too. Actually, it’s so Chassagne that I’d wait at least a year or two to tone it down – but very tasty it is… Rebuy – Yes

david clark’s côte de nuits villages 2010

david clark’s côte de nuits villages 2010

2010 David Clark, Côte de Nuits Villages Medium colour – one might say relatively pale for such a youngster. Quite shy but some pretty red high tones peek through – strawberry. Quite smooth, then the acidity is next in-line before a twist of understated tannin. Clean and tasty with fresh red-fruit flavours. Understated, modest and elegant. Drinks all too quickly… Rebuy – Yes

vaudoisey-creusefond 2010 pommard croix blanche

2010 Vaudoisey-Creusefond, Pommard Croix Blanche This started way too unripe and acidic – or so it seemed. I ate something and there seemed better, indeed acceptable balance. The nose is high-toned with occasional flashes of perfect red fruit. Eventually there is some sucrosité to the flavours, despite plenty of acidity – but the acidity coupled to the (admittedly understated) astringency of the tannin is quite mouth-puckering. I can drink it, I can even appreciate it, but I can’t bring myself to recommend it… Rebuy – No

michel noëllat 2010 vosne-romanée

michel noëllat 2010 vosne-romanée

2010 Michel Noëllat, Vosne-Romanée Medium, medium-plus colour. The aromas are of barrel spice and (much fainter) vanilla – there’s just a suggestion of background reduction enhancing the depth of the nose too – whatever all that-lot sounds like, it’s quite appealing. Understated concentration – the acidity slowly wells bringing more fruit-flavour – again accented with vanilla. Very good texture with fine-grained tannin. The overall impression – regardless of all those barrel descriptors – is a wine of sweet succulence and deliciousness! Rebuy – Yes

philippe livera (tilleuls) 2010 gevrey clos village

philippe livera (tilleuls) 2010 gevrey clos village

2010 Philippe Livera (Domaine Tilleuls), Gevrey Chambertin Clos Village Quite deeply coloured. The nose instantly brings one word to mind – wow! Deep, cushioned a little spicy with an espresso top. Despite the significant contribution from the barrels, this is setting high expectations. In the mouth it’s clear that the wine can’t deliver those grand cru expectations, but here is good concentration, a little (okay, quite a lot) astringent tannin and nice, ripe fruit flavour. The acidity is understated and mouth-watering. This is rather barrel-influenced, as you will have gathered, it’s also reasonably structured but it’s also very good. Rebuy – Yes

murat 2010 bourgogne hautes côtes de nuits les herbues

2010 Herve Murat, Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Nuits Les Herbues Deep, perfumed nose, probably a few stems here – but very modestly so. In the mouth this is wide and filled with high-toned red fruit – probably a little CO2 to lose given the edge to the texture. There is just a faint astringency to the tannin but it drags across your tongue rather than offering a grain. The fruit in the finish is an unusually direct morello-style cherry edged with a little herb. Very interesting and a wine that I’d definitely buy again. Day two and it has become withdrawn and a little sullen – most of its interest has diminished. Drink-up on day 1! Rebuy – Yes

my 1st christmas card – from la brunelle

my 1st christmas card – from la brunelle

Sent by a friend visiting the owners of La Brunelle on Monday – lucky them!

david clark’s last passetoutegrains

Of-course David sold his PTG so this is the last vintage – seems a good match for rösti and sausage I think! 2010 David Clark, Bourgogne Passetoutgrains A little reduction hangs around for no more than 2-3 minutes – good! Round, with reasonable depth, the aromas give little of their mixed parentage away, though eventually I try to convince myself that the red fruit might have some gamay about it but you’d only spot it with 20:20 hindsight! The high-toned fruit in the mid-palate seems pure pinot to me – and lovely it is too. The tannin and acidity form good supporting roles; just a hint of bitter chocolate effect in the finish – most-likely barrel-derived – but the succulent flavours over-ride it. Lovely wine, [….]

tim’s take on 2011…

Here. I might disagree about his ranking i.e. better vs 2001, 2002, 2006 (though is he talking about red or white?), but I think there are good infos here. Clearly he’s not sensitive to pyrazine though…

bouchard père & fils 2009 beaune du château

Earlier this year, I was so happy to see that BP&F’s 2010s had been shorn of their coats of toasty oak – instead I could taste and smell the wines. It seems from this wine, it may have been an abrupt change – this 2009 is everything that I found disappointing about those 2005-2008 wines… 2009 Bouchard Père, Beaune 1er Beaune du Château DIAM 5. Wow – this has a real slug of overt toastiness on the nose – even after one hour it is the boss of the show – only the last drops in the glass begin to offer a cleaner red fruit note. In the mouth this has great acidity, well-controlled tannin and an extra (besides oak) width of flavour in the [….]

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