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le grappin 2011 savigny

2011 Le Grappin, Savigny-lès-Beaune The tight-fitting DIAM 5 only slowly lets loose its grip on the neck. The colour is medium-plus red, hovering around purple at the rim. On the nose there’s a clear P2 but it is sufficiently nested in the overall aromas that it is more of a smudge than a stain. In the mouth this starts rather rumbustious – it’s really going in all directions – I’ll let it rest a while. Forty minutes later the nose plumbs new, almost textured depths, and its behaviour has improved in the mouth: Really, really good extension and dimension of flavour here. There is a decent base of acidity – and tannin too – not many from 2011 can say that. Even for me this [….]

2000 – vivant?

2000 – vivant?

There was a time when such bottles were easy to come by, not so today, but that’s no reason to forget: 2000 Hudelot-Noellat, Romanée St.Vivant It’s a long cork, and just as well, a red line follows a crease almost to the very end – not much time to spare I think! Medium-plus colour. The nose offers plenty of turned, dry leaves – this seems a H-N speciality! – below is a dark plummy core and some green vegetation. In the mouth this is the antithesis of most 2000s, less obviously ripe – both fruit and tannin – but with a certain grand cru volume and intensity. It’s a velvet tannin but still edged with astringency, the finishing flavours are quite long with a little [….]

dancing with digioia-royer

dancing with digioia-royer

I may have had something sweet before this, but it was never going to put this wine in the shade. 2010 Digioia-Royer, Hautes Côtes de Nuits Medium-plus colour. The nose starts with a bit of fizz but is short-lived and replaced with dark-skinned cherry. The first instinct is that the acidity is on the bright side but then you’re engulfed by flavour, not too sweet, and dark-fruit shaded. This is a dancer that doesn’t wait for you to make up your mind, it just plucks you from your seat and twirls you around. Smooth texture, understated tannin – be prepared to dance! I’d drink it young to enjoy every bit of its energy! Rebuy – Yes

Domaine Hubert Lamy

lafarge – you can lead a horse to water…

But first, happy new year to all of you who accidentally (or otherwise…) end up on these pages. In the spirit of 2013-ness, here is a small collection of New Year ‘cards’ from some people you may know and love – note there were others too, but why would I want a boring picture of their bottles in my inbox? – note for next year, send me a real bottle ! But let’s return to those lovely people, the Lafarges: This is the last of three bottles bought at auction: The first was irreparably damaged by oxidation, the second was quite drinkable – indeed good for a 1986 – and then there was this one: 1982 Michel Lafarge, Volnay 1er Clos des Chênes Once-more, the [….]

the holiday season – please expect tumbleweed…

the holiday season – please expect tumbleweed…

Until January – may you all be happy with your (wine!) choices…

philippe livera (tilleuls) 2010 gevrey en champ

2010 Philippe Livera (Domaine Tilleuls), Gevrey Chambertin En Champ Deep colour. The nose starts with a deep waft of cushioned, dark oak – it really needs about 30 minutes for this to fade to ‘acceptable’ for my palate – but by which time, the wine is much more than acceptable! A dark cherry aroma is slowly allowed to take centre stage as the oak fades. Very understated fine tannin and beautiful acidity support dark, intense and rather elegant (for Gevrey) flavours. There’s a succulence to the mid-palate fruit-flavour that almost rushes you into taking another sip. The finishing note is part mineral, part bitter oak but quite attractive. Excellent villages! Rebuy – Yes

an ‘xmas’ card

an ‘xmas’ card

From Jean-Michel Chartron…

pierre damoy 2002 chapelle-chambertin

Well, it’s almost Christmas, so why not another one! Overall, I have a preference for the 1996 today… 2002 Pierre Damoy, Chapelle-Chambertin Medium-plus colour. The nose starts with a blast of reduction, but it doesn’t stick around for very long. What remains is a heavy whole cluster aroma that twists and turns with almonds and warm Bakewell tart. In the mouth this has a strong core of flavour but perhaps the outlying flavours are a little more diffuse – still the acidity and concentration are rather good. The tannin is completely understated but searching for it seems to pronounce the whole cluster flavours. A wine that wears its fermentation on its sleeve – but it is rather good! Rebuy – Yes

annual vintage chart update

Vintage Chart updated today…

michel lafarge 1986 volnay clos des chênes

michel lafarge 1986 volnay clos des chênes

After the Damoy ’96, why not go back another 10 years! 1986 Michel Lafarge, Volnay 1er Clos des Chênes The cork slides far too easily out, but in one piece and it doesn’t smell too oxidised. Just a hint more than medium colour. Like the Damoy of last night, there is a faint twist of beefy brett, but on a way lower level – the precise red berry fruit literally sweeps it aside – overall an interesting nose but not one that keeps drawing your nose to the glass. In the mouth this has just a little cushioning to the velvet-soft texture, and an acidity that is balancing but slightly too emphasised in the mid-palate. The fruit still has sweetness and interest – this is [….]

maranges, santenay, savigny & pernand

Plus the syndicat de gevrey 2011s – and of-course more 2011s – it must be the Autumn report!

pierre damoy 1996 chapelle-chambertin

pierre damoy 1996 chapelle-chambertin

Always good to check in on an old vintage to see how things are going – rather well for 1996 GCs if this is anything to go by… 1996 Pierre Damoy, Chapelle-Chambertin Medium-plus colour. Deep, almost liqueur nose, slowly developing leaf note stays very much in the background – eventually something more beefy presents itself, perhaps brett, but we’d finished most of it before then Padded, concentrated, a lovely core of intense fruit – there is even a floral element in there that implies whole clusters. The acidity is uplifting, but not obviously of 1996. Very understated tannin. This is a full and frank wine that entertaining as it is today, still needs 4-5 years I think – hopefully that brett doesn’t get worse! Rebuy [….]

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