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billn

cold, zalto, riedel…

cold, zalto, riedel…

Ouf! Thursday was cooler – we’ve lost 10°C in 12 hours! Thursday had a brilliant sunrise (for those heading for early appointments in Maranges!) but stayed very cloudy until late afternoon. By 4pm there were the first flashed of blue sky – but don’t tell the people of St.Romain – it was already black as night when I left there! In the evening I had a little play with, comparing a Zalto, a Riedel and a 2004 Volnay Champans from Count of Lafon. I didn’t find any pyrazines with either glass, but the aromas were a little more herbal in the Riedel versus the more floral and prettier Zalto. 1:0 to Zalto. In the hand though, I found the Zalto stem disconcertingly narrow and it [….]

chevalier for breakfast…

chevalier for breakfast…

Well, somebody has to do it! This morning the wind had dropped, but there was also a more noticeable chill: 7°C at 07h30. The light was lovely though, and the vines haven’t yet lost all their leaves from the wind! A mix of grander and ‘insider’ domaines today, including one that previously ‘could do better.’ I was invited for lunch – a shock I know – I’m unrepentant, but I don’t have a list of commercials ‘things’ that I have to avoid on my site, so I’m allowed – I consider myself too grown up for that 😉 Back to my apartment in the evening, it’s still chilly – I will have to jog faster – but first, it’s time to eat the Bolognese that [….]

every week until christmas!

I arrived in Beaune today, just like I will every week from now until Christmas – some weekends will spent here along the way too. There are just so many 13s to taste and put into some sort of digestible format before the en-primeur offers hit your mailboxes – mainly in January, but some of the schemers (merchants!) are now even sending out their offers in December! Actually I’d prefer to do all these tastings exactly as I have this year: I mainly tasted the 12s after assembly or bottling. But now I’m up and running with the ‘EXTRA!’ report, readers won’t wait for that – reduced or fizzy people want to know: to buy or not to buy, as Will S would say… It’s [….]

pavillon’s 2012 rugiens

pavillon’s 2012 rugiens

Back into my ‘arrivage‘ stash of 2012 EP wines. I paid a little more for this than previous vintages as I knew it had been decimated by hail, but (Will L!) it still came in at £33 per bottle, delivered to my door… 2012 Domaine du Pavillon, Pommard 1er Rugiens A deep, almost silky nose of red fruit and some creamy oak complexity. In the mouth there’s good, smooth, power and concentration – good balance too. The fruit is more red than black and shows a nice peak of flavour in the mid-palate – slowly fading on a little vanilla augmentation again. The Bichot house style shows through with this vanilla – though you only get in bottles, not the pre-bottling samples. Still, I’ve tasted [….]

disappointing ‘wine-writers’

The caveat here, is that I’m talking about some ‘generalist’ wine-writers who occasionally dip their toe into a region, tasting at a few well-manicured addresses, probably sponsored by some ‘body’ or other, and back that up by tasting a bunch of grand crus that start at €100 a bottle. I’ve not been involved in a similar roughing of Twitter feathers before, but these two troll-esque tweets (from writers with over 40k of twitter followers) annoyed me just as much as previous Decanter (harvest) stories that seemed, at the same time, sensationalist yet lacking any real depth of comment or apparent knowledge: Well, that’s my perjorative, clearly biased opinion based on what I read, anyway 😉 Packing for Burgundy. Can't help but feel this a #wine [….]

great article from jancis…

From Jancis on the changing face of Burgundy ownership…

patrice et maxime rion’s 2012 chambolle fuées

patrice et maxime rion’s 2012 chambolle fuées

I’m delving into my small but perfectly formed ‘arrivage’ of 4 different 2012 en-primeurs. The white Pernand-Vergelesses Clos Berthet from Dubreuil-Fontaine is already two great bottles down – only 4 left – will they see out 2014? – maybe not! Today there’s the Fuées from Patrice Rion – I note that son Maxime now has his name on this négoce label too! 2012 Patrice et Maxim Rion, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Les Fuées Hmm. A faint whiff of oak spice but it’s engulfed by smooth, dark-red fruit of fine depth – yum – even before it hits the tongue. Super-smooth on the palate with a faint undertow of oak, but such is the fineness of texture I expect even an oak-a-phobe will be purring. Full, round, and [….]

birthday, sights and wines…

birthday, sights and wines…

Tuesday was an early start from Basel – we were in London by 09h00. Breakfast, hotel check-in, then to Fine + Rare wines for a fine and rare tasting; 38 bottles of 2011 Clos de Vougeot. Notes will be in My October EXTRA! by 20th November. Did I mention a hotel check-in? I was led into the Shangri-la at the Shard, it wasn’t the hotel I thought we’d booked – what a birthday surprise! And, of-course the Clos Prieur was good!

Final Day Hautes-Cotes Pinot fruit

the return of the mark: part last…

ARLAUD VENDANGE, Wednesday, 24th September 2014 By now I was really wondering just when we were going to finish as there seemed to be no sign. I was acutely conscious my Channel ferry back to the UK was booked for Friday lunchtime, delaying was not an option, and I was also keen to undertake various wine collection/pursuit errands I’d agreed to undertake for mates in the UK (two of whom are regular Burgundy-Report readers). As part of my vendange its always my aim to try and have at least one, if not two days post vendange for what I call ‘me time’ i.e to allow me to wind down and spend time for myself exploring parts of the Cote, visiting friends in the vigneron community [….]

weekend walks…

weekend walks…

Okay, last weekend was Emmental, this week it was Graubunden. Yesterday it was beautiful, Saturday and today not so! Tomorrow it’s a tasting in London – ouf!

warmth, flies and the colours of autumn…

warmth, flies and the colours of autumn…

This week in the côtes I have begun my attack on the 2013 whites – already some lovely wines to recommend. It’s also remained very unseasonably warm – almost 25°C. There was a measure of respite on Friday afternoon – the heavens opened – lots of rain! But this week, people have been very busy with ‘decuvages’ – basically emptying their (red) fermentation tanks and literally digging out the solid mass of grape and stem residue in the bottom of their tanks. Hot and sticky work! There is also no respite yet from the season’s (drosophila) fruit flies – there are some suzukis about, but mainly it is the traditional European version… The vineyards are taking on a beautiful colour right now, it’s a shame [….]

too soft? good! rain and comfy goats

too soft? good! rain and comfy goats

Apparently this is a négoce wine from Arlaud – or maybe not – see Mark’s comment… 2012 Arlaud, Bourgogne ‘Oka’ Good, medium-deep colour. The nose is fresh but with a lovely bright and mainly red fruit nose note – it’s very inviting. In the mouth too there’s the same gorgeous fruit note – but – seemingly nothing else, just a fruit cordial impression. I should note that this wine came out of the fridge as we were enjoying 20°C+ temperatures. I decided to let it warm in the glass. Whilst still not very structured, the wine tightens up and certainly shows a little more grip as gets nearer to room temperature. The fruit remains lovely, quite unruffled by any fuss about serving temperature. A tasty-enough [….]

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