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billn

muggy, warm chassagne…

muggy, warm chassagne…

First visit in Chassagne-Montrachet this morning, 09h00. Overnight there’s been a little rain – dirty rain – my car is filthy. It’s muggy and warm and storms are once-more forecast – many, many fingers are crossed! A short tour of the vines shows that Chassagne was very lucky last weekend – very little of the potential crop was spoiled by the hail – probably no more than 5%. Their fingers remain firmly crossed, remembering that they lost almost 70% in 2012 to hail and other maladies… Chassagne, today:

i can see you…!

i can see you…!

Spotted – or rather first heard! – in Meursault Perrières today. I’ve been touring the vines – some in reasonable condition, some are very sad – pockets of vines in Pommard and Beaune seem particularly hard hit, some have more grapes left than leaves! It’s early enough (the hail) that split and damaged grapes will have plenty of time to dry out and drop off, but the rest will need new leaves to do the necessary photosynthesis… Plus a few views from this morning:

burgundy report – extra!

The May issue is online for subscribers. Lots of new faces in this issue – and some old ones 😉

sober, sombre reflection…

sober, sombre reflection…

To take stock, it’s always better to take a step back – emotions can be raw in the first minutes / hours after such an attack. My experience of the hail on Saturday was in the Place Carnot in Beaune. It started at 17h10 with heavy rain – then for 3-4 minutes there was hail too – big enough pellets to hurt, but modestly sized – say 1+cm in diameter. Of-course, it turned-out that was only the first wave. Fifteen minutes later it hit again, but this time the first notice was the hail, not rain, and this time the projectiles were the size of a 2 Euro coin – they can also damage your body as you can see below – the clusters on [….]

how far are you going?

how far are you going?

Santiago de Compostela. Beaune still really is the crossroads of Europe it seems. In the hotel today I met a couple who were clearly on a walking tour – today they were walking ~4 hours to Chagny. But actually their final destination was a good deal further away – the Santiago de Compostela – in Spain! Oh, and that’s not the closest part of Spain either! Historically, Beaune was an important stopping-off point in many a pilgrimage and it seems that for some people, little has changed. The owner of my hotel has a special stamp for these people’s notebooks/routebooks to register that they were in Beaune. People start from as far away as Bonn or Strasbourg, she says. But normally they don’t do it [….]

all change at l’arlot…

This was in the ‘post’ today. Lots of speculation about Jacques’ destination – some say Morey St.Denis 😉 Change of Technical Director at Domaine de l’Arlot: a smooth transition After three very successful years at Domaine de l’Arlot during which he has contributed a great deal to the life of the property, Jacques Devauges has received a proposition to take charge of a another major vineyard in Burgundy which he felt he could not refuse. He will take up his new responsibilities in January 2015. We are happy to announce the arrival of our new Technical Director, Géraldine Godot, who will be joining us at the beginning of September. This means that there will be a very smooth transition between Jacques and Géraldine as they [….]

weekend wine / monday weather

weekend wine / monday weather

Some lovely wines at the weekend. Collet’s (Chablis) first vintage of Crémant is super and for a mere €8.40 from the domaine too! Gambal’s Dents du Chien is, you already know, a long-time favourite of mine. The 2011 is firmly in that traditiion – yum! Then, two from 2006, and they were super. The Morey is the most impressive aromatically with iron, mineral and cherry, the Vosne takes over in the concentrated sweet palate. A really super pair – 2006s seem in quite a good place right now – if these are anything to go by! Today, I was early in the car, heading t the Côtes. Warm and sunny at 07h00 in Switzerland, it was sullen and cooler in Chassagne when I arrived – [….]

1962 chambolle-musigny

1962 chambolle-musigny

There were three of these in the auction lot I bought last year, the first had good colour, and a nice balance, but far too much oxidation to make a second pour. On Saturday night this, however, was different. 1962 Selection Banderole Grise (Caves Mövenpick, Suisse), Chambolle-Musigny Again, very good colour – certainly nothing hinting at brown. The nose starts with a bit of funk, but 2 minutes later I’m in raptures – that almost sweetly textured old Burgundy note, a hint of truffle and fresh iron – you have to take a sip. That sip is not disappointing either; lovely freshness and good weight – there’s the merest suggestion of something oxidised but it’s on a very, very low-level. Slowly, over about 1 hour [….]

mugneret-gibourg 2007 bourgogne

mugneret-gibourg 2007 bourgogne

Well, didn’t I catch this on a good day! 2007 Mugneret-Gibourg, Bourgogne Medium-plus colour. The nose – hmm – round, almost with a textured depth, it is redolent of Vosne – lovely stuff. In the mouth it’s also round, and with a comforting texture too. It seems far too concentrated for the label, show-casing ripe, tuffly, spicy fruit that might have you thinking ‘2009’ before you see the label, but there’s adequate acidity in this amazingly hedonistic glass. A super wine in any vintage. Excellent! Rebuy – Yes

ever upwards…

ever upwards…

I’m guessing that it’s not a good idea to hold your breath whilst waiting for lower prices 😉 At grand cru level, land sold for between $2.7m and $12.9m a hectare (2.47 acres) in 2013, the ministry wrote. The average per-hectare price rose from $5.2m in 2012. It has been rising steadily since 1996, when a hectare was selling for a relatively paltry $1.66m. Source: Winesearcher

jon wyand’s window on burgundian complexity…

jon wyand’s window on burgundian complexity…

The complexity of Burgundy in just one picture – thanks to Jon Wyand. JNG, mentioned on the left of this image, is Domaine Jean-Noël Gagnard.

a few tweets and links of interest…

First, Clive on 2004 – I feel my wrists being slapped…! 😉 Second, one wonders why he was able to accumulate so much – but hey – it’s just another profit… Third, what really is this UNESCO thing? Fruit set is also plentiful in Beaune 1er cru "Les Grèves". Loose clusters & zero disease pressure makes me happy 😀 pic.twitter.com/IodptdudA2 — Andrew Nielsen (@legrappin) June 18, 2014 A cicada in the vineyard #Pommard #Burgundy pic.twitter.com/MK5wCN84q4 — Caroline PARENT GROS (@cparentgros) June 18, 2014 Plant de #vigne souffrant de la #sécheresse à #Beaune! #Vine stock hit by #drought in #Beaune ! pic.twitter.com/KKhVZRcFaz — Jean-Claude Boisset (@J_ClaudeBoisset) June 18, 2014 Nicolas Potel: ‘a beautiful future’ for Burgundy in Asia http://t.co/nMfLnmPhft — bill nanson (@billnanson) June 18, 2014

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