FEED | SEARCH://
               Why Big Red Diary?

billn

billn

1955 pommard grands epenots

1955 pommard grands epenots

I rarely drink more than a couple of glasses per evening, but sometimes you have to suffer for your art – no? Of-course it could have been oh-so different! The wine in question was a 1955 Tastevinage, and given my experience of the Tastevinage, I have a positive impression of the quality today – I can’t vouch for before I was born though! Anyway, whilst it had less than a couple of inches of ullage, after removing the top of the capsule, the cork looked pretty damp. Usually this (supposedly dry) end stinks of oxidised wine when so wet – but I could detect none. With screwpull-worm and ah-so in tandem I slowly began to pull (twist) the cork out. It nearly, nearly made it [….]

a quartet of camille giroud 2011s…

a quartet of camille giroud 2011s…

Okay, time to tidy my desk! These short notes have been hanging around on this desk for about 3 weeks now – I buy a bunch of wines from here every year. Here’s my first look: 2011 Camille Giroud, Santenay 1er Clos Rousseau This was such a bravado performer in barrel – almost the explosive complexity of a grand cru in the mid-palate: In bottle it’s a much shy-er proposition today: very little aromatically and a palate that starts shy but silky and balanced. Only in the mid-palate is there some redolence of that brio and complexity from barrel. Très anonymous today – either very tight or a sub-detectable poor cork(?) Rebuy – Maybe 2011 Camille Giroud, Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Les Peuillets Aromatically more open, with [….]

oops – maison ilan 2010 gevrey 1er corbeaux

oops – maison ilan 2010 gevrey 1er corbeaux

Bottle number 1. I’ve never been one who sets out to write things with the potential to annoy a producer, indeed, if I don’t like the wines of a certain domaine, I actively avoid visiting, preferring to visit, and write about, somebody who provides more interest and colour. Such is his ‘story’, Ray Walker certainly provides the interest. It’s been well documented in various fora, and probably here too, that Ray had some issues with his small-cuvée Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Les Corbeaux in the 2010 vintage: Because it didn’t go through malolactic fermentation in its first year (as others in the cellar did), Ray chose the non-interventionist route and to let nature take its course. And take its course it did the following year. There was [….]

perrot-minot 2010 morey saint denis, la rue de vergy

perrot-minot 2010 morey saint denis, la rue de vergy

There can’t be many producers that have done such an about-face in wine style in the last years. Although I found some of these wines marvellously impressive in 2005, it was 2006 that (I think) saw the last of the highly concentrated, and often hard to love, wines from this domaine. 2007 was a new dawn where the wines offered finesse and elegance – and that wasn’t just for 2007 – the approach continues: 2010 Perrot-Minot, Morey St.Denis La Rue de Vergy Barely medium colour. The nose is soft, warm and very inviting, showing floral hints that evoke whole clusters – it’s very, very pretty. In the mouth it’s no more than medium-weight, but there’s a beguiling quality to the fruit and flashes of perfectly [….]

2006+2007 tollot-beaut slb champ-chevrey – updated!

2006+2007 tollot-beaut slb champ-chevrey – updated!

Let’s open two of the same – a year apart. Well, what else is one to do on a Thursday? 2007 is a vintage that’s rather looked down upon, yet is better than 2000, and all the people who currently like 2000 complain about 2007 – oh well! Then there’s 2006. A very good Côte de Nuits vintage but then people often pooh-pooh the wines of the Côte de Beaune. I guess I’m really putting myself on the line here, I should probably get danger money! Anyway, Nathalie Tollot tells me that in recent years, the domaine has rather rethought their hierarchy, and now puts Champ-Chevrey ahead of Lavières. Personally, I’ve always found Champ-Chevrey the friendlier of the two, but thought Lavières the more impressive [….]

confuron-cotetidot’s 2006 vosne-romanée

confuron-cotetidot’s 2006 vosne-romanée

2006 Confuron-Cotetidot, Vosne-Romanée Medium, medium-plus colour. The nose has just a few ‘pinched’, high-toned seconds before opening its aromatic wings; depth, great red+ fruit, spice and a very slowly growing floral aromatic. Class! Even before the nose kicks into gear, the palate is full, round, and bedded in a lovely blend of ripe tannin and mouth-watering dark fruit – almost chunky in the mid-palate. This clearly something of a baby, but something of a honey too! Rebuy – Yes

a et p de villiane 2012 mercurey les montots

a et p de villiane 2012 mercurey les montots

Two for the price of one! At the weekend I drank Domaine Bernard Moreau’s 2012 Bourgogne Pinot Noir and it was just a lovely, friendly, round, ripe and concentrated wine for the label. A real beauty! Here, a wine from Aubert and Pamela. It has a little more structure, but is built from the same basic cloth of enjoyment and round young fruit that the wine from Moreau showed. I have to say, at the risk of excluding myself from many of the best addresses, that I have rarely over the years been as wowed as most commentaries (about these wines) would suggest (I should have been!) but this is simply lovely: 2012 A et P de Villaine, Mercurey Les montots A warm, round, ripe [….]

wednesday: pics, fat whites & shameful herbicide treatments…

wednesday: pics, fat whites & shameful herbicide treatments…

The warm (20-22°C) weather continues; blue sky and sunshine: A tough tasting during the day – 70 whites from the Mâconnais, mainly 2012s. It’s a very small list of producers whose wines I would buy… Much worse that fat, concentrated white Macon, was the sight of vines which had clear signs of herbicide treatments – and 1er Cru Beaune too. It will only become more and more obvious in the next week or two. There’s no excuse for this… :

a short jog around gevrey/morey before dinner – and more…

a short jog around gevrey/morey before dinner – and more…

Time seems of the essence this week; more tastings than makes sense if you get entrance to them all, but the BIVB have been careful to spread people out. Still, you might not have thought so with the throng of people at the Vosne-Romanée tasting yesterday morning! In the end, it’s hardly possible to taste all the wines from all the exhibitors, it makes more sense to taste ‘all x in the room’ and go for this surgical-strike option. Of-course a full-packed program means disappointments too. Arriving for the Morey-Chambolle tasting at 15h30 I found close to half of the exhibitors had already left – it was scheduled from 09h00-17h00. Oh-well. I didn’t taste, I just went to my hotel in Gevrey and a little [….]

a few notes from today…

a few notes from today…

Of-course it’s Grands Jours de Bourgogne week, and you know that there was a bit of early jogging – but it was worth it, despite the freezing hands 😉 Tastings in Chablis today, and the it’s an impressive undertaking to get so many producers and tasters together, so much so that it can be rather difficult to get near many producers’ wines – I expect it will be no easier for Chambolle and Vosne, tomorrow, either! Anyway, I set myself the simple target of making notes on 50 1ers from 2012 and 15 Grand Crus from 12, the latter selected by the Union des Grands Crus – no easy task as it turned out. Still, by tasting GCs when many people were eating lunch, life [….]

first rays of sun on 1er cru mont de milieu…

first rays of sun on 1er cru mont de milieu…

Awake at 6:30am, so I decided to go out for a run. Virtually 7:00am, on the nail, the first rays of sun penetrated the frosty morning:

just one of those picturesque days…

just one of those picturesque days…

A lovely day Spring day, where I am mainly (but not completely, obviously!) in Chablis.

Page 40 of 222« First...102030...3839404142...506070...Last »