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billn

chablis 2014 – to heat, or not to heat

chablis 2014 – to heat, or not to heat

There were many producers holding their breath last night, and will probably be doing the same tonight – it reached -2.2°C at 05h30 this morning. The fact that it is dry gives a little more latitude, so the vines can better resist the cold, but still at -3°C the new leaves and shoots on those vines will be damaged. If the vineyard was more damp, they can really only tolerate -1.5°C! The forecast is for similar tonight. Apparently two nights last week were also equally worrisome. It’s actually unusually dry in the vineyards, in one of the pictures below, you can see the workers of William Fevre having to water the new vines they planted last week in Grand Cru Preuses – otherwise they would [….]

the chablis shuffle, part (day) 2

the chablis shuffle, part (day) 2

just shuffling around Chablis – day 1

just shuffling around Chablis – day 1

Oh, and for those of you who missed the news: Domaine des Lambrays has been sold to LVMH. Some links: http://t.co/1Q1tOfQRON http://t.co/amSnFYOzda It's official. — Jeremy Seysses (@JeremySeysses) April 14, 2014 Owners of Clos des Lambrays have sold up evidently no point in staying in Morey St Denis now that David Clark has left… — Jasper Morris (@justjasper) April 14, 2014

lovely: mikulski’s 2010 goutte d’or…

Am drinking a hauntingly lovely 2010 Mikulski Meursault Goutte d’Or tonight whilst trying not to take notice of the golf on TV as I need to be up-and-away early tomorrow – first appointment in Chablis at 11:00am – and I’ll be there all week. Reports will follow in the April BR Extra. The March issue comes first, also with lots of Chablis, and is due out in about 10 days… 2010 François Mikulski, Meursault 1er Goutte d’Or Still pale in colour. The nose has depth, a certain density but freshness too. Lithe, muscle but with a wonderfully growing intensity of flavour and match fresh acidity – a little citrus style – yet it can’t hide the solid minerality in the mid-palate and finish. Lovely, lovely [….]

sun, ski and amiot’s 2006 morey les ruchots

sun, ski and amiot’s 2006 morey les ruchots

Hard to believe, but the lull here was due to skiing, curtailed today by too much snow! Back home this afternoon, it was 22°C in the garden, no-wonder: Bud burst happened a few days earlier than in 2007. A precocious start to the growing season. pic.twitter.com/tpZdr58wyf — Jeremy Seysses (@JeremySeysses) April 10, 2014 But following my evening jog – replacing one kind of (leg) ache with another – time for a little MSD 1er Cru action! 2006 Pierre Amiot, Morey St.Denis 1er Les Rochots Medium, medium-plus colour. It starts modestly, but it’s still a nose to sink into; a classic Morey nose of herbs, backed with dark fruit and maybe a little blood-iron for good measure too. Just an ounce of padding below the silky [….]

the fuzz, a little chambolle and a lot of morey…

the fuzz, a little chambolle and a lot of morey…

A perfect Sunday for getting the earth under your feet – after breakfast in Le Montrachet of-course! Oh, and yes, that was Beaune this morning!

a little chalonnaise distraction…

a little chalonnaise distraction…

Early start from Beaune, breakfast, 20km on a bike, tasting Givry 2012, lunch, 20km on a bike, apero, late back to Beaune…

rain and shine…

rain and shine…

Saharan rain in Beaune this morning, but the wines shined in this overlooked cellar! Yes, the wines shined in the (late) afternoon too!

other sources…

Uncorking the City: Lettie Teague speaks with respected wine authority Clive Coates. http://t.co/JymxupgulO — bill nanson (@billnanson) April 4, 2014

Hmm - where to start...

côte d’or today…

My car is very dirty – apparently it’s sand from the Sahara. Actually, I never wash my car, so today nobody is commenting 😉 Warm during the day, warm during the evening too. Depending upon who you ask, the vines are anywhere between 2 and 4 weeks in advance of the average. Some growers seem relaxed about the situation, other much less so, but let’s see… Lunch included two 76s and a 71 from Thomas-Bassot. My previous experience of these wines was bullet-proof, but today, two were oxidised beyond redemption, despite modest ullage. The last bottle was worth the price of entry though – especially when drunk with somebody who worked with T-B until 1951! Tonight a nice jambon persillé and some 2012 Chablis in [….]

1955 pommard grands epenots

1955 pommard grands epenots

I rarely drink more than a couple of glasses per evening, but sometimes you have to suffer for your art – no? Of-course it could have been oh-so different! The wine in question was a 1955 Tastevinage, and given my experience of the Tastevinage, I have a positive impression of the quality today – I can’t vouch for before I was born though! Anyway, whilst it had less than a couple of inches of ullage, after removing the top of the capsule, the cork looked pretty damp. Usually this (supposedly dry) end stinks of oxidised wine when so wet – but I could detect none. With screwpull-worm and ah-so in tandem I slowly began to pull (twist) the cork out. It nearly, nearly made it [….]

a quartet of camille giroud 2011s…

a quartet of camille giroud 2011s…

Okay, time to tidy my desk! These short notes have been hanging around on this desk for about 3 weeks now – I buy a bunch of wines from here every year. Here’s my first look: 2011 Camille Giroud, Santenay 1er Clos Rousseau This was such a bravado performer in barrel – almost the explosive complexity of a grand cru in the mid-palate: In bottle it’s a much shy-er proposition today: very little aromatically and a palate that starts shy but silky and balanced. Only in the mid-palate is there some redolence of that brio and complexity from barrel. Très anonymous today – either very tight or a sub-detectable poor cork(?) Rebuy – Maybe 2011 Camille Giroud, Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Les Peuillets Aromatically more open, with [….]

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