FEED | SEARCH://
               Why Big Red Diary?

billn

billn

rené engel’s 1996 grands-echézeaux

rené engel’s 1996 grands-echézeaux

Last time I opened one of these – which was easily 10 years ago – it was that rare wine that was completely closed for business; in every respect you would have found more enjoyment in a Bourgogne Rouge. Let us have another try… 1996 René Engel, Grands-Echézeaux Tending to a watery rim, but the colour remains saturated at its core. Very, very understated though deep aromas of soil, graphite and a faint spice – and you have to swirl to find those! In the mouth this wine is still a baby; it’s intense with a quickly growing base of tannin – the acidity also grows quickly, focusing the intensity, though also offering that faintly metallic aspect that is common in 96s. The mid-palate slowly [….]

richebourg 1972 – domaine charles viénot

richebourg 1972 – domaine charles viénot

Back to being predictable, another red, another 1972. But one with a bit of interest attached… Charles Viénot is largely remembered as a négoce operation, but like many of today’s négoce, they also had a sizeable ownership of vines too, including vines in Richebourg. Indeed a cursory scan of this label says ‘Négociant à Premeaux par Nuits St.Georges’, but a small addition to the capsule reads that they also have the monopoly of selling the Domaine Charles Viénot wines – such as this one. The Viénot estate was wound up in the 1980s, these particular vines, planted around 1930, were bought and shared by Domaines Jean Grivot and Jean Mongeard. 1972 Charles Viénot, Richebourg It is a rare thing for the aroma in the neck [….]

mikulski 2010 meursault

mikulski 2010 meursault

Having taken a quick look at my Diary pages of the last days (weeks…) I realised how boring and how predictable I’ve become. Of-course there’s a large aspect of seasonality involved, but I felt the need to make amends – so here, for the first time in a while – a white wine!!! François Mikulski is a quietly spoken guy but one who you can very quickly build an empathy with; earnest in what he does but very, very humble about the results – more humble than the actual results deliver. 2010 François Mikulski, Meursault A depth of slightly pear fruit and classic Meursault ginger cake. Broad, good weight and intensity – the understated acidity only really asserts itself in the lovely, mouth-watering mid-palate. This [….]

fourrier: that’s how you do it ;-)

fourrier: that’s how you do it ;-)

Pic stolen from soyouwanttobeasommelier.blogspot.de/ A guide to serving your young bottles, from Jean-Marc Fourrier. Thanks Levi! How many times have I told you that you needed to give them a big shake? It’s also Christophe Roumier’s preferred approach

kudos to cellar-tracker…

There’s plenty of hoopla now about ‘His Parkerness’ suing his former #1 son – it seems the disintegration of an old and relatively trusted brand; yet with new Asian ownership and a business plan (I assume they have a business plan!) that must have a strong focus towards the largely untapped Asian consumer, it probably matters not a jot to the management team. Of-course for armchair commentators it is the thing of dreams Over the last years, however, I think that CellarTracker has become a much more valuable tool when it comes to ‘what to drink?’ – as opposed to ‘what to buy?’. For example I considered I might like to open a bottle of Rousseau Chambertin this week, and given that I have a [….]

olivier lamy and the spreading of haute densité

olivier lamy and the spreading of haute densité

Photo: Domaine Hubert Lamy Olivier makes a very special wine with his Derrière Chez Eduard HD, though sadly there is very little of it. But in all my discussions with him I don’t recollect that he told me he’d done the same in other vineyards too. As soon as I saw that he may have a Puligny Tremblots HD, I asked the question: “Pictures will come as soon as I have some time. But for the Puligny-Montrachet, in 2001 we planted 2 new vines between the old vines, so now have 20 000 plants/ha for an area of ​​approximately 6 ares (0.06 ha). We did the same thing in the Criots Bâtard-Montrachet at same time. But the young plants are very slow to develop because [….]

a-f gros 1996 savigny clos des guettes

a-f gros 1996 savigny clos des guettes

I haven’t delved into my 1996s for some time – it is alleged that they are turning a corner – let’s have a look. 1996 A.-F. Gros, Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Clos des Guettes Medium-plus colour – there’s a little age to the colour but it remains quite deep. Dark aromas hinting at prunes, accented with herbs and spices – wait 2 hours and there are interesting flashes of red fruits and licorice. Clean flavours that tend towards savoury notes but there is just enough sweetness to keep me interested; fresh and intense too though the tannin is very understated. Concentrated dark fruit flavours that are quite long, but honestly(?) this is still too early to drink. This wine gives me the impression that its oak was [….]

jcb, ho-ho-ho…

@winebird has competition – Oh, how I laughed…

yep, bin there, done that…

Then something odd happened. With each successive campaign, even as I had more disposable income to spend, the level of Bordeaux I could afford to buy kept shifting downward. I could no longer afford to drink as well as I did when I was a penniless student! When the 2005s came out to even greater fanfare and frenzy than the 2000s, I didn’t buy six cases. I bought six bottles. In the years since, the number has been zero. From Keith; note, it doesn’t just apply to Bordeaux Oh, and take it from me as I’ve tried it, THIS is soooo good!

Dying on the Vine; George Gale (2011)

Dying on the Vine; George Gale (2011)

Subtitled ‘How Phylloxera Transformed Wine’ Published by UCP. Buy from Amazon (eBook also available). If you want a novelette, a ripping who-dunnit of a phylloxera story, then perhaps this is not a volume to consider – you should go for this one. Here is a book written by a Professor of Philosophy but it seemed a little ‘dry’ in the opening pages as author, George Gale, recounted the differences between two philosophical schools of thought that considered whether phylloxera was the cause of thousands of vines dying, or whether the bug was simply a symptom of some other malady. Important enough stuff, as it delayed the focused search for a solution for years – but as mentioned a little dry. Thereafter I was hooked – [….]

1972 clos frantin grands-echézeaux

1972 clos frantin grands-echézeaux

My last ’72 Clos Frantin was 5 or 6 years ago, and it was the Richebourg. On that day it seemed to have everything – certainly more than the accompanying ’88’s – another Richebourg and a Grands-Echézeaux. Unfortunately, that ‘everything’ included TCA! Luckily, no TCA today! This wine becomes ever-more compelling with open-time, it is fine old Burgundy, but I’d never go further than that; it’s not overtly ‘Vosne-spicy’ and there’s certainly none of the often characteristic aromas of young GE, all of which had me thinking: There’s an oft-quoted ‘truism’ (was it Jacques Seysses?) that (for instance) there are many versions of Echézeaux, but once they are 20+ years old, they are all ‘Echézeaux’. Well, that might possibly be the case from the undisturbed [….]

rossignol-trapet 2010 beaune 1er teurons

rossignol-trapet 2010 beaune 1er teurons

I really wanted to like this – the back-label was giving me some feel-good factor. Unfortunately on the first night, the wine didn’t deliver – fortunately I had some patience! 2010 Rossignol-Trapet, Beaune 1er Les Teurons Medium, medium-plus colour. The nose starts quite tight, only after an hour does it become more communicative; high-toned, faintly sulfury, with a warm, slightly spicy, toffee-inflected pale red fruit, eventually a few floral notes try to liven things up. If the nose largely lacks distinction, then the palate struggles to make up for it. The impression is light but with a little too much oaky bulk in the mid-palate which brings a caramel/toffee taste in the finish, but eventually allied to a decently sharp red fruit. Initially it seemed [….]

Page 38 of 197« First...102030...3637383940...506070...Last »