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rebourgeon-mure 2010 beaune vignes-franches

rebourgeon-mure 2010 beaune vignes-franches

2010 Rebourgeon-Mure, Beaune 1er Vignes-Franches Medium-plus colour. The nose remains tight but with glossy dark fruit. Wide and rather acid-led intense – that’s not a complaint by the way, it’s an exciting and tasty wine. The dark fruit insinuates its way into your tongue and gums – it’s very nice but could be a bit more complex I think – the 2009 was much more ‘involving’ at this same stage – but it’s young and it’s a well-made baby that sits in my glass, and I have to say, doesn’t sit around very long before the glass is drained. Clean, sharp and hinting at more to come – I’m game…! Rebuy – Yes

burgundy (the land) is too expensive, so…

…everyone is buying up land in Macon, Beaujolais and even the Jura is becoming fashionable, but methinks Jadot are a little slower than, say, Drouhin in this case. It’s anyway a nice ‘retirement’ project for Jacques!

a cellar survey…

a cellar survey…

It comes to all of us, but sooner or later we have to take stock – or at least have a reasonable idea of our ‘position’! In that context I started to work my way through the cellar, cataloguing. At one time I had most things noted on a spreadsheet, but that hasn’t been updated since the arrival of the 2007s, so with trepidation I began the task at the weekend, and I’m still only halfway through! A glass or two of Rebourgeon-Mure’s 2010 Beaune Vignes-Franches was helping yesterday, hopefully today too. I expect I should have it completed by next weekend!

1999 denis bachelet gevrey vv

1999 denis bachelet gevrey vv

1999 Denis Bachelet, Gevrey-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes Medium-plus colour. Drunk directly after the 2010 Camille-Giroud cuvée ‘L’, and this has a little more energy and a lot more dark fruit. To start there a few pesky sulfites on the nose, but they quickly lift – what’s left is a dark, clean, black fruit conserve and just the early impressions of mature leaf notes. In the mouth this doesn’t have the breadth of concentration or texture of the Camille-Giroud wine, it is (not surprisingly) narrower but perhaps because of that seems more intense. Lovely dark fruit flavours reflect the aromas and there’s a super mid-palate crescendo of flavour – it’s just beautifully balanced/fresh. This, whilst still a relative baby, is drinking beautifully now – definitely no shame [….]

2010 cuvée L…

Cuvée ‘L’, as I’m sure all readers here will know by now, is the code for the combination of all the lees (at bottling time) of the C-G’s reds – villages, premiers and grands crus – a blend of which is left in tank for a good few months more to settle out the fine lees. 2010 Camille-Giroud, Bourgogne Cuvée L Medium-plus, rather purposeful colour, and it’s perfectly bright too. The nose is less demonstrative, indeed a little tight, but wait long enough (30 mins?) and a beautiful high-toned floral note is your reward. In the mouth this has balance, poise, and a decent slug of ripe tannin too. The flavours seem a little tight too, but there’s no missing the depth of concentration, good [….]

working, not necessarily owning the vines…

A good recent article here

not really heresztyn…(?)

not really heresztyn…(?)

I have to say, I’m slightly at a loss how to describe this wine. The cheap plastic capsule and the cork bear a stylised ‘MB’ (possibly!) but the label has no more info, except that the wine was selected in the cellar of Stanislas – but by who? I’ve recently seen other Burgundies at auction 1991-1993 with identical labels/capsules but for other producers such as Rapet. So a négoce wine that puts the producer name centre-stage, but anybody’s guess who!(?) Well, that would be one interpretation, anyway… 1991 “Stanislas Heresztyn”, Clos St.Denis Medium colour. The nose is clean and has a little pinot interest, but far from a 1991 grand cru I’d say. In the mouth this is also spotlessly clean, balanced and I would [….]

did anyone say mountains?

did anyone say mountains?

Just when you thought it safe to return! Okay, only a small one then!

pierre labet 2005 beaune coucherias

pierre labet 2005 beaune coucherias

2005 Pierre Labet, Beaune 1er Choucherias Medium, medium-plus colour. The nose is detailed, clean, and shows a perfectly polished red fruit – initially more redcurrant than red cherry, but given time, maybe the cherry comes to the fore. Lithe, and rather intense too, to such an extent that everything from the mid-palate on is necessarily just a diminuendo, but the wine is carried along on excellent acidity, causing the dried fruit flavours to become ever-more mouth-watering. Perhaps there is a little too much of everything today – you can be the judge of that – but I’m appreciative, and these bottles will only mellow with time, and what a great catch these bottles were. Rebuy – Yes

ilan’s 2010 morey 1er les chaffots

ilan’s 2010 morey 1er les chaffots

2010 Maison Ilan, Morey St.Denis 1er Les Chaffots Medium, medium-plus colour. There’s obvious CO2 and just a little reduction on the nose, so I give the bottle a quick shake – actually quite a lot of CO2 is released! The shake does its trick as the nose is more composed and quickly loses that reductive thread – 5-10 minutes is all that’s needed. I don’t know if this wine was made with stems, or how many stems, but the nose says so with a musky, smoky sweet aroma – it is not very Morey, it’s its own thing, but it is very compelling. Wide, lithe, understated yet concentrated with an undertow of furry tannin. The fruit complexion is fresh and very dark red, maybe not [….]

some hail, some veraison and an eye on the 2013 harvest…

some hail, some veraison and an eye on the 2013 harvest…

Claude asked yesterday ‘What are current harvest date estimates?’, and given the amount of permutations it seemed worth making an additional post… As a sidenote, earlier today there was a report that the vintage for the whole of France would be bad due to hail, so Philippe Bouzereau of Meursault, posted a picture (right) taken today to show just how terrible his hailed vines really are 😉 I also read that of France’s 900,000 hectares of vines, ‘only’ 37,000 hectares have been hailed – Alsace was also hit by hail this week – but that was clearly quite enough for Olivier Thiénot (director of l’école du vin à Paris) to declare the vintage a ‘fail’! Focusing on the Côte d’Or; I showed the picture of [….]

ardhuy 2011 côte de beaune villages

ardhuy 2011 côte de beaune villages

2011 Ardhuy, Côte de Beaune Villages Les Combottes Nice deep colour, with a young purple-tinge. The nose has a bit of cola-spritz (CO2) and a trace of reduction too – I chose to shake the bottle to release the gas. If anything the reduction gets a little worse in the original glass, but after about 20 minutes it is fading. The nose slowly transforms from a, deep-register, macerating black-skinned cherry to a brighter, redder berry – this black to red seems a common transition when reduction is in play – but the reduction is history after about 40 minutes when there’s even a violet floral element too. The acidity is borderline bright but it’s rather exacerbated by the crunchy red fruit and a faint ‘is [….]

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