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billn

Gardens!

a little morning puligny?

After Le Montrachet’s breakfast, of-course!

Ladoix - below the road...

a little walk around ladoix today

Well, nobody else was doing it! It’s been a pretty rainy week – there was a little this morning too, but mostly just cloud after about 10h00. Indeed we’ve had more than 60mm in the last week, which is such a contrast to basically nothing in July! It’s been hard for the young vines – you can see some with yellowing leaves, but nothing (yet!) like the vines stripped of leaves that we saw in 2003 when in certain vineyards the roots couldn’t go deep enough to slake their thirst – Beaune Clos du Roi springs readily to mind. May 2015 started cool and wet and ended up almost 30°C. June had 2-3 days of heavy rain, July, depending on where you were in the [….]

laurent ponsot’s new ‘shop’ in beaune…

laurent ponsot’s new ‘shop’ in beaune…

I thought this might be of interest to anyone in Beaune/Burgundy/France – it’s (to my knowledge) Laurent Ponsot’s’ first official ‘outlet.’ Attached to the Hotel de Beaune and the Bistro de l’Hôtel is a wine-shop – largely unremarkable in its first 18 months or-so – save for its artwork! They have now upped their game. A range of 1er and GC wines are now available from Laurent Ponsot – and he sets the prices, not the shop. They are not cheap, but in the context of older wines, ex-cellars, there’s no obvious gouging here, and you can even buy his Clos St.Denis TVV on its own – there are cases of different vintages! I saw 1ers from 1997 and 1998 that were about €70. Grand [….]

myth-busting pinot noir?

Myth-busting? Not exactly so – it’s not just passtoutgrains – or Côteaux Bourguignone that can contain gamay or others. There is a tolerated amount of non-pinot in very many vineyards, even from very covetable labels. It’s really not that uncommon for red wines also to contain grapes of pinot blanc, pinot gris or chardonnay – but practically the percentage is very small, probably less than 1%.

interesting: mugnier and musigny…

interesting: mugnier and musigny…

Now isn’t this interesting.   Pic stolen from a Facebook post… I have to say that I never really thought of Freddy Mugnier and Château Latour as bed-fellows, though I do understand the ‘stance’ and knowing FM, I’m sure it has nothing to do with the money. But my question is, ‘what does several years mean?’ Even through a ‘cell phone’ baby Musigny is indisputably more fabulous than 99.9% of all other similar age burgundies. Clearly it is a very different experience to drinking a wine at 20-25(+) years-old, but relevant and something that it would be a shame to miss – all in my opinion of-course. I actually believe that most of the ‘wasted’ bottles are those drunk between 3 and 10 years-old, depending on [….]

noteworthy in the last days…

New Zealand Pinot Noir producer to release a Gevrey-Chambertin… Not the Hosemaster’s finest hour, but Riedel’s action was a ‘PR disaster’ – as a result, I’ll happily revert to Zaltos! https://twitter.com/guyawoodward/status/630006263770955776 Some semblance of wine chemistry… A longer watch, but interesting nonetheless…

bourgogne criots!

bourgogne criots!

No, that’s not a new appellation, rather my choice of drinks the last days! This first wine drank so well, I may forced into pulling out my last bottles of the 93 and the 90! 1995 Maison Leroy, Bourgogne Medium colour, a little salmon rather than brown. The smell has a little cigar and a faintly stewed red fruit – but fresh, sleek and inviting it is. In the mouth there’s not that much width, but the flavour is fine, pure and leaves a texture of silk on the tongue. This drinks better and better as the time passes. Almost an ageless wine, which probably won’t ever be better than this, but I don’t expect it to slide either. Yum! Rebuy – Yes I simply [….]

les weekenders…

les weekenders…

2010 Gilles Bouton, St.Aubin 1er En Remilly From the first sniff – yum! Toasted bread and a nicely direct, if slightly cushioned. This is a little cushioned in the mouth too, with a lovely driving citrus fruit but the fresh, stony flavour widens in the mouth. A big fresh and intense mid-palate brings joy – there’s not much more I could wish for. Lovely… Rebuy – Yes 2006 Antonin Guyon, Pernand-Vergelesses What a lovely wine. Fresh, with pretty red fruit – no lack of depth and a fine sucrosity. This drank very well, and quite quickly too! Rebuy – Yes 2002 Fourrier, Gevrey-Chambertin Vieilles-Vigne A deeper, fuller nose, but one that really need to unwind before it challenged the more inviting Pernand. In the mouth [….]

‘anthology’ of the last days…

A shocking tasting by Allen Meadows: “1996 white burgundy, and in particular Ramonet though Niellon and Sauzet contributed, continues to disappoint as 8 of 9 bottles were premoxed and another one (1976 Leflaive “Clavoillon”) was corked as was one of the reds (1989 Roty Griotte). It was one of the bigger debacles that I have seen in a while.” Like a cross between Gevrey-Chambertin and Red Bull? Il fallait se lever tôt pour voir ce spectacle ! Colline de Corton entre soleil et brouillard @BLProds @aurel_ib pic.twitter.com/Hbn3Cpnn13 — Bourgogne Live (@BourgogneLive) August 2, 2015

pascal chevigny’s 2002 vosne…

pascal chevigny’s 2002 vosne…

These were very will priced, about €20 or less, way back when. Let’s say in 2004/2005… 2002 Pascal Chevigny, Vosne-Romanée Opened too cold – from the fridge – but it will warm in my glass. The nose starts very closed, but ever-so slowly it opens with a modest but charming vosne-style nose – all is in order. In the mouth there’s a slight lack of acid balance whilst cold, but as the wine warms it expands more over the palate and seems to have much finer poise. The flavour is lovely, a nice ingraining sucrosity to the fruit and lively but lovely balance. This is absolutely perfect right now, indeed excellent, so much so that I’m now tempted to attack my remaining single bottle! Rebuy [….]

thomas-moillard’s 96 corton clos du roi

thomas-moillard’s 96 corton clos du roi

1996 Thomas-Moillard, Corton Clos du Roi Deeply coloured. Ooh – diving into the aromas from the high-board. A faint graphite and deep, dark half plum/damson fruit that’s partly sweet-baked. Direct line of fresh flavour – much as I remember – but today there’s more padding and more weight of buffering flavour than 5+ years ago. The nose is becoming more rounded and complex. If you wish to hold this wine in your mouth, and despite the silk texture, the acid-intensity will slowly begin to assail your tongue – but why would you? Sharp wine, but becoming less dangerous with time. I think this still has plenty of upside, but I really enjoyed this over two nights… Rebuy – Yes

2 (assorted) echézeaux…

1998 François Lamarche, Echézeaux A fresh, intense nose with a very good fruit flavour but it quickly becomes ever-more herbal – borderline unpleasant. Plenty of modest rasp from the tannin – but the grain is clearly fading. A bit of bitter herb in the finish too – eventually a noticeable TCA flavour in the finish – hmm, a shame, corked. Rebuy – who knows… 2001 Bouchard Père et Fils, Echézeaux A deep, seemingly silky nose, yet still rather tight – slowly a very nice fruit note seeps through. Large in the mouth, more mineral than the 98, there’s growing intensity too. Much, much finer tannin – very obviously younger too. Real depth of flavour here – lovely, just an edge of salinity in the finish [….]

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