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robert-denogent 2007 bertillonnes

robert-denogent 2007 bertillonnes

Not really a proper note, as I can’t remember the detail of this wine, drunk on Sunday, so I won’t cheat and make one up, but it was certainly a wine worthy of highlighting… 2007 Robert-Denogent, Macon-Solutré Clos des Bertillonnes I enlisted my helpful neighbours with this one, simply because I’d be ashamed to drink a whole magnum on my own! This wine was from an auction purchase last year – 6 well-priced magnums – the first of which was a little disappointing, the second was brilliant and this was closer to the latter than the former, if not quite so fabulous. Certainly a little bottle variation then! I’d be the first to say that wines from the Macon very often seem fuller and riper [….]

chezeaux / ponsot 2011 chambolle charmes

chezeaux / ponsot 2011 chambolle charmes

The ardea plastic seals are still in attendance, but with a variation this year – the little black ring of yester-year is now a red ring! Oh, and I still find them a nightmare to remove: lever corkscrews can even chip the glass, such is the pressure required to get the ‘cork’ moving – reverting to a screwpull, the seal comes out halfway then just goes round and round! Then I really struggle to get it off the damn screwpull worm too – so, it seems that we (not the producers!) must we work harder to avoid cork issues… 2011 des Chézeaux, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Les Charmes The first whiff has me smiling – yes! – very, very pretty red fruits and not a hint delicate [….]

two mischievous mountain bottles…

two mischievous mountain bottles…

2006 Mischief & Mayhem, Puligny-Montrachet Medium yellow. Here is a wine that is out of sorts, or compromised by the cork – it has a slightly odd nose, redolent of the cork itself, but not TCA, more a savoury note. The wine is drinkable but seems tired, the acidity is not its usual self either – just a bit of harshness creeping in there. Drinkable, but as noted, compromised. Rebuy – No 2007 Mischief & Mayhem, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Les Caillerets Medium lemon yellow. The nose is tight, faintly chalky and with a tight core of ripe yellow fruit. That could be a concise description of the flavour too; a rather tight, mineral wine but with very fine mid-palate intensity – I liked it! Certainly it [….]

two pre-mountain bottles…

two pre-mountain bottles…

Drunk before heading to the mountains: the first wine was to commiserate with the vignerons of Savigny – I saw pictures of Lavières vines that would deliver no harvest – hopefully some owners fared better… The second bottle was one that started a little tight but really improved with time… 2006 Chenu Filles, Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Les Lavières Medium, bright colour. The nose mixes earth, red fruits and plenty of charm. Just a lovely balance in the mouth – reminds me of the clarity of many 2010s but in a medium-bodied, very elegant and well-polished package. Just a treat! Rebuy – Yes 2010 Rebourgeon-Mure, Beaune Much deeper coloured. The nose starts with depth but limited width – a couple of hours are needed for a cheeky, [….]

more mountains…

more mountains…

Back again – eventually I may write something about wine, but as a ‘warm-up’ I’ll add a couple(!) of higher altitude pics…

louis max 2011 mercurey clos la marche

Well, the white was just so good, there was nothing stopping me here – perhaps there should have been! 2011 Louis Max, Mercurey Clos la Marche Medium, bright red colour, edged with salmon pink. It seems that its southern geography was not enough save this wine from a little pyrazine; it starts, seemingly, with none before slowly growing in the glass to at least a P2 level; to start with, there were other aromas, but by now they are hidden from me. In the mouth this is relatively lite but it’s also lithe and concertedly insinuates nice flavours that leech from your gums and tongue – it’s good acidity too. There seems to be much going for this until I finally get some pyrazine flavour [….]

cool in the snow…

cool in the snow…

Actually it was still pretty warm at nearly 2800 metres! Just a few snaps from Sunday/Monday…

louis max 2010 mercurey les caudroyes

louis max 2010 mercurey les caudroyes

2010 Louis Max, Mercurey Les Caudroyes (Blanc) A wine that instantly surprises me. The nose is fine, ripe enough but maybe just a hint saline too. In the mouth there’s a core of ripe fruit but it’s long and tight in shape rather than fat and round, the acidity is also a fine foil to good mid-palate intensity. Blind I would have no doubt in pronouncing this to be a good 2 year-old 1er Cru Chablis – I never said I was a great blind taster/guesser 😉 A wine enjoyed all the more for its excellent value. Rebuy – Yes

more hail in the côte de beaune…

I just got off the phone with a grower in Beaune – I’d called to get a bit more information on the flavenscence d’orée insecticide spraying ‘story’ – in the background I could still hear the remnants of the thunder-storm. The temperature was now just 18°C – 1 hour ago it had been well over 30°C – that was before the storm hit. Like last year, hail has ripped through the vines from Volnay to Savigny; further south I’ve no info yet; further north, the Côte de Nuits experienced only about 1mm of rain and no hail. I’m not sure where the border lay – was it Savigny or Corton? – we’ll know later… The grower said he called somebody in the vineyards, and the [….]

chézeaux gevrey-chambertin les cazetiers

chézeaux gevrey-chambertin les cazetiers

A textbook example of the style of the Fixin Berthauts – who are the metayeurs here – super! 2010 des Chézeaux, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Les Cazetiers The nose is finely detailed, just a hint of flowers too over darker fruit. In the mouth this is a perfectly balanced middle-weight; flowing acidity and delicate fruit whose complexity grows in the mid-palate. Lingering and elegant in the finish. The last drops in glass offer a beautiful high-toned red-currant. This bottle simply wasn’t big enough! Rebuy – Yes

camille-giroud 2010 chassagne tête du clos

After yesterday’s Les Vergers I decided I was on a run… 2010 Camille-Giroud, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Tête du Clos (Blanc) The nose is more pungent, Chassagne-style herbs, it seems brooding and quite powerful – normally a description of a red! In the mouth this is quite a ride; power and almost an element of tannin – it really reminds me of a hairy-chested red Chassagne – yet the flavours are of a white wine, and the acid balance is lovely. Maybe a hint of CO2 was contributing to that tannin-like texture – but anyway, a wine to wait for, while you drink the Les Vergers! Rebuy – Maybe

camille-giroud 2010 chassagne les vergers

camille-giroud 2010 chassagne les vergers

2010 Camille-Giroud, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Les Vergers (Blanc) Like a sword, a well-balanced sword, sharp, thrusting and wielded with power. Okay enough of that, but this wine was really winner, with its minerality ande a certain tension. Simply lovely! Rebuy – Yes

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