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Chambolle

early starts…

The days are long for some. Such is the heat (& sunburn) this week, that many are already starting their day in the vines at 06h00. Some balancing with a long siesta, others not. Today was ‘second treatment day’ for some, though given the forecast for storms tomorrow or Friday, I’m not sure if it will have been worth the effort – but let’s see who’s right, them or the forecasters… Two tastings this morning that were a world apart – Felettig and Le Moine – the traditional and the new, yet both characterised by a myriad of small parcels and/or cuvées. A small collection today – from Chambolle and Beaune:

hot in the côtes…

hot in the côtes…

Hot, hot, hot today – my car’s aircon can hardly keep up. Definitely not a time to be smooching around town with bottles in the car! After what seems like months of not visiting, I was yet-again back in Vosne-Romanée today. So I’ll apologise up-front for the photo-monotony 😉 But first a bit of Boisset (new) cuverie action: Then a little Vosne selection:

2 reds for my weekend: richebourg & nuits st.georges…

2 reds for my weekend: richebourg & nuits st.georges…

An interesting pair for this weekend – a more than half-good 1994, but one bested by a 2008 – despite their respective labels… 1994 Jean Grivot, Richebourg Medium, medium-plus red colour – really not lots and lots of age. The nose has bright and ripe cherry-red fruit – quite nice I must say. In the mouth this is big and round, despite plenty of acidity, with ripe and appealing, sweeet cherry fruit that really has a certain ‘Richebourgness’ about it – I’m really amazed that this is a 94 until after the mid-palate and into the finish – here the acidity is rough and rustic, the finish is also pinched and not so long. Overall, interesting parts, but not really a coherent whole. Maybe half [….]

windless…

windless…

The first spray in Beaune… I was shaking my head watching a tractor deliver it’s treatment in the vines yesterday – or not deliver as it turned out. A reasonably strong wind was sweeping across the vines, and with it, their treatment was swept away. Not just a waste, but what price bio or organic certification when half of your neighbours’ treatments end up on your vines? Oh-well. But today the wind is just a fraction of yesterday and the sky is clear and blue. I see that Guillaume Tardy and Charles Lachaux are making their first treatments of the year in Vosne, and further south, Nicolas Rossignol (the Beaune/Volnay version!) is doing the same. Of-course, there are many others too… These first treatments (powdered [….]

2013s… (and a bit of gevrey!)

2013s… (and a bit of gevrey!)

Gevrey-Chambertin Les Evocelles today… The 2013 whites were rather accurately reported I think, but I really felt that the reporting on the 2013 reds was all over the place – more-so than the wines themselves. Of-course I’m talking about good addresses, and, in the main, Côte de Nuits domaines (which I’m visiting this month), but the wines where I’ve re-tasted (as much as any new wines tasted) show that the 2013s have put on more weight and richness versus the November-December tasting jamboree. The end of 2014 had more dissolved CO2, more forward acidity (emphasised by the gas) and less richness than the wines show today. I keep telling myself “November is a great time to taste, but that’s not what gets bottled…” – it [….]

burgundy sales stats…

For those with an interest 😉 http://www.shankennewsdaily.com/index.php/2015/05/05/12312/u-s-becomes-top-market-for-burgundy-despite-a-decline-in-volume-and-value/

RSV...

floral vosne-romanée…

I really can’t remember the last time I aimlessly wandered around Vosne with my camera, but today, either side of an appointment at René Cacheux I did just that. The vines really look in fine shape, and not just the vines either…

a couple of weekend glass-fillers…

2007 Robert-Denogent, Mâcon-Solutré Clos Bertillonnes My last magnum (I think!). The first of these half-dozen mags wasn’t that brilliant – maybe that was cork-related – the problem wasn’t oxidation, rather just not tasting great but all the rest have been excellent. An inspired auction buy about 4-5 years ago! This was crisp but weighty, ripe but fresh. It was devoured by 4 people – enough said! Rebuy – Yes 1996 Bertagna, Vougeot 1er Clos de la Perrière The first one of these I drank a few years back – it was sugary and not completely inspiring – could this be better now? This was a very modest nose – indeed tight – but something sweet and older was trying to get out – and it [….]

2011 ramonet bourgogne pinot noir…

2011 ramonet bourgogne pinot noir…

2011 Ramonet, Bourgogne Pinot Noir Both I and my girlfriend sniffed this as soon as it was poured – we both decreed that is was pyrazine free – she’s more sensitive to it that I – Excellent! – so we both began to drink. 20 minutes later, we both decided we were wrong, indeed it had become modestly smelly but more than modestly tasting of pyrazines. Initially, it was fresh, faintly minty red fruit – hardly medium weight. Fresh on the palate with a similar (almost) medium-weight concentration of transparent, sweet-enough flavour. Lots of people will be happy with this, but I found it hard to drink. Rebuy – No

gros frère et soeur 98 grands-echézeaux

gros frère et soeur 98 grands-echézeaux

I knew exactly what I was looking for, end even more surprising I found it straight away – well, almost! Except, it wasn’t what I expected. I was sure that this was the 1995, but no. Hmm, maybe I do have a 1995, somewhere, but clearly I wasn’t going to find it in 5 minutes! Okay, I really prefer 20 years on a wine like this, but hey, I decided that I was already committed! What I do have in mind is that the vines were not long replanted at this time(?) if that was really the case, I have to say that this was a brilliant performance, indeed a performance of bravado! 1998 Gros Frère et Soeur, Grands-Echézeaux Deeply coloured – clearly not young, [….]

joseph henriot r.i.p…

joseph henriot r.i.p…

Joseph Henriot was certainly a giant of more than one (wine) stage, and Jancis offers a wider perspective of his works than any Burgundy specialist could: http://www.jancisrobinson.com/articles/joseph-henriot-dies I remember an anecdote from Philippe Prost who was wine-maker at the time of the Henriot acquisition of Bouchard Père et Fils, Philippe related that Joseph Henriot told everyone to put their wish-list on the table for dragging Bouchard back into the top quality level. Philippe’s list extended to xxx new barrels to be bought for the forthcoming vintage. Joseph looked him in the eye and asked – “But in a perfect world, what would you have asked for?” – “300 more new barrels, in addition to the ones I’ve already asked for” replied Philippe. Joseph paused and [….]

march report online…

march report online…

A few more Chalonnaise domaines, a return to the Artisans-Vignerons of the Mâconnais plus tastings of Chambolle-Musigny, Echézeaux and Nuits Blanc. Plus a few more things! https://www.burgundy-report.com/burgundy-report-extra/03-2015/

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