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billn

billn

did anyone say mountains?

did anyone say mountains?

Just when you thought it safe to return! Okay, only a small one then!

pierre labet 2005 beaune coucherias

pierre labet 2005 beaune coucherias

2005 Pierre Labet, Beaune 1er Choucherias Medium, medium-plus colour. The nose is detailed, clean, and shows a perfectly polished red fruit – initially more redcurrant than red cherry, but given time, maybe the cherry comes to the fore. Lithe, and rather intense too, to such an extent that everything from the mid-palate on is necessarily just a diminuendo, but the wine is carried along on excellent acidity, causing the dried fruit flavours to become ever-more mouth-watering. Perhaps there is a little too much of everything today – you can be the judge of that – but I’m appreciative, and these bottles will only mellow with time, and what a great catch these bottles were. Rebuy – Yes

ilan’s 2010 morey 1er les chaffots

ilan’s 2010 morey 1er les chaffots

2010 Maison Ilan, Morey St.Denis 1er Les Chaffots Medium, medium-plus colour. There’s obvious CO2 and just a little reduction on the nose, so I give the bottle a quick shake – actually quite a lot of CO2 is released! The shake does its trick as the nose is more composed and quickly loses that reductive thread – 5-10 minutes is all that’s needed. I don’t know if this wine was made with stems, or how many stems, but the nose says so with a musky, smoky sweet aroma – it is not very Morey, it’s its own thing, but it is very compelling. Wide, lithe, understated yet concentrated with an undertow of furry tannin. The fruit complexion is fresh and very dark red, maybe not [….]

some hail, some veraison and an eye on the 2013 harvest…

some hail, some veraison and an eye on the 2013 harvest…

Claude asked yesterday ‘What are current harvest date estimates?’, and given the amount of permutations it seemed worth making an additional post… As a sidenote, earlier today there was a report that the vintage for the whole of France would be bad due to hail, so Philippe Bouzereau of Meursault, posted a picture (right) taken today to show just how terrible his hailed vines really are I also read that of France’s 900,000 hectares of vines, ‘only’ 37,000 hectares have been hailed – Alsace was also hit by hail this week – but that was clearly quite enough for Olivier Thiénot (director of l’école du vin à Paris) to declare the vintage a ‘fail’! Focusing on the Côte d’Or; I showed the picture of veraison [….]

ardhuy 2011 côte de beaune villages

ardhuy 2011 côte de beaune villages

2011 Ardhuy, Côte de Beaune Villages Les Combottes Nice deep colour, with a young purple-tinge. The nose has a bit of cola-spritz (CO2) and a trace of reduction too – I chose to shake the bottle to release the gas. If anything the reduction gets a little worse in the original glass, but after about 20 minutes it is fading. The nose slowly transforms from a, deep-register, macerating black-skinned cherry to a brighter, redder berry – this black to red seems a common transition when reduction is in play – but the reduction is history after about 40 minutes when there’s even a violet floral element too. The acidity is borderline bright but it’s rather exacerbated by the crunchy red fruit and a faint ‘is [….]

time for colour…

time for colour…

Of-course, just for now it is seldom seen, but today it was first seen in Richebourg, Domaine Grivot’s Richebourg to be precise…

robert-denogent 2007 bertillonnes

robert-denogent 2007 bertillonnes

Not really a proper note, as I can’t remember the detail of this wine, drunk on Sunday, so I won’t cheat and make one up, but it was certainly a wine worthy of highlighting… 2007 Robert-Denogent, Macon-Solutré Clos des Bertillonnes I enlisted my helpful neighbours with this one, simply because I’d be ashamed to drink a whole magnum on my own! This wine was from an auction purchase last year – 6 well-priced magnums – the first of which was a little disappointing, the second was brilliant and this was closer to the latter than the former, if not quite so fabulous. Certainly a little bottle variation then! I’d be the first to say that wines from the Macon very often seem fuller and riper [….]

chezeaux / ponsot 2011 chambolle charmes

chezeaux / ponsot 2011 chambolle charmes

The ardea plastic seals are still in attendance, but with a variation this year – the little black ring of yester-year is now a red ring! Oh, and I still find them a nightmare to remove: lever corkscrews can even chip the glass, such is the pressure required to get the ‘cork’ moving – reverting to a screwpull, the seal comes out halfway then just goes round and round! Then I really struggle to get it off the damn screwpull worm too – so, it seems that we (not the producers!) must we work harder to avoid cork issues… 2011 des Chézeaux, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Les Charmes The first whiff has me smiling – yes! – very, very pretty red fruits and not a hint delicate [….]

two mischievous mountain bottles…

two mischievous mountain bottles…

2006 Mischief & Mayhem, Puligny-Montrachet Medium yellow. Here is a wine that is out of sorts, or compromised by the cork – it has a slightly odd nose, redolent of the cork itself, but not TCA, more a savoury note. The wine is drinkable but seems tired, the acidity is not its usual self either – just a bit of harshness creeping in there. Drinkable, but as noted, compromised. Rebuy – No 2007 Mischief & Mayhem, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Les Caillerets Medium lemon yellow. The nose is tight, faintly chalky and with a tight core of ripe yellow fruit. That could be a concise description of the flavour too; a rather tight, mineral wine but with very fine mid-palate intensity – I liked it! Certainly it [….]

two pre-mountain bottles…

two pre-mountain bottles…

Drunk before heading to the mountains: the first wine was to commiserate with the vignerons of Savigny – I saw pictures of Lavières vines that would deliver no harvest – hopefully some owners fared better… The second bottle was one that started a little tight but really improved with time… 2006 Chenu Filles, Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Les Lavières Medium, bright colour. The nose mixes earth, red fruits and plenty of charm. Just a lovely balance in the mouth – reminds me of the clarity of many 2010s but in a medium-bodied, very elegant and well-polished package. Just a treat! Rebuy – Yes 2010 Rebourgeon-Mure, Beaune Much deeper coloured. The nose starts with depth but limited width – a couple of hours are needed for a cheeky, [….]

more mountains…

more mountains…

Back again – eventually I may write something about wine, but as a ‘warm-up’ I’ll add a couple(!) of higher altitude pics…

louis max 2011 mercurey clos la marche

Well, the white was just so good, there was nothing stopping me here – perhaps there should have been! 2011 Louis Max, Mercurey Clos la Marche Medium, bright red colour, edged with salmon pink. It seems that its southern geography was not enough save this wine from a little pyrazine; it starts, seemingly, with none before slowly growing in the glass to at least a P2 level; to start with, there were other aromas, but by now they are hidden from me. In the mouth this is relatively lite but it’s also lithe and concertedly insinuates nice flavours that leech from your gums and tongue – it’s good acidity too. There seems to be much going for this until I finally get some pyrazine flavour [….]

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