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not half good – 1999 mugnier chambolle

not half good – 1999 mugnier chambolle

I’m really at a loss with these half bottles – luckily I have less and less of them… Way-back-when, when the 1999s were released I was fortunate enough to buy Mugnier’s Musigny, Amoureuses and villages Chambolle. I didn’t have much of the villages, but it tasted great, so I jumped in and bought a dozen halves too – just as well, I thought, as those 75cls are long-gone. I drank an early Musigny at it was brilliant (note that I’m very happy to have drunk that young bottle, despite Frederic deciding it’s not up to us when to drink them). I’ve had a couple of Amoureuses too – the last 2 years ago – and, likewise, it was brilliant – perhaps even more brilliant, certainly [….]

changing the guard at clos de tart…

It’s en Français but here is a great post by Jacques Perrin, covering the recent Clos de Tart tastings, celebrating the vintages and retirement of Sylvain Pitiot as winemaker. There will another, similar, tasting at his UK importers in October, but unfortunately I’m fully booked! Look out for the floral descriptor ‘gentiane’ (gentian) in the notes – that’s French-taster-speak for pyrazine 😉 Anyway, a great map of the Clos is included – it’s not attributed, but I assume it was directly the handiwork of Sylvain… Here.

vougeraie’s 2000 clos de vougeot…

vougeraie’s 2000 clos de vougeot…

2000 Vougeraie, Clos de Vougeot A big round, faintly developed nose of leaves with a sweeter, complex depth – a great start. Versus the last time I opened one of these, the overall impression is a little more direct and less padded, yet still with just a hint of Clos de Vougeot strictness. I’m liking this, yet without the total love of previous bottles. A phase or this bottle? One never knows, but all the same, a more than adequately satisfying wine, even one with such an ‘important’ label. Rebuy – Yes

19 september – 2015 harvest day 16

19 september – 2015 harvest day 16

Le Roi Chambertin. Harvest day 16, but only our 12th day with grapes… As we say, it’s only over after the Chambertin is in – and today, finally, it was. Despite the wait, no complaints about the cleanliness and presentation of the grapes. More info after a short (maybe long) Paulée… 😉  

17 september – 2015 harvest day 14

17 september – 2015 harvest day 14

Hooray! At 16h00 today, the rain stopped – so that was only 23 hours of rain… That said, the sky remains very dark with just a few patches of blue – in fact it’s averaged several hours of rain per day since Saturday! At the home domaine there is nothing to report – our last grapes are still on the vine, and it’s not certain if they will be picked on Friday or Saturday. I’ll be signing-off from this series of reports just as soon as those grapes are sorted, but for info on the ferments, and something of the analytics of the 2015 vintage, I’ll include that in my September report.

16 september – 2015 harvest day 13

16 september – 2015 harvest day 13

For those who were asking, here’s the difference between (very ripe) pinot noir and pinot gris – locally called pinot beurot – from Charmes-Chambertin today. [2x life-size] We wake to rain – not particularly heavy, but unyielding. It’s still raining when our first truck of grapes arrives from Gevrey-Chambertin – avec nos Charmes-Chambertin – I bet the cases will be rather muddy (again) too! As it turns out the cases are in good shape – this grower fills them differently to the one in Marsannay. Our grower’s Charmes is always something of a challenge to triage as it’s normally full of rot. This year, hardly a sight of rot – maybe a dozen bunches from many pallets of fruit – and they have also managed [….]

15 september – 2015 harvest day 12

15 september – 2015 harvest day 12

Lavaux St.Jacques. The finishing-line is in sight now, but today we’re just going to focus on more Marsannay Les Longeroies and one of Gevrey’s bigger guns – Lavaux St.Jacques. Still, it won’t be very much fun cutting grapes today, due to multiple showers of rain overnight – but by 09h00 the streets and pavements of Beaune are almost dry. As our first cases arrive – Lavaux (some say/type Lavaut) St.Jacques, it’s clear that conditions in the vines were less than perfect; the fruit in the cases is fine, but to the sides and the bottoms of those cases adheres plenty of mud – sorry, terroir! There’s a thought – over the last 40-50 years I wonder how much soil/mud from the Côte de Nuits has [….]

14 september – 2015 harvest day 11

14 september – 2015 harvest day 11

It’s a bit confusing I suppose, as it is the 11th day since we began harvesting, but it is only the 9th day of harvesting for our team as we did none on Saturday and Sunday. The weekend had no grapes as the forecasts were for apocalyptic rain-storms and hail – some moderately heavy rain arrived on Saturday afternoon and lasted into the early evening, but a surprisingly lovely Sunday followed with ever-more blue sky, sunshine and 24°C in the afternoon. BANG – is that thunder? We had at least 2 hours of thunder and lightning in Beaune from about 5pm – for a minute or so, even 1cm sized hail after which the road outside my apartment resembled a river. Beaune received about 60mm [….]

world of fine wine – two great articles…

world of fine wine – two great articles…

I get to see copies of World of Fine Wine relatively infrequently – probably less than half of those issues that are published. I’m not pushed to improve on this ratio, as I often struggle to find articles to suit my interests, but the current issue (48) has a couple of beauties. First, a relatively short article by Michel Bettane about Guy Accad. Accad has always been something of a personal hero for me and somebody I’d love to meet. I know he was a great pioneer in the vineyards, but this is often forgotten in preference for discussing his approaches in the cuverie – these were and still are more controversial, despite such a large uptake of many of his ideas in modern winemaking. [….]

Buildings attached to Notre Dame

saturday, beaune before the rain

It’s the first time I stole a look around the back of the Notre Dame – nice…  

11 september – 2015 harvest day 8

11 september – 2015 harvest day 8

Found on a single vine in Ladoix – there were other bunches, green like chardonnay with a fainter pink skin, but none of those were ripe. This almost all pink was ripe and sweet, with little extra flavour to define it though. It showed a very open bunch structure with large (minimum 2cm) grapes (melons). I asked about half a dozen locals – nobody had any idea what it was. Ouf! It’s already Friday – where did all the time go? Really our biggest day, volume-wise, but aided by an early start and fruit that essentially needed minimal trie – sometimes unripe bunches (Ladoix) or sometimes a little dried fruit (Beaune 1er Avaux), or sometimes a little rot (Hautes Côtes de Beaune) yet we had [….]

Maranges looking good!

10 september – 2015 harvest day 7

Subtitled: Start your day with Santenay! I had some great photos lined-up today, but due to the health and safety issues involved, I thought it just as well to keep the camera ‘holstered!’ Another healthy, clean tranche of grapes this morning – all from Santenay. There were only two or three isolated clusters with oïdium, a little easy to triage rot plus some weeding out of the unripe. Here was a reasonable amount of pinot gris, and the first I’ve seen that was universally ripe too – maybe the pinot gris is a little longer ripening this year(?) Perhaps a little too much reggae music though – it’s still cold in the morning, and you’re never going to get warm trying to dance to that! [….]

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