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billn

december’s report…

Well that’s the last of my reports for 2015 now online. That’s another 440 notes accumulated across visits to 14 major producers (I call them grandes maisons), a blind tasting of 36x 2013 Ladoix – which delivered some lovely wines, and a tasting in search of pinosity in Beaujolais – wines back to 1949. I can safely say that it was a privilege! Oh, and there’s my Vintage Viewpoint 2015,2014,2013 too. Whilst the numbers are not the reason for doing this, that’s still over 1,500 wines in the October to December issues. January looks like a big one too – 47 Chablis domaines – fortunately February has fewer days, so that looks like just 35 domaines in Volnay, starting tomorrow! 😉 Enjoy: https://wp.me/PjmsF-abS

Irancy 2016…

Irancy 2016…

Well, all week the armchair forecasters were saying nice on Saturday, terrible on Sunday – the weather that was! As it was, the rain and wind arrived early – midday on Saturday. This was one day where everyone was happy that it was 8°C and not 1°C! The Irancy Saint Vincent parade started in the dark of the early morning, from high on the hill above Irancy into the town below – by torchlight and with handy flames by the side of the the route; representatives from all over Burgundy with their own ‘Saint Vincent’ statues. Still, for the first 5 hours or so everybody stayed dry, if still a little wind-swept! By mid-morning there was a 2km line of slowly moving cars to the [….]

week 04 2016 – the last of january’s chablis visits

week 04 2016 – the last of january’s chablis visits

This week’s portraits… 😉

breaktime for ‘Rose’

breaktime for ‘Rose’

I was driving up and down between Maligny and Chablis town between appointments today, and noted this lady at work this morning – but I had no time to stop… When I returned for my first afternoon rendezvous, the horse was still at work but yet again I had no time to admire – curses! Fortunately, after finishing my visit, ‘Rose’ and her ‘driver’ were still in place – though taking their mid-afternoon break from ploughing in the Chablis’ 1er Cru ‘l’Homme Mort’ – a constituent part of the better known Fourchaume 1er Cru. Given the extremely mild weather, it comes as no surprise that the ground is easier to plough than usual – so 12-14°C every day is not all bad news! Thanks Rose! [….]

january weekend bottles, part 2…

january weekend bottles, part 2…

Over a year ago when I tasted the 2013s chez Dufouleur Frères, it might well have been a root day; the wines really didn’t show very well, but they certainly did show a strong accent of dark oak – François-Xavier (FX) Dufouleur really wasn’t happy with the overall showing that day. When I tasted the 14s in December, no such problem with those wines, and, when it was time to leave, FX thrust into my hand these two 2013 samples as he was interested how I might find them 1 year on: 2013 Dufouleur Frères, Cote de Nuits Villages Vaucrain Very faintly accented with reduction, less faint an accent of oak spice but delivered in quite a pretty way. Bright, wide and with a super [….]

le corton 01 and 02…

le corton 01 and 02…

This week I re-acquainted myself with a couple of old friends; Bouchard’s Le Corton. Always a very well-priced cuvée but with a great a quality – I know this is young for Corton, but how are these two doing? 2001 Bouchard Père et Fils, Le Corton Hmm – a lovely nose of seemingly mature fruit, wide and complex – this is very appealing indeed. Actually the nose is the best part of this wine; the palate has a nice width and shows prettily complex flavour – also seemingly showing in a rather mature but very tasty way. Nothing wrong here but I might have expected more impact and intensity – yet it trips over the tongue in a sweet and easy way – I wouldn’t [….]

the champions of chablis – this year…

the champions of chablis – this year…

I had breakfast with the redoubtable Allen Meadows on Friday; he’d arrived in Chablis to head the jury for the 30th ‘Concours des vins de Chablis’. He didn’t actually taste the 300+ wines, rather he and fellow jurors were selecting from the best of previously tasted samples. A great, and actually very interesting, list of 2014 Petit Chablis, Chablis and Chablis 1er crus, plus grand crus from 2013 – thanks to the BIVB Chablis for sharing this… 30th Chablis wine Competition results (PDF, 44KB)

1h40 to Zürich? No, 3.5 hours!

at last, just a tiny bit of snow ;-)

No, not in Burgundy, rather the weekend in Graubunden. Our hut was a bit cold, so I can tell you that the 2013 Puligny shows much more oak at 5°C than it does at 12-15°C! The 1993 Clos St.Jacques was very good but not great – but probably 10-15°C at consumption may have had much to do with that! The hut was a toasty 20°C – just when we were ready to leave the next day 😉 Really a great time, but don’t mention the 4.5 hours to get home – it should be less than 3…

week 02 2016 – chablis

week 02 2016 – chablis

This week’s mugshots 😉

Inexplicable Chablis…

Don’t expect me to explain the market for Chablis to you – it generally leaves me confused! There is a certain lack of wine here in Chablis, and a lot of it sells rather quickly; yet a significant amount of this volume departs the producers’ cellars for less than €7 per bottle for Chablis, and less than €10 for premier crus – for larger orders of-course. The average domaine size in terms of hectares is much larger than in the Côte d’Or, though because of the pricing of the wine, the turnover per domaine is rarely more – only four employees for 80 hectares wouldn’t be uncommon in Chablis. Because of this larger number of hectares per domaine there is often a blurring of lines [….]

a grand cru chablis courir…

a grand cru chablis courir…

I had more appointments in the afternoon than the morning today, so when finished at 11am, I decided it was time not just for a jog around the grand crus, ‘B’ camera gripped tight, but also enough time for a shower afterwards – so I don’t smell more than the wines in the afternoon! It seems that my timing was good; by 1pm it’s dark and (of-course!) raining… A light frost of about -2°C overnight – the first for a while…  

in chablis – week 2…

in chablis – week 2…

It was a really pretty morning in Chablis today – the sun and blue sky with a particular clarity. They say it’s like that before it snows – let’s see. The temperature was not much lower this morning, still 6°C in town, but a couple of degrees cooler out and about in the local villages. This morning, visits in the two villages noted in the above picture, followed by visits only in Chablis in the afternoon – very nice, no car required – and no rain, or snow, yet!   And to keep you going, a trio of articles online in the last days: Decanter – Burgundy 2014 vintage overview Jancis/FT – Burgundy 2014 Wine-searcher – Burgundy En Primeur Milestone

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