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all change today in morey st.denis…

Important, grand cru, changes are underway today in Morey St.Denis.

It has been known, for a little while, that Jacques Devauges will be leaving Clos de Tart – after (in my opinion) too short a tenure. I believe that Jacques liberated the wine of Clos de Tart – so oft a wine that was constrained by its oak. I wholeheartedly believe that it’s one of Burgundy’s great wines but that the oak really meant that performance was highly variable – you shouldn’t drink it for at least 20 years has been my experience – the 96-98 are great now but not the 99 and younger – at least not consistently.

Jacques officially leaves Clos de Tart today, February 26th. His successor, Alessandro Noli, is well-known as the previous winemaker at Château Grillet – also part of the Latour, Eugénie, Clos de Tart group. The Clos de Tart was a family operation when Jacques joined – but that changed relatively quickly – Jacques, however, with a nice touch, describes his successor Alessandro as “A great man!

Jacques’ next move is, officially, unknown, but there is speculation that he already has a new, grand cru, berth in Morey St.Denis – speculation that I first found to be outlandish – but it seems that there could be more than a kernel of truth. I won’t commit the speculation to paper – the parties at both locations are retaining their discretion – but the rumours seem to be true. So watch this space…

3 responses to “all change today in morey st.denis…”

  1. Stephen Dowd

    Great picture Bill. You must have waited hours to get it. Stephen

  2. Mark in Pernand

    No need necessarily to wait hours 🙂 . Those formidable ladies are sat there every day late afternoon for a few hours. We often wave to them on our way back through the village at the end of a vendange day – Herve Arlaud driving often beeps the van horn to them and calls to them from the vehicle window (have never been able to catch/translate his words !).

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