weekend wines – week 38 2018

25.9.2018billn

2014 Sylvain Pataille, Bourgogne Blanc Le Chapitre
Quite a deep golden – but then Sylvain has never been one to shy away from ‘low sulfur.’ The nose is relatively tight but fresh with a little ripe mirabelle fruit possibly even baked apple pie but even a faint suggestion of reduction. This is sleek wine, of beautiful, driving, mouth-watering line – it’s just so juicily delicious and with fine, lingering, flavour. Don’t chill this too much or it will be drunk in flash – you have been warned! Great stuff!

2014 Lambrays, Bourgogne Rosé
Medium, medium-plus colour for a rosé. The nose is not super enticing – faintly cheesy-feet and a little high-toned, almost in the direction of volatility. In the mouth this has lovely shape and a little fat to the texture. The initial flavours are far from ripe but the flavour opens out and holds in a definitely un-Bourgogne way. Still, this is quite good at best and a long way from great. I can only assume that this was already best consumed in 2015 or 2016…

2016 Château Thivin, Côte de Brouilly Cuvée Zaccharie Geoffray
Now that’s a deep colour! The nose starts with a little reduction in the depths, but time in the glass, or a little time sans cork, and it’s gone. What remains has fresh width, a little graphite and a beautiful black cherry note. The palate has freshness and weight that intensifies and them melts over the palate in an extravaganza of a bright, pure beam of od cherry fruit. Simply top class! Bravo…

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