1993 Joseph Voillot, Meursault 1er Les Cras
A too often forgotten premier of Meursault – it can only be because of the small quantity of bottles – the wine today is brilliant, it’s lost all the strictness and rigour that it had back in 2010.
The colour is deeply golden, but not quite orange! The nose starts with a reductive struck-match – fireworks already! Air reducing the effect of the fireworks and adding a depth of ripe, almost waxy citrus – it reminds me of the perfume of some iris in the garden at the moment – there is lanolin, but still on a very low order. In the mouth this is as sleek as it has ever been, but just so juicy, stony and melting with a citrus-infused acidity. There is such an electric energy to this wine that the red I’d planned for tonight can wait until tomorrow. I’m sticking with this one!
Rebuy – No Chance – but I would if I could!

I’m hoping that one or two still lie in the cellar, somewhere…