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weekend wines – week 43 2017



1996 Pierre Damoy, Chapelle-Chambertin
Hmm – completely gorgeous – the nose is no-longer overtly of stems, now it’s become a blend of fruit and flowers. Still, there’s a 1996 freshness of acidity but neither sharp nor painful. In the finish there is still a little herb complexity but this is nearly as good as the nose now. Quite close to ready and absolutely enjoyed.
Rebuy – Yes

1985 Bertagna, Vougeot 1er Clos de la Perrière
In the last 3 years, bottle #1 was ethereal brilliance, bottle #2 was bacterially infected. This, #3, is closer to the former than that latter bottle – without ever touching on brilliance. The nose is deep, faintly spiced and with dry loamy soil. In the mouth there is a nice shape – plenty of volume here – and freshness too. The fruit is ripe and a little plummy – super finishing width that has fine definition. This is the most delicious part of this wine. There is only one thing wrong with this otherwise excellent wine – and that is that I remember how much better the first bottle was!
Rebuy – Maybe (for the variability)

2008 Pascal Marchand, Corton
Hardly more than medium colour. The nose is of modest intensity but at the same time fabulously complex – though there’s still a trace of barrel coconut.This wine is almost too easy for a Corton, particularly a 2008 Corton, but it has an engrossing ethereal quality to it. I’d still prefer the coconut to fade more, but this wine has always been class in glass…
Rebuy – Yes

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