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2017 harvest – 12 september (home domaine finish)


There followed a very enthusiastic and global use of water-hoses – to many shouts of ‘No – not on my phone!’…

Starting our day with the last white – a small parcel in Pernand-Vergelesses Les Pins – here just 0.2 ha in a high sector that was once predominantly planted to aligoté behind Sur Frétile – not Sous Frétile – i.e. the unplanted viewing area at the top of the hill in Pernand. From relatively you vines. Very easy to triage versus the Charlemagne yesterday. Very nice, and today we cheating with the press a little – the first load getting a sneaky short press so there’s enough space for the final delivery!

Following on from my discussion of reds with the consulting oenologue yesterday, the acids are pretty classic for the reds with the balance of tartaric and malic acids, so will reduce a little after malo. As for the whites, one sees why some vignerons chose to go relatively early – I spoke with a well-known Puligny-based producer yesterday and in our discussion he told me that “pH 3.2-3.3 is certainly good for the reds but for whites that’s getting borderline us.” I chatted with the oenologue about this, and he said that based on the analysis of the musts, there has certainly been a little ‘modest’ acidification at some domaine’s in the core of the Côte de Beaune’s white production area, but they do that more than half of the time anyway…


Suddenly it was lunchtime! A Champagne start (Deutz) a 2002 Pouilly-Fumé middle (I at least guess the grape!) and a 1981 Clos de Vougeot finish – the Mongeard-Mugneret CV certainly had aromatics and structure that you could describe as austere to start, but despite being narrow in the start the dimensions and complexity of the finish were clear – here it was obviously grand cru (blind). Given air, there’s an aromatic phase that’s captivating. Almost a fresh orange note in the finish, still with a touch of phenolic bitterness and a suggestion of coffee… I would open this at least a couple of hours before serving, because all the faults and rigor of the first 30 minutes are gone with air. Very robust and super, only getting better and better in the glass!


Pommard Vaumuriens…
After lunch a small parcel of Pommard Vaumuriens – once worked by Coche-Dury. Fine looking grapes, not too much to triage. Post water-fight, dripping, we finished with our second parcel from Beaune 1er Reversées, not quite to the same level of our first parcel but fine none-the-less. And that was 2017, just around the corner from my apartment in Beaune!

Of-course we finished with our Paulée yesterday evening…
 

3 responses to “2017 harvest – 12 september (home domaine finish)”

  1. James Mulford

    Thanks for the excellent harvest coverage. Judging by the vineyards, am I right in assuming your new ‘home domaine’ is Françoise André? Also, what made you switch to a new domaine? Shorter commute? 😉

  2. Siddharth Dasgupta

    We must have walked by this place on our way to Maison Champy on our visit in early July, 2017!

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