the good, the…

By billn on June 20, 2019 #degustation

2013 Arnaud Ente, Meursault
I tasted this blind. So fresh – both aromatically and in the mouth – like a spear of flavour. I decided it must be 2014 or 2017 from this profile, but there was also a twist of the spiced sun – could it be 2015? I’d already seen the big blue wax top so had Ente in mind, so really thought that he could produce a 15 like that – no I decided to stay with 2014 because I felt that there was a bit of age to this wine. It turned out to be 2013 – so young for that, but now that little extra ripeness makes sense even if it didn’t recall apricot – simply a great 2013!
Rebuy – Yes

2016 Georges Noellat, Vosne-Romanée 1er Les Beaux Monts
Also tasted blind. A silky nose – with a bit of drive – yet also relatively compact. The last drops in the glass showing a volatile balsamic note. In the mouth, this is like the nose – drive to the flavour, relatively narrow – very good texture but no finish to write home about, not much oak showing though. My guess was 2016 – for the combination of concentration and depth of young colour – Côte de Nuits, quite well made – but probably a Bourgogne given the short finish. I was quite shocked when revealed.
Rebuy – No

Despite the hype over this domaine, I’ve not visited Maxime Cheurlin very often at Georges Noellat, despite liking both him and his dog! The main reasons are; 1) I find the wines in elevage too oaky for my palate and 2) given the very long elevage, my normal tasting time simply doesn’t suit evaluating the wines at that time – gas, oak, reduction – you name it. For those reasons I never found a lot of interest in the wines, though bottled wines tasted with him have always been lovely – but this wasn’t and it certainly didn’t warrant the tariff. I offered two different (good!) winemakers the chance to taste the wine – both thought a little volatile, one opined a Bourgogne, the other ‘possibly’ villages – both, like me, got the vintage.

comments are fixed…

By billn on June 20, 2019 #reports

The whole of the last report had a bug – the comments were disabled on all the new reports – it was a mistake that’s just been rectified today in the new report ‘template’ – sorry for that, but all is now good. Note that only subscribers get to see the comments in the reports, that is until the reports are visible to all after a couple of years.

yesterday and today – a mélange!

By billn on June 19, 2019 #travels in burgundy 2019

Just a few things that happened…

monday night treats

By billn on June 18, 2019 #degustation

A quiet night out in Beaune:

2017 Jean Chartron, Bourgogne Chardonnay Clos de la Combe
A precise and perfect example of how good 2017 can be. A nose of fine and inviting limestone citrus. A palate of drive and energy – mineral but zero harshhness – salivating, mouth-watering for the next sip – the bottle was gone in short order. Simply excllent wine!
Rebuy – Yes

2014 Cécile Tremblay, Bourgogne La Croix Blanche
Plenty of colour. A wild nose – almost textured with whole-clusters and still some reduction. The palate is just the same – more rasping texture and an unswerving, never diminishing reduction – a wine that’s certainly showing some rusticity of texture today, too. This was essentially a wine that I enjoyed without ever admiring. My experience of such wines is that they will be super in 5 or 6 years but for now, perhaps, I’d look elsewhere.
Rebuy – Maybe

2000 G Roumier, Bonnes-Mares
Faintly animale, a nose with lively freshness, and a growing complexity of dried fruits – on one hand, a little tight but on the other, such an invitation to drink. Bright, pure, dynamic, vibrating with saline, complexly fruited flavour. This could be greater, but not massively – it’s still very much a baby. Great wine that you would never ‘pin’ as 2000, such is the clarity with which the flavour is delivered, but I’d wait 5 years for another – unless forced…
Rebuy – Yes

Domaine René Engel – the sale…

By billn on June 16, 2019 #the market


The view is spectacular from the coffee room of the Hotel Beau-Rivage in Geneva – looking across the ‘bay’ of Lake Geneva – this hotel, long the home of expensive auctions from the likes of Sotheby’s, Christie’s, Antiquorum – is, for today, the home of Baghera.

As previously noted, Baghera have a coup – from my perspective no less of a coup than their large sale of the remaining family stocks of Domaine Henri Jayer – today we are here for the wines of Domaine René Engel, once-more the remaining(?) family stocks of a famous Vosne-Romanée domaine.

I was too young to be a buyer of Jayer when the wines were released, but not so for Domaine René Engel, wines I’d bought from the 1995 vintage; mainly Grands-Echézeaux a) because the price was so reasonable given how delicious the wine was, and b) because my friends bought the domaine’s other wines – so I could drink their other cuvées and they could drink mine!

Of course we lost Philippe far too early – all were shocked – and without any ideas for succession the family sold the domaine to Château Latour (Pinault) for a ridiculously high price – though today that sum seems so cheap – and that was goodbye to Domaine René Engel after the grapes on the vines were sold to Albert Bichot in 2005.


Just a few early thoughts: Today it seemed a smaller gathering in the salesroom – vs the Jayer sale where I was also present – but who knows how many bidders were waiting on the phones. But for a single producer sale of 1,157 bottles in 168 lots with vintages from 1921 to the final 2004 vintage, it seems to me that the family did quite well – the sale totalled 1.8 million Swiss Francs (hammer) “reaching the pre-sale high estimate.”

A taste of the bidding:
Lot 1 – 12x Villages Vosne 2004 – 5,000 swiss francs
Lot 5 – 3 magnums Villages Vosne 2003 – 2,800
Lot 9 – 3 magnums Villages Vosne 2002 – 3,400
Lot 10 – 12x Villages Vosne 2002 – 6,500
Lot 13 – 6x Villages Vosne 2001 – 2,200
Lot 15 – 3 magnums Villages Vosne 2000 – 3,500
Lot 20 – 3 magnums Villages Vosne 1999 – 4,200
Lot 22 – 3 magnums Villages Vosne 1998 – 2,200
Lot 25 – 3 magnums Villages Vosne 1996 – 3,500
Lot 53 – 12x Vosne Brulées 2003 – 9,000
Lot 68 – 6x Vosne Brulées 1999 – 9,000
Lot 69 – 6x Vosne Brulées 1998 – 4,500
Lot 81 – 12x Echézeaux 2004 – 13,000
Lot 81 – 2004 Echézeaux 12 bottles – 13,000
Lot 82 – 2003 Echézeaux 12 bottles – 12,000
Lot 103 – 12x Grands-Echézeaux 2004 – 20,000
Lot 113 – 6x Grands-Echézeaux 2002 – 13,000
Lot 115 – 6x Grands-Echézeaux 2001 – 11,000
Lot 117 – 6x Grands-Echézeaux 2000 – 13,000
Lot 120 – 12x Grands-Echézeaux 1999 – 30,000*
*I stop with this one – just as a placeholder – I bought this en-primeur, in-bond, for £41 per bottle – or 1,130 swiss francs for 12 as was the exchange rate in those days – nice that I found 6 in the cellar last year, but this 26 times growth of value pales when compared to that of Apple stock over the same period – that’s why wine’s for drinking, not speculating: “A mere $100 investment in the company’s stock at the beginning of 2002 would have grown to more than 95 times the original investment by mid-February 2019

flowering – still much to do…

By billn on June 11, 2019 #vintage 2019

I did a little touring in the Côte Chalonnaise and the Côte de Beaune yesterday, and all these images of flowering vines that have been on Instagram and Twitter for the last 10-12 days tell only a small part of the story.

The Côte Chalonnaise has some precocious areas where the flowering is close to finished – but generally, we are not yet half-way through. In Bouzeron the aligoté is further behind – some parts not yet having started flowering – even the east-facing parts, and certainly not the west-facing!

The Côte de Beaune is pushing a little more, but most places seem more mid-flowering than finished – those latter areas, like in the Chalonnaise are the most precocious, but far from common. So the heavy rain of the weekend and even some light rain on Monday was unwelcome but sometimes it’s like that!

We will have to wait for the proper fruit-set in another 1-3 weeks to have the best idea on yields after the spring frosts…

Burgundy Report

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