So when a 15 year-old Beaujolais Nouveau is too excruciatingly corked, where to turn? Well, the first wine didn’t pass the test!

1999 Jean-Claude Belland, Santenay 1er La Comme
It’s ages since I had one of these – this might even be that last – all bought on release. Yuk! I might have some tolerance for a subtle hint of brett, but here is a wine that just reeks of it – it doesn’t taste better either – down the sink…
Rebuy – No

1998 Bruno Clair, Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er La Dominode
What a relief – clean, bright, complex and with fine focus – what a lovely nose! In the mouth there’s a nice direct line of flavour that’s perfectly melded with the acidity. The tannin is virtually nothing to talk about, but the waves of complex flavour are – just excellent – very, very yum! Another great 98…
Rebuy – Yes