Last time I opened one of these – which was easily 10 years ago – it was that rare wine that was completely closed for business; in every respect you would have found more enjoyment in a Bourgogne Rouge. Let us have another try…

1996 René Engel, Grands-Echézeaux
Tending to a watery rim, but the colour remains saturated at its core. Very, very understated though deep aromas of soil, graphite and a faint spice – and you have to swirl to find those! In the mouth this wine is still a baby; it’s intense with a quickly growing base of tannin – the acidity also grows quickly, focusing the intensity, though also offering that faintly metallic aspect that is common in 96s. The mid-palate slowly leaches some sweetness of fruit onto your tongue. The flavour lasting very long in the finish. There remains high potential here, but I’m thinking the best part of another decade is needed to achieve it.
Rebuy – Yes