I wasted quite a lot of this wine in its youth: Actually, I didn’t waste any in its first flush of youth when it was just a consistently gorgeous wine, I wasted bottles between its 3rd and 10th birthdays, when the wine was often sullen and typically without charm. It looks like things are now starting to turn around!

1999 JF Mugnier, Chambolle-Musigny
The colour remains quite deep. Aromatically this has the cushioned, brown sugared (oak!) sweetness of fruit that, for so long, has been missing in action. After half an hour it has tightened and is less pretty – more herbal – so we are still some way from peak drinking. Round in the mouth, the tannin still offers a hint of astringency, but it’s quite smooth for all that. Understated concentration and perfectly balancing acidity. The finishing note is redolent of that initial hit of sweet brown sugar aroma. A wine you should still wait for, but one that is starting to show promise.
Rebuy – Yes