2009 Chandon de Briailles, Volnay 1er Caillerets
On first opening, this is a lithe, tight, linear and slightly glossy thing – supermodel proportions – though in a ‘look but don’t touch’ vernacular (typical for the genre!). Time in a decanter will help you get to know this supermodel; the sulking, pouting approach to communication is replaced by confidence and complexity – it’s simply super. Finally we have just a stunning array of precise berries on the nose, the occasional suggestion of a flower-petal and even some dried currants as bass notes. For a 2009 this is rather linear with a crystalline minerality – whatever else I’m drinking, I’m drawn back to this wine. Pop-and-pour and you will never the meet the personality behind the wine, but a little preparation will give you the chance to curl up with a supermodel!
Rebuy – Yes like a shot…

This Volnay was part of a contract of Chandon’s which unfortunately has now lapsed – so no more of this wine – that said, they might anyway have struggled to find enough grapes to fill a barrel in 2012!