leclerc’s 2002 griotte

By billn on May 16, 2019 #degustation

2002 Chézeaux/René Leclerc, Griotte-Chambertin
The extra-long cork comes out with a satisfying pop, but the end of the cork doesn’t smell nice – I’m anticipating brett or similar – drat – I have at least a couple more of these made by Leclerc plus two or three from Ponsot of the same vintage. I think of Leclerc as making better wines in 02 than today, fortunately the cork couldn’t have been more misleading – this turned out really well!
The nose – well there’s a toasty oak-style reduction here, but essentially this clean, attractive, wine with a bloody iron impression to good fruit. The smoky reduction is on the palate too – but it’s a palate of good energy and even nicer fruit with a lovely energy – you could drink this way too quickly! Less than half a bottle makes into day 2 (I was the only one drinking this) and the reduction – both aroma and taste – are gone. The freshness is still there and the aromas haven’t developed anything unwanted. The intensity is good and there’s a nice cushioning. This is holding up very well – exceedingly tasty wine – I’m now happy that I have more!
Rebuy – Yes at the old price!

‘the magnificent seven’ – the measly montrachet 2016 follow-up

By billn on May 15, 2019 #the market#vintage 2016

I gave you this update, almost 1 year ago. Finally there is something concrete:

600 bottles are to be distributed, though some will be kept back by the domaines. Wax-topped, in special presentation boxes and all will wear the same label: “L’Exceptionelle Vendange des Sept Domaines“. It’s unsurprising, given that they had to take out a négoce licence so as to do the elevage, that all this work is being undertaken by the Domaine Leflaive, despite that their name is not on the label – but it’s the same level of anonymity for all the seven owners who contributed grapes.

The domaines and their distributors were tasked with picking suitable names from their client lists – to honour those chosen, with the possibility to buy a bottle. I haven’t received a letter – not yet anyway!

And the price? As always, if you need to ask… But just entre-nous, €5,500 the bottle when exported – or €6,600 including French tax. That’s nearly double the price, for those on the list, of a 2016 Romanée-Conti. Keep an eye out for your letter…

Oh, and what do you guess – cork or DIAM? 😉

starting the week with…

By billn on May 15, 2019 #degustation

1995 Jean Grivot, Nuits St.Georges 1er Roncières
Plenty of colour here – of-course colour with some age! The nose is forward, pepper-spiced and even a little creosote to this complex and inviting whole – clean though, there’s no brett. Nice volume in the mouth, still with some tannin but the sweetness of fruit is the perfect foil for that – strawberry-fruited long flavour – ooh that’s good – fine freshness and involving, tasty flavour and ready now! I have a general feeling of respect for this domaine, but rarely do I find the wines delicious – but this one is – and it only needed 24 years! This drank effortlessly well over 2 days.
Rebuy – Yes

offer of the day – 2016 de montille…

By billn on May 14, 2019 #the market

VINS ROUGES*
Beaune 1er Les Sizies 2016 75cl 53.55 (Swiss Francs)
Beaune 1er Les Grèves 2016 75cl 71.55
Volnay 1er En Champans 2016 75cl 107.10
Volnay 1er Taillepieds 2016 75cl 112.50
Corton Clos du Roi 2016 75cl 139.50

VINS BLANCS
St.Romain 2016 75cl 32.85
Meursault 1er Poruzots 2016 75cl 80.10
Puligny-Montrachet 1er Champs Gains 2016 75cl 80.55
Corton-Charlemagne 2016 75cl 134.10

*A similar pre-listing offer from the same Swiss merchant that offered the Château de Puligny wines – like before, after this ‘introductory offer’ the prices will be higher! Another late offer of the frost affected 2016 vintage.

Note that these prices include Swiss purchase tax.

week 19, 2019 – the weekend wines…

By billn on May 13, 2019 #asides

weekend wines

A weekend in Beaune – just a few things that fell to hand 😉

2017 Vaudoisey-Creusefond, Bourgogne Côte d’Or Pinot Noir
It’s far from a deep colour – though too dark for a rosé – but it’s a vibrant colour. The nose is like cordial but fresh and inviting – quite some volume of aroma for so modest a colour. Likewise in the mouth the flavour is forward, almost a crunch to the jammy fruit experience – but fresh and moreish. Gotta say, delicious if a little non-standard in style. Definitely yum!
Rebuy – Yes

2011 Alex Gambal, St.Aubin 1er Murgers Des Dents du Chien
I’ve never yet experienced an oxidised or even an advanced wine from this producer, but here is certainly some obvious age.
The colour is rather deep, and whilst there is some modest aromatic development, it’s more a nose that’s (over!) full with caramel-vanilla oak – a very sweet nose – not my favourite. Fortunately in the mouth there’s a lovely drive to this wine – very fine acidity – the wine is fresh, wide and mineral in the middle – fine – but the finish reflects the nose with a sweet caramel finish that I don’t like. It’s showing well though.
Rebuy – No

2002 Nicolas Potel, Vosne-Romanée 1er Aux Malconsorts
Plenty of depth to the colour – much more than the 2017 – but clearly there’s some age going on here. The first nose (from opening) shows a little brett, but with aeration it’s clearly volatile as it fades. The palate doesn’t show it in any overt manner; nice volume in the mouth, layers of fresh, complex, and energetic flavour – ooh that’s super. The mid-palate has excellent depth of flavour and there’s real depth and length to the finishing flavour too. Ooh this is so good – given time the nose is relatively appealing – the flavour is, however, non-stop super!
Rebuy – Maybe

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