fourrier clos st.jacques – a triumph of hope over experience (part deux)

5.8.2010billn

fourrier-csj-2004

So, really a triumph in one way – I don’t find a bit the 2004 character – but it’s far from a great Fourrier CSJ. That said, at this age you have every reason to expect a wine to be rather tight, and this isn’t. Just the acidity and tannin in the finish are slight niggles, and there is a slightly monolithic mid-palate impression that makes me think to 1994 – though I hope not. Still, nothing green, it smells great and it’s a wine you can drink today!

2004 Fourrier, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Clos St.Jacques
The wine is quite darkly (medium-plus) coloured – though far from young in shade, most 02s still look younger. The nose starts in that awkward slightly toasty oak way that Fourriers (to my bemusement) often do – they don’t see that much new wood, particularly the toasted type – I think it is reduction that needs to blow off. Less than 5 minutes in the glass and the oaky character is gone, now we have a deep, quite dark impression and a hint of cream gone lactic – it’s a hint so it’s still nice – a slight suggestion of dry forest leaves before a fruit note builds from the core, the fruit becomes ever-more prettier. In the mouth this has a silken texture and a concentration that builds as you head into the mid-palate. Initially I find the acidity not quite seamless – I’ll wait a little, hoping for either my palate or the wine to come together. The almost absent tannin only starts to reveal itself as a late bitter component in the mineral finish. The balance improves with food but I find the mid-palate flavours a little lumpen – smells great though.
Rebuy – Maybe

Agree? Disagree? Anything you'd like to add?

There is one response to “fourrier clos st.jacques – a triumph of hope over experience (part deux)”

  1. Rick Dalia6th August 2010 at 2:47 amPermalinkReply

    Hi Bill, this post is my cue to solicit some sage advice from those who can help. I’ve got just one bottle each of the ’95 and ’96 Forrier CSJ and I’m obscessing over which and when to open. Got them at auction. Any thoughts?

    By the way, I’m going ’04 first this weekend too, but blanc: Pierre Morey’s village Meursault.

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