Much as I (for some reason) covet a wax-sealed bottle, they are certainly messy when it comes to extracting the cork. If you haven’t seen them, Nicolas Potel’s new domain have red or yellow wax that only half covers the cork, and the top wines (and magnums) of L&A Lignier have a cool, dark brown wax seal.

As I start this operation, the corkscrew obviously starts to rip the cork so the ‘ah-so’ comes to a perfect rescue – well, only perfect if you can clean up the mess of chipped wax before the domestic management arrives on the scene!

1986 Confuron-Cotetidot, Clos de Vougeot
Medium, medium-plus colour. The first sniff will weaken your knees, such is the depth of dark macerated cherry and baking plums padded with earth. Like the last two 86s I’ve opened, here is a wine that seems excellently balanced – the acidity is good – yet it’s not refreshingly moreish, it doesn’t beg you to take another sip, all have somehow seemed acid-shy when they’re not – strange. The texture is silky before a fine but astringent tannin starts to take over. A high-toned fruit expands across the mid-palate before very slowly lingering – it’s a high-quality finish. This is a wine of power and still some aspect of youth, it’s a bit of a cliché to say ‘austere’ but there is still something of that about it – am I allowed to say a 24 year-old wine is too young? – the nose suggests more today than the full package actually delivers. I’m in no rush to open the last two bottles…
Rebuy – Yes